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Ryan Minchew
09-13-2009, 05:41 PM
Before I managed to catch myself on fire Ken Hurst contacted me about building him a slip joint after he saw this one I posted. He's been an extremely patient man while I heal up from the burns and finish up other knives I had in the works.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives121.jpg
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives093.jpg

The pictures show fine silver nail pull studs (?), on the knife for Mr. Hurst they will be gold, the bolster will be bigger, and the handle (crossing fingers) will be blacklip pearl. I have the pearl sitting on the bench and it makes me nervous just looking at it. I've got some pictures loaded up and have more I'll add in a few days, and get caught up to the point I am actually at. My work schedule has kept me from getting these loaded. I have made VERY few folders so my methods are probably a bit different from others.

Laying out the pattern
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives477.jpg
I cut out several to have several to send to Paul Bos.

Here I have just cut out blade and spring together. It helps me to do it this way for drilling holes.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives469.jpg

Next I squared up the drill press so that my holes will be perpindicular and straight. Hopefully :o.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives478.jpg

Here I am drilling all the holes with a 3/32" bit. The pivot hole will actually be 3/16" for the phosphorus bronze bushing I use. But the 3/32" is a pilot.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives497.jpg

Reaming the holes with a 3/32" reamer using tapping fluid.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives501.jpg

Ryan Minchew
09-13-2009, 05:55 PM
I can't find my picture of it, but I took the pivot hole to 3/16" walking it up slowly with several reamers. It is still a bit undersize for the bushing I have for this knife. I will use a barrell lap. I also have some of it being profiled and can't find them, but here is the knife with the back notch cut out. I will show how to do that next.

http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives472.jpg

To cut the back notch out here are the steps I went through.

I removed the paper pattern and use dye chem to dye the tang.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives502.jpg
In this next picture you can see that the bottom wasn't completely flat across, using my grinder I got it close.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives524.jpg
Next using a granite plate, sandpaper, and a square I got it polished up and square to the sides of the tang.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives525.jpg
This shows the bottom square to the sides. The highlighted piece of metal on top is the kick.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives528.jpg


Once the bottom is square and where I want it in relation the bottom of the blade I base the rest of my measurements off of it. I will try to get them posted tonight or the next couple of days. Thanks

Bruce Bump
09-13-2009, 10:04 PM
Cool thread Ryan. Its interesting to see how people do things in their shops. Cant wait to see more.

Ken Hurst
09-13-2009, 10:48 PM
Glad to see you back at work Ryan ---- be careful this time. So glad to see that folder is coming along, I'm really excited to see what you come up with. Please remember NOT to send the spring off for heat treating until after I inlay gold into it. Thanks for the pic's and please keep us posted.

Ryan Minchew
09-13-2009, 11:19 PM
Thanks guys. Mr. Hurst pm sent gotta couple of questions for you.

silver_pilate
09-13-2009, 11:21 PM
Great WIP, Ryan! I gotta ask, though....how in the HECK did you set yourself on fire?!?! Gotta be careful up there!

--nathan

Craig
09-13-2009, 11:40 PM
Looking good Ryan, keep us posted when you can. Take care of yourself.

I agree with Bruce, it is nice to see how other makers work. yea!

Craig

John Barker
09-14-2009, 08:07 AM
Great WIP! Thanks for sharing.
-John

Ryan Minchew
09-15-2009, 11:18 PM
Thanks guys. I like WIP myself, but I"m kinda nervous doing one. I'm sure some slip joint makers are looking at what I do and crynging lol.

Nathan I managed to catch a 1 gallon can of acetone on fire. The lid was on it and it was close to exploding in the garage and before it did I grabbed it and ran out with it. I was extremely upset with myself, my wife and kid were asleep in the back room and it was me being complacent that caused it. I had to go for debriedment for a few weeks. I've never felt pain like I felt everyday while scrubbing it after keeping it in bleach water. The dr said for the first 3 days I would have 4 skin grafts 1 on my wrist, 1 on my elbow, 1 on my palm, and 1 on a knuckle. By day 4 he was happy and I ended up without any grafts. After physical therapy I do know now that the PT in front of your name does not stand for Physical Therapist, it stands for Pain and Torture lol. Hadn't talked to you about the new job, I hope it's going great and you're getting what you wanted out of it.

