View Full Version : WIP -- 1st knife from scratch

11-26-2010, 04:45 PM
well, after I did my first kit knife, I thought I would bite the bullet and try to build a knife completely from scratch. I realized a lot of you guys have been doing it for years. I thought I would post this for the newbies like me, the experts out there can point out better ways of doing things, and everyone can watch along the way.

Here are 3 designs I came up with. I drew it up in paintshop. I wanted something I could use deer/elk/hunting/in-the-woods knife.

I'm currently liking design "B". It doesn't have quite so much of a tanto type point.
OAL: 9"
Blade length (tip to bolster) 5"
3/16 O1 steel.

I selected O1 so that I can attempt to heat treat it myself.


Thoughts? Comments?

11-27-2010, 03:20 PM
So, I got the steel in. 18" of O1 from Jantz. It had a nice oil film on it. I cleaned it off with some elcheapo laquer thinner. Then, started to put the pattern on it using a sharpie fine point marker.




11-27-2010, 03:23 PM
So, I cut the pattern a part, and drew the outline of the knife on the steel.



Next step will be to drill around the outline. Probably 3/8". Then, take a hacksaw and "connect-the-dots" of the drill holes. The problem is that I currently don't have a drill press. A buddy says he's got one, but hasn't used it in years. He said it may be a bit sloppy. I'll see how it goes. I might be able to try this tomorrow. We'll see.

11-27-2010, 03:33 PM
btw, when I'm drilling the outline, I'm also planning on drilling the bolster pin holes and 3/16" Mosaic pin hole.

For bolster pins I'm using 5/32" brass stock (I'm going to make Brass Bolsters). What size drill bit should I use?

What size drill bit should I use for the 3/16" mosic pin hole?


Rudy Joly
11-27-2010, 07:20 PM
For each hole use that size bit, if the pins don't fit, sand the pins until they fit snug in the hole.
Chances are, if the press is sloppy the pins will slide right through. If that's the case, be generous with your epoxy when glueing everything up. When drilling the blank make sure it's clamped securely to the table or in a vise, larger bits tend to grab and helicopter the blank right out of your hands and it hurts like heck. B is a nice design, good luck.


11-27-2010, 08:06 PM
B is a nice design. Connect the dots and lots of file work?
Keep us posted.

11-27-2010, 08:47 PM
Thanks for the encouragement. It will all be by hand (no grinder). I'm looking forward to learning, and tips from the pros along the way.

11-27-2010, 09:50 PM
You don't need a drill press. You can use a hand drill. Just drill one or two holes and use screws to fasten it to a scrap piece of wood.

You may have seen this but just in case look at this: http://knifedogs.com/showthread.php?317-Absolute-cheapskate-knife-making-tutorial-by-Jonesy&highlight=cheapskate

11-28-2010, 07:14 PM
So, today I went to use my buddy's drill press. The drill press hasn't been used in ages. It doesn't work. Don't know what was wrong with it. Oh well.

I had planned on going over there, taking my time, doing my layout stuff, etc..

didn't work out.

So I left there, and ran into an old friend. He happened to have a drill press. We went out to his garage. This guy is a classic tinker. You don't want to accidently trip on anything. You will be impailed by something laying on the floor (if you can actually see the floor).

I told him what I was doing. I wanted to drill an outline of holes along the tang, then use a hacksaw to connect the dots.

"What? No way. I have a way better idea."

Which he did. He reaches into a pile of corded power tools, and pulls out a portable band saw. He clamps it into a vise and says "cut away".

So, here is a picture of cutting out the knife.


Then, as I started cutting out the knife, I realized I wanted to cut the hole where the pluge cut will be.

So, using his drill press, I cut a 5/32 hole by the plunge cut.


Back to the band saw of death.
Clamped in a vise, with a screwdriver wedged into the trigger, which holds it in place.


Of course I was a little hesitant with using the saw, and I ended up being a little to agressive with it. I took a notch out that I shouldn't of. It will come back to haunt me during the filing process.



On to the drill press.

11-28-2010, 07:27 PM
I was a little rushed. Another mistake I made. Yesterday, I should have taken my time, and laid out all the holes where I wanted to drill, and then punched them.

Instead, I had to just eye ball them, and punch them in the shop here. I don't like how sloppy everything ended up being.

Drilling the bolster hole with a 5/32 bit.

Bolster hole drilled. Drilled a 3/16" hole for the mosic pin. Center punched all the places I will drill to remove tang weight.

Finished drilling all the holes with 3/16" bit. Now I'm about to drill some of the holes out with a 5/16" bit to remove move metal.

All done drilling.

If I do something like this again, I think I might drill out a guide/pattern of holes in some sheet stock. Just a flat piece of steel, maybe 1/16" thick. Have a clean pattern of holes, maybe 1/16" in dia. Then, I could overlay that pattern over the tang, and center punch the holes I want to drill. Then, it won't be so sloppy. Heck, I could even do it out of a small square of spacer material.

11-28-2010, 07:50 PM
Done drilling for now.

Time to do some filing. I've got the knife clamped in a vise. Using a b4stard file, I start on the spine of the tang. I first start filing using a "straight filing" technique. However, I switched to draw filing. I never did that before. I've just always straight filed whenever I needed too. Draw filing really gave me a clean edge. I would only do about 2 swipes per section on the file, and I would have to clean it.

Filing along the back of the tang.

Flip the knife over, and underside of the tang.

Time to start working on the blade edge. This required a lot of draw filing, as I had a few waves I needed to take out. I straight filed some of the humps down, and then would draw file.

On to the point where I was too worried about the losing my fingers in the bandsaw of death, and ended up taking out too much metal.

15min later of draw filing.

Another angle.

Done filing at this point.

The other side.

Time to think about the next step. Which will probably be the plunge cut.

I think I'm going to try and get to walmart, and pick up some chalk for filing. I've never used chalk before. I'm assuming I could just get some kid's sidewalk chalk. Fill up the file, and then start removing metal for the edge.

11-28-2010, 08:48 PM
2 more views of holding the knife for perspective.



11-29-2010, 12:48 AM
Looks great up to now, can't wait to see it complete.

11-29-2010, 07:16 AM
Lookin good.

11-29-2010, 07:43 AM
can't wait to see it complete.

Me too!! :-)

11-30-2010, 10:51 AM
Looks great so far!
I'm following along, kinda like a tutorial.:)

11-30-2010, 10:57 AM

I wasn't able to work on it yesterday, but hopefully should be able to get some filing done tonight.

