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One
10-10-2010, 12:52 PM
More fun!

Its from 1095 with a mild steel spring clip edge guard.

Inside the tin:
Steel wool
Hard Arkansas flint and honing flake
Cotton cord
S hook

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v453/taigoo/On%20The%20Bench%202009/On%20The%20Bench%202010/DSCN1506.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v453/taigoo/On%20The%20Bench%202009/On%20The%20Bench%202010/DSCN1529.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v453/taigoo/On%20The%20Bench%202009/On%20The%20Bench%202010/DSCN1542.jpg

Raymond Richard
10-10-2010, 03:03 PM
Pretty cool! How's it work? Something else I need to try and make. That 1095 ought to work great.

One
10-11-2010, 08:28 AM
Yar, It works good, just strike the spine with the flint and catch the spark with the steel wool. The hook and cord can be used to carry it as a necker.

Bruce Bump
10-11-2010, 10:23 AM
Nice work on the striker knife. I like to start fires with the fint and steel method. I've never made my own but used the tourist store variety in the past. What steel makes big sparks? Is the spine soft to shave off a bigger piece for a larger spark?

One
10-11-2010, 10:54 AM
Bruce, 1095 or file steel seem about the best, simple steel with a lot of carbon. The spine has too be as hard as possible to "chip out" big sparks easy. On plain strikers I leave it dead hard from the water quench (and just temper the rats tails with a torch). On those it also helps to grow the grain a little. On the striker knives, I use a vegetable oil quench and minimal temper, 400 degrees one time, and neither grow the grain or try to reduce it any extra. It's a bit of a compromise for the combination knife and striker.

Raymond Richard
10-11-2010, 12:15 PM
Ita, I never have used anything except a match or lighter to start a fire. Do you hit the steel with the flint or scrape the flint on the steel?

One
10-11-2010, 12:55 PM
Ary, you hold a little wad of the steel wool (or char cloth if you have some) across the plain end (the end without the rats tail) and strike the spine with the flint with glancing blows towards the end with the steel wool. You knock a chip/spark off and throw into the steel wool. If you use a sharp edge on the flint it helps. It's cool the way the steel wool sparks up and burns. Fine steel wool works best, as fine as you can get.

(Note. Be careful with steel wool in your shop. Any little spark can set it off. We don’t want any more shop fires.)

Raymond Richard
10-11-2010, 01:04 PM
Ary, you hold the steel wool (or char cloth if you have some) across the plain end (the end without the rats tail) and strike the spine with the flint with glancing blows towards the end with the steel wool. You knock a chip/spark off and throw into the steel wool. If you use a sharp edge on the flint it helps. It's cool the way the steel wool sparks up and burns. Fine steel wool works best, as fine as you can get.

(Note. Be careful with steel wool in your shop. Any little spark can set it off. We don’t want any more shop fires.)

I can remember finding flint as a kid but never seen any in Oregon. Did you send away for the flint? Are there other stones that will work? Thanks for the explanation on how its used. I keep my steel wool in a fire prof box. :D

One
10-11-2010, 01:19 PM
Yar, actually yeah, a student of mine who lived in Arkansas got some novaculite (hard Arkansas) from one of the quarries up there and sent me some. Yes, there are other stones that will work. You can try different stones on an ordinary file to see if you can get a spark. Out here, you can usually find something. The hard Arkansas is cool though, because it also works so good for honing. You can use the hard Arkansas with water for honing as long as you never use oil with it.