Now for more on the tutorial. I know there are more ways to do this and I"m sure easier. Some of what I'm doing is probably double doing, but it doesn't take me much time and gives me a peace of mind that things are squaring up the way I like.
At this point I'm working on squaring the tang up. I set my protractor to 90° and made the back square to the bottom of the tang. I did measure and put the line further back giving myself some work room on the half stop.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives505.jpg
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives504.jpg
From here I ground to the line. I also lapped it on the granite plate.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives507.jpg
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives518.jpg
I added the a line on top and it is the same distance from the top of the pivot hole as the bottom is from the bottom of the pivot hole.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives506.jpg
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives509.jpg
I took the measurement from the last picture and that's the length of the top line plus a .002".
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives510.jpg
I then drew a line perpindicular to this for the run up.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives512.jpg
You'll notice a second line on the back square and it is angled down 3°. The angled line is the one I will actually cut to.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives513.jpg
I used my carbide file guide and was able to get the results I wanted.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives520.jpg

JAWilliams
09-15-2009, 11:27 PM
More, we want more pics.2thumbs

Ryan Minchew
09-15-2009, 11:30 PM
More, we want more pics.2thumbs
LOl I'm trying, I've got a few more pics to post that will catch us up to where I am actually at on the knife. Gotta hit the sack gotta be at work from 5am till 11pm. If it weren't for that I'd be posting alot more pictures!

silver_pilate
09-15-2009, 11:33 PM
Ryan, holy crap, my friend!! A gallon can of acetone blew up on you?!? Thank God your family was safe and that you weren't hurt worse than you were. I've done wound care, but burns are the toughest. You'll never forget the screams you hear coming from the burn unit. I don't miss wound care at all. Hey, the new job is going very well. I'm really enjoying teaching this profession, and the fact that I'm looking forward to going to work again testifies that I'm where I need to be. I do miss the patient care, but the studen interaction helps make up for it.

Anyway...back on topic. Great tutorial so far. I will have to save this one when it's all said and done. Heal up well. I'm glad you didn't have to have grafts. The donor sites are just as painful as the burns for a while.

--Nathan

Ryan Minchew
09-17-2009, 09:39 PM
It didn't quiet blow up on me. It was burning when I picked it up and that's what got me, when I threw it out in the yard it knocked the lid off and relieved the pressure. It had just swelled up a whole bunch. My boss asked "Well did ya learn anything from it?" My response "Nope I KNEW better."

Glad to hear you're enjoying the new job. Makes going into work a whole lot easier.

Squaring the spring, alot of the same methods are used as squareing the tang. Sandpaper, granite block, and patience. First I sand and polish the bottom of the spring flat.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives532.jpg
Next I do a fit to the knife to see what I need to remove, or hope I didn't remove too much. .
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives537.jpg
I also grind some on the top of the spring if it's too thick.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives539.jpg

Here's a tip I picked up from Frank Niro (thanks!) on squaring up the grinder. I get it close by using a square against the platen and tool rest. I suppose in theory it's square, but I've never been able to grind something square by putting it on the tool rest and placing it up against the platen. The tip was to use a nut and grind on it and make adjustments until you are grinding one of the faces off all at once instead of too much at the top or too much at the bottom.

http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives567.jpg
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives570.jpg
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives569.jpg

ddavelarsen
09-18-2009, 04:31 AM
Ryan, now I know why every time I think I'm going to try building a slip joint, I don't. :D I'm always amazed that people can make these things work, and I'm watching this with real enjoyment. This is a great WIP thread and when it's all said and done I'm sure going to keep it too. Thanks for your effort!