11-30-2010, 11:28 AM
so, in prepping for filing tonight, I scribed the edge line.

I used a red sharpie (what I had available) to color the edge.

I took an undersized drill bit (by 1/32), and ran it along the knife edge. I then flipped the knife over, and ran it against the edge again. This should give me an edge that is 1/16" thick (if I file correctly).

The lighting wasn't that great, but here are some pics.

Scribing the line

A pic of the edge with the lines.

11-30-2010, 10:10 PM
well, started working on the plunge cut.

I happened to have a flaring tool that I picked up from a pawn shop. I used that as a guide.

I used a chainsaw file for my plunge cuts. I started on them. I started on the left side of the knife first. I sorta screwed up, as I dropped the chainsaw file a little too much, and scratched the knife above the plunge cut (all the way to the spine). You can see it on some of the photos.

Attaching the guide

Starting the plunge cut

Son of a !#$@#$ I took the plunge cut too far

A closeup

Starting the other side

Other side done

Showcasing my screwup. Knife is attached to a 2x4. Ready to start filing to create the edge.

12-01-2010, 06:57 AM
well, started filing.

wow, this is going to take a while. 3/16 is a lot of metal to remove. Here are some pics from filing. Had to quit for the night. Won't be able to work on it again until tomorrow.

Straight Filing the edge. I wanted to break it down to the pre-HT thicknesss.

Some more straight filing

Drawfiling, but pushing from tip to bolster.

More Draw Filing
(I wonder how a japanese SEN would work?)

Done for the night.
More filing to do next time.

12-01-2010, 07:18 AM
I would appreciate any tips from the pros out there for good filing techniques. Especially on how to keep the file straight, from edge to spine. I want a nice bevel.


12-01-2010, 03:12 PM
I'm thinking ahead to doing some filework on the tang.

I'm looking for any suggestions on tutorials or other designs I could try.

Also, what do you practice on for filework? Any suggestions? I guess I could try on the other 1/2 of the bar of the O1 I have, but I really didn't want too.

Any suggestions?


12-02-2010, 09:27 PM
got to work on the knife some more.

I finished up the left side.

I wish I would have taken a better picture of the blade thickness.


12-02-2010, 09:29 PM
started filing on the right side of the blade.

First I started to break it down to the final edge thickness.

17582 17583

12-02-2010, 09:32 PM
Once I had the edge thickness where I wanted it to be, I started draw filing it. I was pushing the file (rather than pulling it towards me).

17585 17584

12-02-2010, 09:35 PM
As I'm draw filing, I'm pushing the file.

Here is a pic of the magnetic metal filings that I'm pushing into the bolster area, and are creeping down the 2x4 that I have the knife screwed into.

17587 17586

12-02-2010, 09:37 PM
total time so far on this side: 1.5hrs

Still have more filing to go.

17589 17588

Rick O'Shea
12-03-2010, 04:23 AM
Keep Going! Looks good. Yeah, it is difficult to resist the temptation to work fast.

Use a T-Square/ metal ruler to check how flat you're filing.
I like to use markers blue or color in the metal above the file line with a sharpie - it stops me filing too high
I've filed too high on my plunge line just about every time! Welcome to the club!
The other club I belong to is filing too low on the blade and messing up the edge, so keep an eye on that.
The only other advise for draw filing I was given is not to stoop over your work and eyeball it like you're identifying a new inspect species.....stand up tall and straight and make sure the file is level with every stroke. A see-sawing action is going to create more work later when you try to get everything nice and flat.

I look forward to the end result.

12-03-2010, 06:41 AM

12-04-2010, 03:51 PM
got to do some more filing today. Today was clean up day. Try and get a straight file down.

I used a blue sharpie to color the blade. I then use chalk on a b4stard file, and then switched to a smooth file. I used chalk to prevent the teeth from clogging up. Here's how it went.

blade colored blue

Taking down a high spot

File with chalk

12-04-2010, 03:56 PM
some scratches that will need to come out.

deeper ones are from the b4stard file, where I wasn't cleaning it enough times.

Eventually I would clean it every 2-3 swipes.


A closeup

After some sanding. This is 50grit emery cloth. Each time I change grit, I change direction.

12-04-2010, 04:03 PM
I flipped the knife over (can't remember why, maybe just to look at it).

I started sanding on this side. I took it all the way to 600grit

After I draw filed, i switched directions, and sanded with 50grit

Changing directions, sanding with 150grit

Going to 400 (you can see some of the 150grit scratches)

Another view

After more sanding

I tried wet sanding with some WD40 and 600 grit

Camera wasn't quite in focus, but I tried to show the reflection.

12-05-2010, 01:11 PM
looks good brings back good times i think what i found helps me is whatever you wrap your sandpaper around make sure its flat and does not flex i would start with 100 grit and do circles then allternate in a x pattern then go to next grit 150/220/320/400/600

12-05-2010, 03:32 PM
yeah, I started with a paint stirring stick. But, I eventually switched to just wrapping the file in the sand paper.

12-06-2010, 02:27 PM
Try wet sanding with some mobile one oil I think it will work much better for you than WD40. Looking good

12-06-2010, 09:15 PM
didn't know that about Mobile 1. Will have to try it.


12-07-2010, 06:31 PM
Lookin good, I'm in the same process with a knife I'm making. Can be frustrating at times. But in the end I think its worth it.

12-07-2010, 10:01 PM
got to work on the knife tonight. Tonight was cleanup. My goal was to extend one of the plunge lines to match the other side. Make them more evenn. This meant using a file, and going to back to deep scratches. Then, I had to go back to 50grit, to 150grit, to 220, to 400 to 600grit. I finished with 600grit.

Here's one side.

Extended the plunge line, and cleaned it up.

This side after 600grit (wrapped around a file).

12-07-2010, 10:04 PM
flipped the knife over, and started on the other side.

Starting point

I started with 150, rotated and went to 220, rotated and went to 400

Here it is after 400.
17877 17878

12-07-2010, 10:07 PM
final pics after 600.
17883 17882

17881 17880

Going to wrap the blade in tape to protect it. Next to work on some filing on the spine.

12-08-2010, 01:09 PM
I'm thinking about heat treating this O1 knife. I had planned on attempting it myself.

However, I'm wondering if I might be able to get some help.

I'm currently living between Evansville, IN (1hr away) and Louisville KY (also 1hr away). I'd also be willing to drive 1hr south to Bowling Green, KY, or an hr north into Indiana.

