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gull wing
09-22-2011, 04:57 PM
I want to thank you all for the help you've given me. I've ask a lot of questions and the answers were all helpful.
My kiln came in and I'm happy with it. I've actually done two blades. To get the feel of things, did some test HT with some blanks of steel. Most helpful!
My folder blades came out in good shape with no warps and needed only a little sanding to get them into using shape. This is a lot better than waiting 2 - 3 weeks from a heat treater.

Again Thanks!

sambino
09-26-2011, 05:18 AM
Please be patient with this one I am new...................so if not mistaken one can make the blank stock removal, then HT and then finished and sharpened with no need of a forge ? If so for example how do I know the temperature and for how long I ht the blank is there a guide or something similar that tells us how it goes for each type of steel?
PS By the way congrats on you kiln

franklin
10-02-2011, 07:49 PM
yes you can stock removal, then heat treat without a forge, and with stainless you will want to use a kiln not a forge. if your useing a forge start out with 1084 theres lots of info on heat treating it here and tracy has a sheet on usa knifemakers for heat treating the different kinds of steel,or you could send to peters heat treat awsome guy and heat treater.gullwing congrats on a good heat treat great feeling isnt it.

Doug Lester
10-02-2011, 08:55 PM
Sambino, you're in Spain if I remember a previous post from you. You will have to look up the American equivalents of European designators. Possibly someone elso on this board can help you with that if you don't have a source. Maybe they might even know of a heat treater over there in the Eurozone and save you some shipping costs. If you google up something like "heat treating knives" you could see what you can come up with or even search this board. Ed Caffrey has reciently given a good method for heat treating 5160 which is a spring steel with about 0.15% chromium and 60 points carbon. Other tool and spring steels with less than 77 points of carbon will heat treat about the same though you will have to experiment a little to arive at the tempering temperatures. The simpler steels with more than 77 points of carbon need about 5-10 minutes of soak time with the temperature just a little above non-magnetic before the quench. Stainless on other air quenching steels probably need a controled and regulated high temperature kiln that can heat to 800 degrees C. to austinize the steel and possibily a little lower to temper. That's why many makers who use stainless steels and some of the other air quenching steels prefer to send them to a professional heat treater.

Doug