Nathan, my wife's a nurse and she talks about missing the patient care too. People like me are always glad there are folks out there willing to take care of us when we're hurting. My hat's off to you too.

Ryan Minchew
09-20-2009, 10:12 PM
Alright I lost, then thought i found, the made sure I lost the pivot honing pictures, but I'll get more to add to this. I'm doing 3 knives at the same time. One in case I screw up and 2 for Mr. Hurst to work his magic on.

Mr Larsen, thanks for the encouragement, but i don't know if I'm helping anyone or making a fool of myself.

For now I'll be fitting the spring first off i used a dremel and the grinder and got the curves of the spring cleaned up
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives540.jpg
In this next picture you can see where I layed out my pivot hole while the blade was in the open position and next I drill it out. At this point I don't worry about the wood being dead flat, all I am doing here is working on getting the spring the correct length and close on half stop, open, and closed positions BEFORE heat treat.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives541.jpg
drilled with blade in place
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives542.jpg
I mess with the spring and get it to where it doesn't hit in the closed position.
Once I have the spring where I want it I pulled the blade up to clear the spring
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives543.jpg
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives544.jpg
Next I make a mark where the spring needs to be cut, also I set the angle at 90 to the spine of the spring. I've heard to use anywhere from 0 to 3° at this point. Sometimes I play with it to get it to be flat accross the spine to the spring.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives545.jpg
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives546.jpg

Next I lay it out open to check. I get it layed out open and butted up and I drill the end hole on the spring.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives547.jpg
Clamp the spring drill it and check it, here it is drilled out and closed

http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives548.jpg
One thing I try to avoid during all this is what makers told me was refered to as a broke back
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/slipgeom3.jpg

ddavelarsen
09-20-2009, 11:58 PM
Ryan, some time between the last post and this one I'd decided I'm going to take a shot at building a slip joint. So this is of even greater interest to me now; it's no longer for general intellectual interest, but for saving me grief! Not to add any pressure or anything. :D

Honestly, this is very helpful. Thanks.

Mike Turner
09-21-2009, 12:02 AM
Ryan thanks for sharing I love WIP's especial for slippies :D.

paladin5811
09-21-2009, 11:26 AM
Great thread...please post pics of some finished pieces. :)

MikeB
09-22-2009, 10:13 AM
Thanks for the educating thread, great looking slip joint. Mike

Frank Aguirre
09-22-2009, 10:23 PM
Awesome Thread Ryan. I got to spend a few days with Don Robinson from Brownsville and he tried to help me build a liner lock. It is still unfinished and it is not going to be very pretty. It is not Don's fault its just that I am a knuckle head.

Ryan Minchew
09-22-2009, 11:33 PM
Awesome Thread Ryan. I got to spend a few days with Don Robinson from Brownsville and he tried to help me build a liner lock. It is still unfinished and it is not going to be very pretty. It is not Don's fault its just that I am a knuckle head.

Your a lucky man, I'd like to spend a few days down at his shop.

Thanks for the comments guys. Tomorrow I will be posting more pictures and leading us all further in the wrong direction. :D

Ryan Minchew
09-24-2009, 12:27 AM
The last few steps I was getting the spring to the right length.
Next I try to get the closed, open, and half stop position close before I have the knives heat treated. There are jigs for this, and I'll buy one someday. For now this is how I went about it.
First with the knife in the open position I don't want the broke back or the opposite humped up position. I want the line to be fairly straight across from spine to spring.
Here's the humped up way I dont want it
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives539.jpg

Here's what I was looking for the spring is thicker, but it's parallel and I can grind off that minute amount when assembling the folder

http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives551.jpg

From the open position I draw a line under the spring I removed it for this picture. You can also see it in the above picture
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives550.jpg
Next I put the knife in the half stop position and take note of the spring in relation to the line I drew.

http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives552.jpg
and now I put it in the closed position and take note of how it fits against the line in that position
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives553.jpg