Are there (or does anyone know of any) knifemakers in the area that might be able to heat treat it it for me?

feel free to PM me,if you don't want to post.

thanks a bunch!


12-08-2010, 08:03 PM
found this little gem for $75!

Supposedly it was only used twice!

However, I'm still planning on finishing everything by hand...just to say I did it.

1hp 2x42

One thing that I really like, is that this is the 1hp model. I don't think sears makes this anymore (all they seem to carry are the 1/3hp model).

Now, I need to figure out what belts I need.

12-08-2010, 08:16 PM
Wow, great find! It looks like an older version of the new 2" x 42" grinder that I just bought. The belt dimensions might actually be on the back of the belt.

12-16-2010, 04:28 PM
Good design, Looks well done, but, just how do you expect to HT the 01 steel? Without an oven, or other controlled temperature heat source, you will not be able to. Properly that is. 01 is not receptive to a simple heat and quench process. Just my humble opinion, but it would seem that you put more research into the mechanical and design aspect of making a knife, but not enough, if any, into research in the HT process, or steels that you might acually be able to HT well yourself. By your posts, you are more concerned with the looks of of your knife, which appears very promising, but not the potential performance of it. This is your first, and you seem more concerned with mosaic pins than with how this knife will hold up under use. You will find that it is best to learn to walk, before planning a long distance run. Before you feel chastised, or belittled in any way, I have been there. Concentrate more on which steels would work best for your circumstances. You already seem to have a natural talent for design. Slow down, and research.

12-16-2010, 05:19 PM
Thanks for the kind words, and the positive critism (sp?).

I had found a tutorial on heat treating O1 with a 1 brick forge. I had planned on doing that. Worst case scenario, I was going to send it off. However, as luck would have it, I got a phone call from a knifemaker of 30yrs. He invited me over to his shop next Tue. He does everything in house, from simple heat treat, to cryo. I'm trying not to get too excited about it! wow. I just can't believe it!

12-17-2010, 01:18 AM
great work! gotta love WIP

12-18-2010, 08:31 PM
been out sick + bad schedule. Finally, back to the knife.

Well, one thing you don't do, is drop a knife on a concrete floor.


different angle

5min later, draw filing with a smooth cut file.

12-18-2010, 08:35 PM
so, I decide I want to do some filework on the tang.

First thing I do, is blue the spine with my handy-dandy
blue sharpie.

I then mark off 7.5mm lines. Well, as close as I can with my steel
rule (I don't have a caliper).
Basically, I marked off 1.5cm, and then split it in 1/2.

12-18-2010, 08:38 PM
so, every 1.5cm, I use a triangular needle file to start a cut. (I can tell I need glasses because the line is a little fuzzy).

I then use a round needle file to open it up a bit.

12-18-2010, 08:42 PM
I open it up a but more.

I then use a small chainsaw file (I think it's a 5mm or 6mm) to open it up some more.

I then use a regular (much bigger) chainsaw file to really open it up. My goal is to open it up, within 1mm of the other side.

wow...I need to use glasses. I can't believe how much more detail I see with these photos. I couldn't see this good working on it.

12-18-2010, 08:44 PM
I definitely need to slow down. You cannot be in a rush to do this.

I screwed up, and took the opening across the tang. ouch.

I think I need to use glasses.

12-18-2010, 08:49 PM
triangle needle file

round needle file

open it up

12-18-2010, 08:50 PM
I eyeball a diagnal line between the 1/2 rounds.


12-18-2010, 08:52 PM
I then use a square needle file to open up a 1/4 line from each side.

12-18-2010, 08:54 PM
wow...this looks much better without my glasses. I didn't realize it was this rough. I thought I was done, but now that I see these photos, I see I need to clean this up a bit more.



I'll have to do this next week some time. Won't be able to work on the knife until then. But, I still have some more photo's coming.

12-18-2010, 08:57 PM
so, I decide I want to do some checkering where my thumb will be.

I use a checkering file to add some in. For a slightly different look, I put in 2 checked sections.

What do you think?



12-18-2010, 09:00 PM
I didn't like the balance point of the knife. It was actually behind the bolster area. I decided to drill more holes, and to then counter-sink the holes with a bigger bit.




12-18-2010, 09:00 PM
well, almost ready for HT. I need to clean up my tang filework.

Any thoughts? Anything I missed? If all goes well, I should have this HT'd next week. yaaaa!

12-20-2010, 06:46 PM
Looking good so far. I like your filework design, that's pretty cool. Keep it up!

12-21-2010, 06:40 AM
Nice work. I am watching with great interest as I am about to embark on the same journey you are on. I am looking forward to the final outcome.

12-21-2010, 09:13 AM
Looks great to me! I really like that filework pattern too!

12-21-2010, 05:21 PM
looks great just 1 word of advise i think every maker will agree with me on is keep it !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! DONT SELL OR GIVE IT AWAY YOU WILL REGRET IF YOU DO

12-21-2010, 05:58 PM
looks great just 1 word of advise i think every maker will agree with me on is keep it !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! DONT SELL OR GIVE IT AWAY YOU WILL REGRET IF YOU DO

I was actually thinking of giving it to my mom. She loves to gun deer hunt, and she really doesn't have a skinning knife.

12-21-2010, 08:20 PM
yaaaa! I got the knife heat treated. Today was a special treat for me. I was invited over by Ken Coats place.

He invited me over to do the heat treating.

Let me say, this was a great vist. I was humbled by Ken's work, craftsmanship, and a friendly personality.
He opened up his shop to me, to let me look around, and he took the time to explain things to me.
I just can't say enough about how nice he was and the vist.

You can tell he really knows his stuff. I've always had an unwritten rule, that you call tell a craftsman,
by the number of jigs he has around his place. Let me tell you, this guy has it all. He as put his time in.

I'm not big on folders, but just holding his knifes makes me rethink that mentality. wow.

So, while Ken was graciously talking to me, he fired up his evenheat oven to 1450.
He let the knife soak for 10min (or was it 15?), and then quenched in oil.

I still need to temper the blade.

After the knife had cool down, he just touched it with a belt, so that
I would have a shiny surface to watch for straw color while I'm tempering.

Knife after heat treat

handle area

a close-up of the bolster area.

12-21-2010, 08:23 PM
some more closeup shots of the post-heat treat kso.

for those that may have never seen something like this (I hadn't till today).


filework area

an edge shot to show the blade is still straight

12-21-2010, 08:25 PM
I do have one question for you pros out there. If you look real close at the knife, some areas have an orange-peel type surface.

