View Full Version : golok machete

10-13-2010, 05:46 PM
I'm looking at making me a sturdy and unique machete and I decided on making a golok, now there are a few things I'm looking at doing to help performance, one is horizontal fullers and the other is a metal handle. I'm mainly wanting to make me a beast of a machete for taking out medium sized trees, and any way to increase its chopping potential I want to look at. One thing I thought about to make it slice in easier was peining in some fullers running perpendicular to the blade to reduce friction and weight, has anyone ever tried doing something like that? And if so I would love to see some material on it. The other thing I want to do is use the same piece of steel and hammer out the handle and upset it into a counterweight like in most golaks, that way Its just one continuous piece of metal I don't have to worry about the handle coming loose on heavy impacts aas well as ballancing the blade. Should a handle greater than an inch in diameter be subject to allot of vibration? Am I going to break my hand when I whack a tree?

As usual I'm thinking in the steps ahead, but I just picked up a 120# pound antique anvil and I still don't have a forge. The pieces fall into place as I go so it won't be too much longer

10-13-2010, 07:44 PM
The only suggestion I have is I'd definitely wrap the handle in something, leather and paracord or thick leather - slamming hard objects with metal and a metal handle is gonna ring you around after a few swings.

10-18-2010, 06:48 PM
dude unless the metal handle is a deal breaker, I would SERIOUSLY listen to Tectonic and consider something else

I have been sold as of late on Horse Stall Mat

easy to work with, and is all kinds of awesome for impacts and is grippy!

10-21-2010, 07:10 AM
It does sound like a better idea, and Ive reworked my design to incorporate a wooden handle with a leather and chord wrap similar to an albion. few questions:
1. how do you make a curved hole in the wood to burn in the tang, the way I see it will probably involve cutting the block in half and chiseling out the grove slightly smaller than the tang, gluing it together then burning it in.
2. as far as the counterweight is concerned, will it be better to go with a peining block on the end and a cold peine, or to drill out a larger diameter hole and hot peine the end to fit and grind smooth?