Now I'll show the parts I removed to get it to line up. I realize after heat treat these areas will be have to messed with, but for now I'm trying to get close.
If when in the half stop you cannot see the line because the spring has moved down take material off of this point. Not just where the pointer is but evenly all the way accross.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives571.jpg
If you can see a large gap between the line and the back of the spring when in half stop position take off material evenly at this point. You can use sandpaper and a hard flat backing. I was amazed at how little material removal moved the spring.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives572.jpg
Ok now put it in the closed position. If you cannot see the line because the spring is covering it up take off material with a sandpaper and a flat sanding block here or use the granite, sandpaper, and square block method.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives573.jpg

and for the record I noticed if i took material from one area, it might possibly affect a different position. You might have to play with all three to get it to line up on the line in all three postions.

Next I started removing the kick some to drop the blade into the spring more. When the spring is under load this changes some, but again I'm just trying to get close.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives548.jpg
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives554.jpg
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives555.jpg
You'll notice here I get up against the spring. I removed material from the tip of the blade because I had a bit of a flat spot in the curve anyway.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives559.jpg
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives562.jpg

Ken Hurst
09-24-2009, 12:56 AM
WOW ---- This is exciting ! It's almost like watching a slow motion birth and you know the item is going home with you as soon as the Doc. releases it.

ddavelarsen
09-24-2009, 03:50 AM
Well maybe that's how it feel for you... :D But it's just as cool for me to be watching this. I'm digging it to the max. Thanks for a great WIP Ryan.

RAGUEL3
09-24-2009, 03:54 AM
Cool, nice pix ,easily followed

John Barker
09-24-2009, 08:26 AM
Great WIP. I will try that squaring up the grinder trick. Thanks.
-John

Ken Hurst
09-24-2009, 08:32 AM
When Ryan has finished this tutorial & the knife is del. I'll start the same on the gold inlaying and engraving ----- this thread will continue.

Sean Cochran
09-24-2009, 12:24 PM
When Ryan has finished this tutorial & the knife is del. I'll start the same on the gold inlaying and engraving ----- this thread will continue.

Cant wait. Thanks guys

Ryan Minchew
09-25-2009, 10:50 PM
Ok now for some more. I got the knife to where it was close in all three positions to help save some frustration later on :rolleyes:

I did my nail nicks differently. I used fine silver thumbstuds on the knife. I've seen makers use a dremel to cut the nail nick with good results. I can't pull it off, and don't have a mill. I also don't want to put too much side load on my drill press by cutting them in with the drill press. Thus the studs came about as necessity and I really like it because it's a bit different. Mr. Hurst is doing some gold work on the knife so we decided to go with gold wire.

First I placed where I wanted my studs. I'm still playing with this part. On the first knives I used only one size. On these knives the middle stud will be bigger. To get them in line I dye chemed the blade then scratched a line against a straight edge. Using a light feel with a punch I'm able to actually feel the scratched line letting the punch fall into place. I marked the center hold first
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives579.jpg
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives580.jpg
Using a number 52 bit I drilled the center hole. This will fit the 14 guage wire
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives582.jpg

Next I spaced the outside two holes 1/8" from the center hole
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives584.jpg
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives583.jpg
Using a real light touch with the punch you can feel it fall into the marks you've made. I then tapped it with a hammer. I found on the smaller number 60 holes if your dent is too big, bits break easier. Here it is all drilled out
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives588.jpg
At this point I sent the knives out for heat treat. I do the rest of my grinding and what not after heat treat. But I already have these knives from heat treat. Tomorrow I will show the pivot lapping I did as well as the sanding flat.

ddavelarsen
09-26-2009, 06:05 AM
Thank Ryan. Every time I see that you've added to this thread, I get really pumped. :)

Sean Cochran
09-26-2009, 06:43 AM
Thank Ryan. Every time I see that you've added to this thread, I get really pumped. :)

Same here, cant wait to see the rest, great so far Ryan.