What is that? Here is a pic of what I'm talking about.


12-22-2010, 10:27 AM
Looks like a little decarb,that is common in carbon steels quenched in oil.You will have to grind or sand down a few thou. to get past it,but it should be fine.

12-22-2010, 10:31 AM
Duh:34:I for got your doing this one with files by hand,you should be able to draw file off the decarb and all of a sudden your file will quit biting,that means you have it all cleaned off and can start handsanding toward final finish.

12-24-2010, 08:00 PM
So, I finally got around to tempering the knife. I used a toaster oven I picked up off of craigstlist for $8.

I tempered 2x. 2hr@375F. I let it air cool between each draw.

here's what the knife looks like:


12-24-2010, 08:01 PM
I'm kinda concerned. I would have expected the knife to be more golden (or straw) in color. It's more blue than I expected.

Should I be concerned? Thoughts? Comments?





12-25-2010, 09:26 AM
It should be fine,You need to get an oven thermometer to put in your toaster oven to verify temps,the surface color will vary by traces of oil and contaminants on the blade.
If you had cleaned off all the scale and got it to shiny metal and cleaned it well then it may have gotten to a straw color.

12-25-2010, 11:52 AM
Learn something new every day.


J S Machine
12-25-2010, 06:34 PM
Just noticed this thread and I'm looking on my phone so I can't see everything. Just wanted to say that I think that you are doing a god job and keep up the good work.

12-25-2010, 06:44 PM
Thanks for the kind words and encouragement! They always help.

I'm hoping to get back to the blade tomorrow.

Anyone have any suggestions on sanding down the edge *without* a belt sander? Right now I'm just thinking of wrapping my files in sand paper.

12-26-2010, 10:18 PM
well, holidays are over with, and I got to play with my knife again.

I decided to clean up the knife a bit. I wanted to remove some of the scale and whatnot from the knife after HT.

I swiped the knife down with 220.

tang shot

the other side.

12-26-2010, 10:20 PM
Ken touched the blade on his KMG for me, so that I had a clear spot to watch the color during tempering.

this left a little low spot. I had to take it down a bit with the 220.

blade with the low spot

15min later with some 220 and elbow greese.

You will also notice the brass bar stock that is wrapped in the 220. I'm going to use that in a little bit to start my bolsters.

12-26-2010, 10:22 PM
btw, how do I clean up the holes in the tang. Do I have to worry about that? Should I soak the blade in anything?

12-26-2010, 10:26 PM
I'm using 3/16" barstock for my bolsters? Why? I don't know. I thought it sounded good at the time. My blade is 3/16 thick, so I figured thats what the bolsters should be. I'm using a 5/32 for pins.

I decided to cut the pins to be 3/4 of an inch. I figured that would give me enough length, for when I pein them down.

The pins were a bit large. I don't know how much, as I don't have a micrometer. So, I put them them in the drill and sanded them down, until there was a smooth, but snug fit it the knife.

12-26-2010, 10:27 PM
I thought I would go with a curved look in the bolster. I drew it out on the knife.


12-26-2010, 10:29 PM
so, I drilled a 5/32 hole in the bar stock.



12-26-2010, 10:30 PM
so, I dropped a pin in the 1st drilled hole, to keep the hole lined up.

and started drilling the 2nd hole.


12-26-2010, 10:32 PM
both pins are in the barstock and knife.


top view.

12-26-2010, 10:34 PM
measuring the barstock for cutting off the 1st bolster.


cutting with by hand with a hacksaw.

12-26-2010, 10:37 PM
once that was done, i repeated the process for the 2nd bolster.

once the holes were drilled in the 2nd bolter (bar stock), I
put the 1st bolster on top of it, and put the pins through. I drew a line for cutting the bar stock.

both bolsters on the knife.

I outlined what I want the bolter to look like.

12-26-2010, 10:41 PM
i wanted to super glue the bolsters together so I could work on shaping them. My thoughts were to put 3 dabs of glue on one bolster, put the other one on, put the pins though, and squeeze them together..

well, that was the plan.

I squeezed the tube of super glue, and a huge glob came out. I tried wiping it up, but it just smeared it.

I used some acetone to clean it up, and tried again.

A pic of the bolsters glued together, with the pins sticking through. I only hand squeezed them together.
I probably should have used a clamp, but I didn't think of it at the time.

12-26-2010, 10:44 PM
I used a hack saw to start cutting off the excess brass.

1st cut

2nd cut, taking a corner off

cutting the 3rd side.

The hacked pieces, showing what I removed.

12-26-2010, 10:45 PM
I took a b4stard file to the top of the bolsters.

I put it on the knife to get an idea of what it will look like.

I don't know if it is long enough or not. oh well, i might as well keep going since it's already cut.

12-26-2010, 10:48 PM
Sanded with some 220


I then moved to some 600 (forgot to take a pic), and
here it is after 1000.

it's coming along.

12-26-2010, 10:52 PM
i wanted to see what it would look like, if I could polish it up. I've never sanded anything past 1000 before. I had some 4000, 6000, and 8000 handy. Wow, I really liked it. I was surpised how fast it went.

It actually took me longer to be careful with the paper, as I didn't want any grit or chunks to get on it, and scratch the bolster. My fingers were black from handling the black wet dry sand paper. When I switched to the cloth, I tried to be careful.

4000 grit

6000 grit


Another pic of the 8000. I'm actually pretty proud of it.

That's where I stopped for the night. Next time I start working bolster, I'm going to put some tape on this edge end, to protect it. Next, I'm going to start sanding the handle end (where the wood will meet the bolster).

12-27-2010, 08:38 AM
Looking good,carry on.

12-27-2010, 09:01 AM
Thanks! btw, I went to your website, and I really like the smooth, flowing look of your designs. Especially that skinner.

12-27-2010, 12:10 PM
Thank You for the kind words.

01-02-2011, 08:16 PM
been a while since I've been able to work on the knife.

Got to do some wet sanding with 600grit and mobile 1. Nothing major, or exciting.

Extremely boring. I really got to see how poor my sanding techinque is with all the "J"s I kept putting in it.

Here's a pic of the mobile 1, with the 600 grit wrapped around some brass stock (that I used for bolsters).

Speaking of bolsters, I finished working on them. I soaked them in some acetone, and they fell apart (superglue was all disolved).

01-02-2011, 08:19 PM
Taped up the knife, and I decided to fill in the filework.