Sean

Ryan Minchew
09-27-2009, 11:01 PM
Got some more pictures. It's gonna be a couple days before I post some more. I have a birthday dinner with friends and family tomorrow, and I'm working on 3 of these at the same time. 2 are going to Mr. Hurst and the third is the trust ole back up lol. I am going to catch the other two knives up to this point before posting pictures.

I drilled the nail stud holes and sent them off for heat treat to Paul Bos. Now my next step is to start flattening. I pmd Todd Davison for some help on flattening, so I'll pass along what I learned from him.
Here they are back from heat treat.
http://s98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/?action=view&current=knives681.jpg
In the top left of this picture you can see 2 of the 3 I am working on
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives682.jpg
I start with an 80 grit blaze belt, mainly to work through mill scale and the dips and bows from the steel has.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives683.jpg


I run the belt at approximately mach 1 to begin with. After that I loosen the drive belt on the motor and drive wheel. What this does for me is, if I put pressure on the platen while flattening grinder belt will stop, or I can put enough pressure that the belt is litterally just creeping. The drive belt is slipping, but I feel this gives me more control over what I am trying to do. I place the part (spring or blade on the platen with about half hanging off the top of the platen like so
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives684.jpg

From here I use my other hand and drag the part down onto the platen. For some reason this helps me stop leading in with one side of the part or the other. I can get it laid flat on the platen doing this. I get it down on the platen and move it around it helps not too eat too much off each end.
I take it from 80 grit blaze, 100 grit ceramic, then onto a 220 grit ceramic. When I get to the 220 I really lay into it. Seems to get rid of the irregularities from the previous grits. The whole time I'm going through the grits I'm constantly checking the width on the calipers. Mr. Davidson told me to just worry about the measurement from one end to the other. I was able to keep it within .001. If one end gets to thick or one spot use your fingers and just apply extra pressure.

Here is the knife after 100 grit. In this picture you can see where I rubbed it sideways on 220 grit paper and granite plate to check high spots. You can see around the edges where ate off with the belt more, laying into it with 220 grit got rid of most of this. The rest I flatten on the granite later. I got into it and forgot to take a 220 grit belt picture, big difference in flattness.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives701.jpg

Once it's at 220 grit I start my barrel lap. I do this from the Tony Bose tutorial off of his website. I use phosporus bronze bushings. I'm going to try some later with just a pivot pin and washers I got from Mike Miller.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives685.jpg
I start with 600 diamond paste and lap until there is a tight fit with the bushing.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives686.jpg
Then I got to a few passes on the barrel lap with 800 grit, from there I do something different than Tony Bose.
Using the part that holds cutting disc in a dremel I put my bushing on it.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives688.jpg
I load up the pivot with 800 diamond paste
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives690.jpg
Then I put the screw through the bushing and into the disc mandrel
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives692.jpg

From here I just lap the bushing by hand. I sometime take them to work and while I'm waiting for guest I'll turn the blade until it's turning smooth on the pivot. Right or wrong it's the way I did it on the two I've done with busings. lol

Ryan Minchew
09-27-2009, 11:08 PM
I know work on fitting the bushing width. I still don't have the blade to the exact width because I'm going to mirror finish and I'm only at 220, but I want to get ready to start fitting it up. To do this I use a bushing lap I bought from Bill Vining.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives696.jpg
That orange piece of paper is .001" thick you place the blade pivot with the paper and lap the bushing. I lapped it on 800 grit paper, and with the paper it measure .001" thicker than the blade. I'll be doing this again later, like I said I just want to start rough fitting.
Another thing I do at this time is polish the inside of the spring, I just concentrate on the area the blade rides for now. To make sure it's perfectly square I use my carbide file guide and some stones from DMT that are garanteed flat. I clamp the guide to the diamond plate like so.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives693.jpg
In this picture you can see what I'm trying to accomplish. I run the spring up against the "fence" and I know it's square. I take it from 320 to 1200 grit.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives694.jpg
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives695.jpg
I also do the half stop position of the blade.
One other thing I did at this point was round the corners slightly on the tang so that it does not dig into the spring. I started with a 600 grit belt then using the same fence and diamond plate technique I polished them. Hopefully this shows the slight rounding
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives697.jpg

Ryan Minchew
09-27-2009, 11:10 PM
Now I have the parts to where I will start cutting liners.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives698.jpg
Over the next couple of days I'll get the other two to this point and the liners drilled and shaped. I know some guys might take their blades and springs to a higher point of finish before making liners, but the reason I didn't is because I want to make sure my holes are lining up square. If there is a problem I still have enough material I can remove on the belt grinder to help line things up.

ddavelarsen
09-28-2009, 04:28 AM
Thanks Ryan. Have a good time at your birthday celebration and getting the other knives caught up. We'll be waiting to watch this some more when you're ready. I sent a note to Bill Vining to see if I can snag a bushing lap, but he's not listing them in his tool section yet.

Does anyone know of an alternative source? Just working to get geared up. :) I have to try this!

Thanks a million Ryan.

Ryan Minchew
09-28-2009, 12:06 PM
I don't know of any alternative sources Dave, but he didn't have them on his website when I ordered mine. Everyone kept telling me to order one of his website, but it said coming soon. I thought I was losing my mind.

So far have I kept it able to follow or is it getting to jumbled?

mike miller
09-28-2009, 03:22 PM
You're doing fine . It is an excellent WIP. You are going more in depth than a lot of them I have seen..

ddavelarsen
09-28-2009, 06:26 PM
You're doing fine . It is an excellent WIP. You are going more in depth than a lot of them I have seen..

I'll second that. At least, until I try it myself! :D

balibalistic
09-28-2009, 06:38 PM
awsome, Ryan!! this'll come in handy 2thumbs

Sean Cochran
09-28-2009, 07:17 PM
Doing great bud! Keep 'em coming.

Sean

ddavelarsen
09-28-2009, 07:24 PM
I don't know of any alternative sources Dave, but he didn't have them on his website when I ordered mine. Everyone kept telling me to order one of his website, but it said coming soon. I thought I was losing my mind.

Thanks Ryan, I did send him a note so we'll see how it goes. I guess the worst that could happen is I don't get the bushing completely flat sanding it by hand. ;)

Ryan Minchew
09-30-2009, 09:07 AM
Dangit, dangit, dangit. I shaped liners for one last night got nearl done, and had a pivot hole in the liner wasn't going to cut it. It was oversized and not that round creating too much slop.

Sean Cochran
09-30-2009, 07:25 PM
Dangit, dangit, dangit. I shaped liners for one last night got nearl done, and had a pivot hole in the liner wasn't going to cut it. It was oversized and not that round creating too much slop.

Ryan
Its good to know Im not the only one fighting with liners. The knife Im working on right now is currently on its third set of liners. (fingers crossed)
So far so good just neet to attach the bolsters.

Sean

Ryan Minchew
09-30-2009, 09:53 PM
I'm right there with you Sean. I ruined a couple more, I had to walk away. I have rethought my game plan and I'm going to do it again tomorrow. No more for tonight.

ddavelarsen
10-01-2009, 04:46 AM
Sorry to hear about your frustration Ryan, I'm glad to know (in a way) that I'm not the only one who has problems once in a while. Hang in there. :)

Meanwhile, Bill Vining isn't able to come up with a bushing fixture. I've been thinking about it and wonder if I could make my own. So would you explain how it works? What my imagination suggests is that it has a pocket to hold the bushing, the shims support the fixture to ensure the bushing taken down to the desired thickness only? The shims have a hole in them the bushing extends through to the abrasive surface? I'm just trying to imagine how this works never having done it or seen it done. Really, no freakin clue whatever. But I don't see any reason I couldn't make my own if I knew what I needed to do. Thanks for any ideas.

Good luck with your liners.