The plan is to tint the epoxy red. The knife will have green, stabilized scales (I should have taken a picture of them).

Taped knife

Looking at the filework, one last time.

01-02-2011, 08:23 PM
to do this, I taped one side of the filework.

I took a little epoxy

Added a dab of red paint

I filled in the filework, and added a 2nd piece of tape.
This made a little "hot dog" type sandwhich, where the "hot dog"
is the red expoxy between 2 "buns" of tape.

Next time, I should be able to remove the tape, and sand the epoxy smooth (fingers crossed, since I haven done this before). I figure worse case scenario, I soak the knife in acetone and start over.

01-04-2011, 08:04 PM
so, got some time to putz on the knife.

The plan was to sand down the epoxy, and put the bolsters on.

Well, i pulled the tape off. Everything looking good

Started sanding everything down...still looking good

Then, as I got closer to the metal, all the epoxy flaked off.

Any suggestions? Different epoxy? I wonder if the red paint weakened it up that much. Maybe try some different paint?


01-04-2011, 10:40 PM
You thought of gluing the scales and filling in the file-work in one go? It may give you a more rigid bond with another solid surface to bind to.

01-05-2011, 05:46 AM
yes. but, if the glue easily chips out now, it would only be a matter of time before regular use would make the epoxy flake out.

James Terrio
01-05-2011, 06:10 AM
I bet the red paint is interfering with the epoxy curing properly. There is a way to safely pigment the epoxy but I don't remember what to use, seen it in WIPs but never done it. Google it maybe?

For your bolsters, JB weld (the slow-cure kind) is the best I know of for bonding metal-to-metal. Superglue, not so much.

01-05-2011, 07:34 AM
You can get coloring agents for some epoxies - the System 88 Epoxy I'm using has a whole bunch of colors you can get. I agree with James, the paint is interfering with the bond. I also think it's maybe a good idea to do the scales and the filling-in at the same time, as suggested above.

01-05-2011, 08:26 AM
Where do you get T88 at? I've tried finding it before, and no one here carries it.


01-05-2011, 11:20 AM
I got mine at Woodcraft, but you can also buy it online. Woodcraft didn't have any other color pigments than black, but you can order it on System 3's website, or Woodcraft should also be able to get it for you. It really is great epoxy!

01-08-2011, 08:16 AM
Never heard of woodcraft before. Thanks for the tip. I googled them, and found there was a store in Louisville. I was luck enough, that I was in there these past few days, and was able to pick up some bottles.

Thanks a bunch!

01-08-2011, 08:18 AM
sanded the rest of the red epoxy off of the knife.

decided to put the bolsters on. First, I wiped everything down with acetone in prep of using this:

I mixed a bit up (I must be getting sloppy because I could have swore I took more pictures).

and put 1 side on.

After that side was, and the pins through, I put some on the other side.


First mistake I made. I shouldn't have put so much on, near the front of the bolster.

01-08-2011, 08:19 AM
Here is a pic, just before I start to peen the pins down.


And another one.

The one thing I wish I would have had, was a reamer. I wish I could have reamed the holes, just at the outside of the bolsters (maybe 1/16 deep). this would have made them more secure.

01-08-2011, 08:21 AM
So, I start smashing away. I'm using both sides of the hammer.

flat side

round side.

And a pic when I'm done.

I then used acetone to clean everything up, so there wasn't any JBWeld visible.

(wish I would have took a few pics of the bolsters, all the way around)

01-08-2011, 08:21 AM
Just for good measure, I put a c-clamp on the bolsters, and tightened it down pretty good.

Don't know if I dented the bolsters or not.

Looking back on it, I made 2 more mistakes.

a)I should have used a piece of wood when I clamped.

b)I should have looked closer (these pics are actually better than when the knife is in hand). I didn't realize that much JBWeld came out.

Any suggestions on cleaning that up? I know it's going to be pretty hard.
I'm hoping I might be able to take a sharpened wedge piece of wood to scrape it off. Maybe that in conjuction with some acetone.

01-08-2011, 06:53 PM
So, got to work on the knife earlier today.

Took the C-Clamp off. You can see some of the JBWeld that squeezed through.

One side:

The other side:

01-08-2011, 06:54 PM
so, I put the scales on the tang to see how they would line up.

There was a little bow on one of the bolsters, where I didn't sand it flat. screwed up somehow. oh well.

So, I decieded to try and take it down a bit. I colored the bottom side of the bolster (tip of the knife is pointing down in the vice).


And, I gently touched it with a file. Being careful to keep it flat, and only
hit the high spot.


01-08-2011, 06:55 PM
Next pic, shows the scales.

They are green scales. I would like to thank
Mark Farley from It's a Burl

for supplying them. I actually won them from a drawing he had here on the forums. Once I got them from him, I started planning out how I was going to do this (fingers crossed).


Here I'm clamping the scale to the tang. I want to draw an outline, and cut it down.

01-08-2011, 06:55 PM
I also want to use some spacers. I actually want to use them between the tang and the bolsters. The plan is to scribe a line on the spacer material, and bend it up, so that it's at a 90. It sits between the scales and the bolsters/tang.

I don't know yet if I'm going to end up doing that. You will see why in a bit.

So, I trace out the tang

And start cutting it with some tin snips.


One mistake I made. I cut everything too close. I should have left more over hang, all the way around the outline. This would give me more fudge factor. Trying to be cheap, catches up with me in the end.

01-08-2011, 06:56 PM
So, once I have the spacers cut out, I scribe a line. This will be the joint, where the spacer bends up at a 90* angle, against the bolster.

Everything looking good so far

And then I bend it. However, I bend it the wrong direction. I then been it back. Oops.

Now, because I cut the outline too close, I don't have enough material to scribe another line for a 90* bend. I have to cut out a new spacer.

01-08-2011, 06:56 PM
Ok, breathe, breathe...take a breather from the stupidity I just did.

I decide to work on the scale. I hit it with a 9/32 drill bit, to rough it up, so the epoxy has more places to grab between the scale and the spacer. Why 9/32? Just what I grabbed out of the box, because it looked good.


You would swear that the impressions are CNC machined, they look so accurate. lol

01-08-2011, 06:58 PM
Ok, I've never cut stabilized wood before. This is tough stuff. So first I try with this saw.


Yeah, that ain't working....time to think about it some more.

01-08-2011, 06:58 PM
So, I go back, and cut another spacer out. This time it worked ok. Still, I didn't learn from my last mistake. I still cut the spacer too close. I need to leave a little more room next time.

01-08-2011, 06:58 PM
So, back to cutting scales. I decided to try a hacksaw. That worked much, much better. It cuts more like really soft metal, than wood.

Making some cuts down to the outline

Cutting a good sized hunk off

Rough cut outline.

01-08-2011, 06:59 PM
ok, then it hit me. I have to sand this stuff. Plus, I can tell from just a little cutting, this isn't fun to breathe. I borrowed a wood rasp from a buddy. That shapes it really nice.

Filed down with the wood rasp. I'm going to have to get one of these for my 2nd knife.

01-08-2011, 07:00 PM
ok, moment of truth. Time to clue the spacer to the scales. I don't know if I did this right. I really had to do a lot of juggling to even get this close.

I would appreciate some feedback on if I did this correctly.

It wouldn't have been to bad, but I couldn't get that 90* section tight. If I tighted down 1 clamp, it would move just 1/64, and create a gap somewhere. I was lucky in
that I'm usein 24hr epoxy. When I take these clamps off tomorrow, I'm afraid what I
might see. If it's bad, I'm thinking I might just sand off that little 90* spacer section,
which means the scale would be right up against the bolster.

Let me know what you think.


01-08-2011, 07:23 PM
nice pictures. Appreciate the time and effort in getting them here.
Way to go on your first one too1

01-08-2011, 07:36 PM

Taking pictures keeps me honest. I have to think about things (or at least attempt to), because i'm looking for feedback here. I dream about the day when I'm a famous knifemaker, getting $5000 for a blade, and I can look back at this thread and chuckle. ;-)

Although, as long as it's taking me on this one, I don't think I'll ever finish it.

Steven Janik
01-08-2011, 07:43 PM
Why not just cut a small piece of spacer material and glue it to the front of the scale, sand it flush then glue the spacer to the back of the scale? You may just be complicating things too much by bending it.

I think you'll have a much cleaner joint there.

Other than that, I give you a world of credit for what you are accomplishing. Keep up the hard work.

Steve Janik

01-08-2011, 08:22 PM
steve -- I was afraid of a sloppy joint. Hence the bend.

01-09-2011, 09:50 PM
ok, got to spend a few hours on the knife today. I decided I wanted to clean up the bolsters. The last thing I wanted, was to make scales for the bolsters, only to find out something was wrong with the pins.

So, I first started to file down the pins with the B4stard file.

Starting out

A little bit of filing

Some more filing

Almost there


01-09-2011, 09:51 PM
flip the knife over.. Time to file on the other side.


A little more

getting flush

flush. But, I don't like that you can see the pin outline

01-09-2011, 09:52 PM
So, I decide I don't like the pin outline. I figure that when I peened them, I didn't hammer them hard enough.

I decide to try something a little different. I take a punch, and decide, as accurately as possible, I'm going to pound the crap out of the pin. My thinking, is to basically mash that pin, in that hole, as hard as possible.

This is a learning knife after all.

So, after I beat on it for a few times, it looks really crappy. At this point,
I'm holding my breath, saying "ok, what did I just do?!?"

Too late now, time to start filing.

ok, much, much better.

01-09-2011, 09:54 PM
ok, back to the scale I glued up yesterday.

I take the clamps off. Not too bad. I would have liked everything to be a bit tighter, but over all. I give it about a 6 out of 10.

What you don't see, is that there was a little epoxy on the end of the spacer
(this would be between the spacer and the bolster)

I decide I want to clean up the outline a little bit, so I can see exactly what I'm working with.
There was a lot of epoxy that was over hangning. So, I hit it with the wood rasp.

Not to bad (if I say so myself).

01-09-2011, 09:55 PM
so, I decide that I want to remove some of that epoxy off of the end of the spacer. I touch it with the file.

big mistake. I touch it 1 too many times. When I put it back on the knife, I look at the gap, and start to cry. Well, not really, but I'm not happy either.

So, now I'm mad at myself for not going slower. You know that saying "never grind when you are angry?" well, don't file either. I just grab the file, and decide to take that spacer off the end. I was lucky that it turned out ok.

01-09-2011, 09:55 PM
so, I put the scale on the knife, against the bolster. There is a little gap. Nothing too bad, but I can work with it.


Showing the gap a bit more.

01-09-2011, 09:56 PM
so now, I need to mate up the scales with the bolster. Since I don't have a granit block (or even a piece of glass handy, I wasn't able to sand the bolsters totally flat (or square). Now I've got to do the poor mans job, and mate them up.

First, I put the scale on the knife, and draw some lines with my fancy blue sharpie.

Then, I cut a sliver of 220 sand paper, and put it against the bolster.

What I'm going to do, is sand the edge of the scale down. I line up the lines,
and move the scale up and down (not across -- or side to side) the sand paper.
This takes a while, because you are basically sanding about 1/8" or so
(the thickness of the bolster).

01-09-2011, 09:57 PM
Here you can see me moving the scale up and down.

When you look at the sand paper, you can see where most of the scale was touching
(on the right). There isn't much scale dust on the left, because there is a gap there.
I need to keep sanding, until the entire scale is touching the sand paper.

After some more sanding, everything looks relatively even.

And, I put the scale back on the knife. The fit looks better.

01-09-2011, 09:58 PM
If you look in those previous pics, at the top part of the bolsters (the part next to the ricasso) you see a bead of JBWeld that squeezed out. Ok, I need to clean that up.

I decide to take a suggestion, and use a piece of scrap brass to scrape off the bead. It worked really well. I had a piece that was extra from when I cut the bolster. It actually was pretty sharp.

Another shot, to show the wedge.

After some scraping, that bead was gone.

Other side...

Another pic, different lighting.

Thanks for the suggestion guys! That worked out really good. No scratches.

Looks good enough to me. Now, to put one of the handles on.

01-09-2011, 09:58 PM
ok, so I start getting a handle ready to put on the knife. (can I call it a handle yet?).

I take a drill bit (9/32 again), and put some dents in the handle, so the epoxy will have a bit more to grab.


a little cleaner.

01-09-2011, 09:59 PM
ok, now I'm starting to get a little nervous. This is where it is all starting to come together.

I place the handle on the knife, and like the way it looks. Then, I decide, maybe I want to clean up that bolster outine a little more. Bring it closer to the knife profile.

Start filing

Close enough for now. I'm not going to take it down any more.

Time to knock off a few burrs that I created from filing.

01-09-2011, 09:59 PM
Time to do the spine side of the bolsters.