John M Cohea
10-01-2009, 06:55 AM
Fantastic WIP Ryanurock1

Ryan Minchew
10-03-2009, 05:53 PM
Thanks guys. Been getting off late and not getting pics posted after working on the knife.

Dave tomorrow ill post pictures of the fixture, should be able to make one.

ddavelarsen
10-03-2009, 06:01 PM
Excellent!

Ryan I know what it's like working late, and no one could expect you to do more than you do. Honestly, I don't know how makers who come home from work and go into the shop do it. Aside from my wife freaking out, I'd just be too danged tired to do good work after a day at my job. So I end up in the shop on weekend mornings only, pretty much. I envy you guys who can build knives during the week; you have more guts than I do, for sure.

Ryan Minchew
10-04-2009, 05:43 PM
Excellent!

I envy you guys who can build knives during the week; you have more guts than I do, for sure.


I think I just don't have enough sense lol. I work 7 days a week during hunting season which is right now through April in Texas. Many days are 14-18 hour days, it's not fun. Most nights I work 14-18 hour days I usually go in the knife shop for at least an hour then grab a couple hours of sleep then back to work. Those long days I don't see my family they are asleep when I get home and when I leave. The days I do have time to see my family I spend as much time as possible with them. If I don't whittle on projects an hour at a time I would never get done.

Here's some pictures of the bushing lap for you. It's a round piece with a 3/16" hole drilled through it. It doesn't show it in the picture but once the pivot is lapped it will fit over the ram piece along with a .001" piece of shim stock.
Then placed in the 3/16" hole along with the bushing. Any excess sticking out gets ground off. Let me know if you need some different pictures I'll snap some more for you.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives733.jpg
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives734.jpg
In this next photo you can see that the blade is just setting next to the ram. I hadn't lapped this pivot hole yet so it didn't quiet fit over the rod.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives736.jpg
Bushing in the end. I grind off excess if there is alot then lap it on 800 grit
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives737.jpg

Ok here's one of the knives with the liners rough cut.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives702.jpg
My next step here is to make sure there are no burrs around the edges and glue them together with super thin super glue. I just place them together then run super glue around the edges
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives703.jpg
Next I laid out the pieces roughly how I wanted them in the open postion. Mainly to see where I needed to start drilling holes.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives704.jpg
I used a pencil and marked where the pivot hole needed to be. I then drilled it out with 3/32" bit.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives707.jpg
I then placed a 3/32" bit in the hole and placed the bushing and blade over it. and then placed it on top of a vice with the bit in the vice jaws. It's just giving me an extra set of hands. I lay the blade approximately how I want it in the open position and lay the spring on there where I wanted it.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives709.jpg
I had to make sure the run up/lock up area of the tang and the spring were clean. Dirt and what not in this area threw my fit up off a time or two doing this.

Ryan Minchew
10-04-2009, 05:56 PM
Once I got the spring where I wanted it in relation to the blade. I made sure I was pressing up snug and applied the super thin super glue to hold the spring in place for drilling. After screwing up two sets of liners doing these knives I changed my method.
Old method
1 fit spring and super glue in place on rough liners
2. drill end pin
3. remove spring with tap from mallet.
4. clean area with acetone
5. mark spot for middle pin

When using the thin super glue I would either use too much and glue the blade, bushing, pivot pin, spring, and liners all together in one big mess. It was a hassle and if I used too much while drilling the spring my pop loose and I would end up drilling the hole just a hair off.