Not really that much to knock off. However, I did make one mistake (ok, more than one, but who is counting).

There was a bit of a burr on the bolster. I knocked it off with the file. What i didn't realize, until it was too late, was that it created a slight gap between the bolster and the scale. It's not noticable until I glue up the handle.

01-09-2011, 10:00 PM
Well, moment of truth. I decide to epoxy one of the handles on. In this instance, I'm going to use some T88 that I picked up from woodcrafters (another great suggestion -- thanks guys!).

I also picked up some pigment. I actually only used a dab. As soon as it touched
the resin, it just got sucked into it, so it looks like I used more than I really did. It doesn't take much.

Also, taking pics is a real pain. I have to be careful, because just a little dab, in the wrong spot, and my wife would neuter me for getting some epoxy on the camera.

I decided to dye the epoxy, because I want to fill in the filework on the spine of the knife.

My original plan was to use red, but woodcrafters didn't have any red pigment in stock, and I wasn't going to be back in town. So, I had to go with black.

Spreading it on the handle

Glued up with a single clamp.

I ended up using a 2nd clamp on it, but forgot to snap a pic of it.

Also, did I use too much epoxy? I figured I should coat the whole handle, but by that time, it started running everywhere.

01-09-2011, 10:56 PM
Lookin' good! Don't worry about too much epoxy - the T88 sands easily, and you should have enough on there to fill in all the holes in the tang in any case. Why did you only glue on the one scale? I find it easier if I do both at the same time.

01-10-2011, 05:11 AM
Great job! I'm looking forward to more pictures.

I'm glad someone mentioned the T88 epoxy, I'm almost out of my el-cheapo stuff and was looking for a good epoxy.


01-10-2011, 06:45 AM
I only put 1 side on, because I have to drill the hole for the pins. If I wouldn't have bolsters, then I would have pre-drilled the pin holes, and glued both of the handles on at the same time.

I didn't feel comfortable, clamping the handles, hoping they wouldn't shift, while drilling pin holes, only to find out there is a gap somewhere when I glued them up.

01-10-2011, 09:48 AM
Makes perfect sense. Are you going to drill the holes, then glue on the next scale, and then drill the second scale? I would think that would be the most accurate way to do it.

@JLaw, T88 is very good epoxy - a little bit pricey, but worth it, IMHO, and very easy to work with.

01-10-2011, 11:46 AM
Makes perfect sense. Are you going to drill the holes, then glue on the next scale, and then drill the second scale? I would think that would be the most accurate way to do it.

Ted that is the way that I do my scales work perfect and there is no misalignment when you do it this way.

01-10-2011, 12:13 PM
Makes complete sense, Pieter. I guess the only downsides are that it takes longer and that the epoxy "rivet"then consists of two parts, which might not be as strong - not that I think that is a significant issue with decent epoxy.

01-10-2011, 12:40 PM
this thread is an emotional rollercoaster! i've been enjoying reading it all

01-10-2011, 03:28 PM
Ted that is the way that I do my scales work perfect and there is no misalignment when you do it this way.


That's the plan!

01-12-2011, 09:31 PM
Forgot to take pics, but I drilled my pin holes through the tang/scale. They were already in the tang, so it was just an exercise of lining up the holes.

I drilled through the opposite scale, and then attached the 2nd scale. I made sure I had enough expoxy to cover my file work.

I let it sit for 24hrs.

01-12-2011, 09:32 PM
Here you can see the holes that came through the first scale that was epoxied to the tang.

Other side, after I took the clamp off.
Note:I'm not worried about clamp impressions *this time*, only because I know I have a lot to sand off. Next time, I will put some wood between the clamps and the scales.

01-12-2011, 09:32 PM
Here I'm drilling through scales for the pin holes.

1st hole

2nd hole

Now you can see all the way through. ;-)

Note:Next time I'm going to put tape on the scale the drill will come through. This will prevent any chipping. I know I have a lot to take off, so I wasn't too worried.

01-12-2011, 09:33 PM
time to break the profile down.

Hitting it with the wood rasp

5min later

getting really close where I'm exposing the tang.

01-12-2011, 09:33 PM
finishing it off with some 220 for now, wrapped around some barstock.

01-12-2011, 09:34 PM
So the next question I have, is about profiling the handle.

Here's what I'm kinda thinking

Are there any tricks out there for you do? Or, do you just start sanding until you get something you like?

01-12-2011, 10:54 PM
I rough out the profile first (the blue lines), and then round the edges until it feels comfortable in my hand. I'm sure one of the more experience makers will chime in here soon.

01-13-2011, 05:22 AM
that's kinda my thinking. I'm going to take the wood rasp, and rough everything out (or is it rough everything in? ). Then, start block sanding.

James Terrio
01-13-2011, 07:54 AM
Yup, that will work.

Tip: next time you need a file or rasp like that 4-in-hand in your pics, buy Craftsman brand ones at Sears. They'll replace 'em when they wear out. I do use Nicholson flat files so I can make blades out of them when they get dull, but I've started getting all my wierd shapes and whatnot from Sears.

01-13-2011, 08:15 PM
Started to shape the handle. I had a brillian idea (famous last words, I know. ;-) ). What I did was cut a piece of paper into a square, that I could lay over the top of the handle.

I then folded it in half. I then cut the curves that I wanted for the handle.

Then, when I unfolded it, I had the same curve on both sides.

I sanded off the previous blue lines I had on the handle, and outlined the new paper cutout.

01-13-2011, 08:15 PM
Time to start breaking the handle down.

Little more profiling

pretty close to being roughed in.

I can see I'm going to need to take more off.

01-13-2011, 08:16 PM
The other side.

showing both sides

done for the night. need to think about this some more.

01-14-2011, 07:29 AM
Looking good!

If I may make a suggestion. Glue (epoxy) your pins in, and shape them with with rest of the handle. In my experience with working with wood and inlays, etc, it produces a smoother transition.

01-14-2011, 09:00 AM
Thanks! Always looking for feedback.

That's the plan. I just want to get closer to my final shape. I didn't want to be constantly raking the pins with the wood rasp. Once I have the shape I want (and after I'm done working with the wood rasp), I'm going to epoxy them in. Then, I'll file the pins down, and finish sanding.

01-14-2011, 01:15 PM
:) Great, my comment was completely in line with what you were planning in any case. I don't use a wood rasp much (I use a file, or the grinder/Dremel), which allows me to glue in the pins at the same time that I put on the scales. Same result in the end, so I guess it doesn't really matter.

Steven Janik
01-14-2011, 02:43 PM
Looks great so far, you are definitely doing this the hardest, and probably most fulfilling, way possible. I would suggest that when you set your pins that you spin them in a drill and use the sharp edge of a file to cut some rings in them to retain some epoxy. Since the original epoxy has fully cured the new stuff will not permeate the old and the pins will be slightly less than 100% effective.

I use a fixture to stack the scales will the pre-drilled blade on top and drill my pin holes through everything at once and when you epoxy everything at the same time, you get a monolithic bond where everything is supportive. If you choose to put your pins in afterward because of the hand rasping I would use a stepped Corby or Loveless style bolt to secure the scales.

Other than that, you should be commended for your hard work and great WIP.


01-14-2011, 05:58 PM
Hi Steve,

Thanks for the kind words. I had planned on doing exactly that. My plan is to put the pins in the drill, rough them up with 150ish emery cloth. Then, take a file and, very gently, cut 3-4 rings in the pins (I already purchased them when I ordered the steel). They are 3/16" shamrock pins. I'm hoping they go along with the green scales.


Steven Janik
01-15-2011, 12:14 PM

Here is the fixture I made to drill through the blade and scales at one time. I also use this to glue up spacer materials.

It also works great to clamp a knife will epoxy sets, but you must use waxed paper so knife doesn't stick to fixture.

These parts are from WOODCRAFT but should be available at any woodworking store.


01-16-2011, 05:15 PM

01-16-2011, 05:16 PM
Kept shaping more of the knife.

Bottom (sorry for the pic being so fuzzy)

Had to take a pic of all the shavings and dust under the knife.

01-16-2011, 05:18 PM
ok, definitely looking better

profile shot

I definitely touched the bolsters more times than I needed too.

01-16-2011, 05:18 PM
decided to clamp the knife to a 2x4 and do some vertical sanding (from end to bolster).

01-16-2011, 05:18 PM
Other side.

ready for pins.

I wanted to get as much work done as possible with the wood rasp, before I put the pins in.

01-16-2011, 05:19 PM
pins were a really tight fit. In fact, I couldn't get the pin in all the way. I put it in as far as I could, and then I marked it,
where I would have enough left over.

01-16-2011, 05:19 PM
Once I had it marked, I pulled the pin back out, and cut it with a hacksaw.

Then, I put it in the drill, and, while it was spinning, hit it with some 50 grit emery cloth.

01-16-2011, 05:19 PM
Then, what I wanted to do, was notch the pin, so the epoxy would have some extra places to grab.

So, using my fancy sharpie, I marked 3 places.

Then, I put the pin back in the drill press, and, again while spinning,
I touched the pin with the hack saw. It gave me 3 nice groves.

01-16-2011, 05:20 PM
moment of truth. No turning back now.

I mixed up the epoxy.

smeared a buch on the pins, and tapped them into place

One pine was nice and clean, another had a gob of epoxy. Oh well, nothing a file
won't fix when it's hard.

01-16-2011, 05:21 PM
24hrs later...
(jeopardy music playing in the background)


01-16-2011, 05:21 PM
Took my smooth cut file, and started filing the front pin down.

back pin

both of them.

01-16-2011, 05:22 PM
took the tape off the bolsters. (Nice job on the battle scars in the bolsters. *yuck*)

Now, I want to try and get the handle flush with the bolsters. Felt like it took hours. Sanded with 150 and 200, to try and flush them up.

this pick doesn't do it justice, but I'm trying to show the unevenness of the handle being higher than the bolster.


01-16-2011, 05:22 PM
After some more 220 sanding, it's much smoother.

01-16-2011, 05:24 PM
other side
gob of hard epoxy.

Both pins

01-16-2011, 05:24 PM
got some more 220 sanding to do. Quite the gap there.

Getting better

Almost there..

And...and...and I forgot to snap a pic of it being done. oops.

01-16-2011, 05:25 PM
ok, then I started getting into finishing the handle.

I got involved with working it down;
400 to 1000 to 4000 to 6000 to 8000.

I totally forgot to take pictures between each step. I was really getting frustrated, because I would find a scrach that I forgot to take out, and then would have to back up a previous step (grit), and start that grit over. I don't think I have any skin left on my thumbs.

I'm kinda miffed at myself that I didn't take pics between grits.

I tried to take an angle shot, to show off the bolter finish.

01-16-2011, 05:25 PM
ok, time to wax it up. I had some Meguires car wax handy.


01-16-2011, 05:25 PM
I can't believe i'm done. I wish I could bring out more of a shine. If anyone has any ideas of what I can do, I'm all ears.


Some more shots of my baby!

01-16-2011, 05:26 PM

close up.

01-16-2011, 05:26 PM
Other side.



01-16-2011, 07:43 PM
B-E-A-utiful! Great job, knife turned out wonderful...


01-16-2011, 07:51 PM
Really Nice Sir,You should be proud.

01-16-2011, 07:54 PM
thanks for the kind words and encouragement.

I almost feel sad that it's over...oh well, time to start another one. ;-)

01-16-2011, 11:30 PM
WOW.... phenomenal job!!! Looks fantastic!

Ronald P. Rochon
01-17-2011, 07:54 AM
Congratulations,taking the "hard Road", paid you off in Spades.Your hard work and diligence has given you depth of hard won victory.I enjoyed your WIP from the start.Nice piece of work,cant wait to see your next! Sincerly, Ron.

01-18-2011, 07:28 AM
That is a nice looking knife, congratulations.

01-18-2011, 07:36 AM
nice job...any shots of the finished filework?

01-18-2011, 07:44 AM
Let me see if I can get something up tonight.


01-18-2011, 09:10 PM
here is a pic of the filework

sorry for the poor lighting.

Carey Quinn
01-19-2011, 03:37 PM
This has got to be the most detailed WIP I have seen and for your first knife, it's been amazing. I have enjoyed seeing how you solved problems and came up with a very nice looking knife. You should be proud and I am proud of you.

Well done,

01-19-2011, 07:17 PM
Thanks for the kind words.

Of all the areas of the knife, the one I'm most proud of, is mating up the scales to the bolsters. That was tedious sanding, but it was very satisfing.

01-20-2011, 12:54 AM
The most tedious work often brings the most satisfying results, and you've shown that very well.
Judging from how well this first knife turned out, I can't wait to see what you do in the future, 10, 20, or 30 knives from now!

Looking forward to more!