Now I use parallel clamps
I clamped the blade in place first, then clamped in the middle of the spring. This left the end pin open for drilling.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives727.jpg
I had to do some manuevering and re zeroing of my drill press to let the screws from the clamps hang down but I got it done.
Now with the pivot pin and the end pin drilled I had to worry about the middle pin. The middle pin is the pin I drill offset to load the spring. I've read and talked to other makers about how they do their loading and I have gotten different answers. Some makers do it off the pivot pin, some off the middle, and some off the end pin.
I also don't have a good forumula of how much to load the spring. Like I've said before I've only made a hand full of slip joints and they have all been a litte different, but I'll show you what I've done on these knives.
With the blade and spring in place on the liners with pins in the drilled holes and the blade in open position I use an exacto blade to mark a line on the back side of the spring. I made sure I was right up against the spring because I was going to measure off of this line.
I could't get it to show up well so I highlighted it with a marker
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives710.jpg
From here I left the end pin and removed the blade. Next in the pivot area of the blade I measure up 1.5mm from the scribed line. I then clame the spring down in this position. The spring is 1.5mm from where it used to set on one end and closer to the middle pin it is less than that. I think the Tony Bose tutorial is 1/3 of the hole. Once I got the spring where I wanted it I clamped it down.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives731.jpg
I then drilled the 3/32" middle pin hole.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives712.jpg

Ryan Minchew
10-04-2009, 06:01 PM
The first set of liners that I super glued went great. That is until I rough ground them to shape and removed too much material, then noticed I had a hole that was not at tight as it should be. The next couple three sets of liners I used super glue to hold the spring in place and had problems all the way around.
I'll try to post some more pictures here in an hour or two.

ddavelarsen
10-04-2009, 06:13 PM
Ryan this is great. Loading the spring is something I've always wondered about. That makes perfect sense to me, though finding a way to measure 1.5 mm accurately is a puzzlement. I'll have to look around to see how I might do that. All I have are inside calipers; no rule that I can think of right now. Are you using 3/32 pins for the spring/liner holes too?

I'm afraid I don't get how the bushing lap works. I thought I had it all figured out in my head, but the ram threw me. :o Does the ram press the bushing down against the abrasive? What does the blade rest between the two parts for? Sorry I'm dense, but this is something I really want to figure out. It looks like something I could make if I knew what I was trying to do. :)

This is a fantastic WIP man. Thank you for using even more of your valuable time taking these pictures for us; I know that it more than doubles the time it takes you to do this work. Everyone here appreciates it, believe me. I don't know how you can put in the days you do, but I'm sure thankful you do! 2thumbs

Ryan Minchew
10-04-2009, 07:16 PM
I'm afraid I don't get how the bushing lap works. I thought I had it all figured out in my head, but the ram threw me. :o Does the ram press the bushing down against the abrasive? What does the blade rest between the two parts for? Sorry I'm dense, but this is something I really want to figure out. It looks like something I could make if I knew what I was trying to do. :)




I do use 3/32" pins for the middle pin and end pin also. I used a metal ruler to measure the 1.5mm. It's probably not dead on accurate, and it actually loads the spring a little hard, but I'll show later a way I combated that problem on a previous knife.

I'm not sure if ram is the correct name, but thats all I could think of to use lol.
I have some more pictures and I'll see if I can explain these. I agree you'll be able to make this part once ya figure it out.
In this first picture you can see the pivot bushing lap in it's two parts. You have the bigger round piece. It has a 3/16" hole through the middle. The second smaller piece with the "ram" sticking out. You can also see the blade with the 3/16" hole drilled for the pivot. There is the phosphorus bronze bushing and the orange paper is .001" shim stock. It came with the bushing lap but you can buy it at msc.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives744.jpg
This "ram" fits perfectly into the hole in the bigger piece.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives745.jpg
Also an important note, the ram is EXACTLY as long as the big cylinder. Here is is beside the big piece.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives749.jpg
With the two pieces together the end is flat and you can see the end of the ram here. Ther is no way to get a bushing there because there is no room for it.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives747.jpg
Now if you take the two apart and put the ram through the 3/16" hole in the blade and then slide the shim stock next to the blade and put it back in the ram. This creats a spot to put the bushing. I do like Tony Bose did and lapped my bushings .001" over the thickness of the blade. So with the blade on the ram and a .001" piece of shim stock the ram is sticking up on the blade end by that exact amount.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives751.jpg
You can see in the next picture there was a place to put the bushing. The bushing was .125" thick and my blade is .092" I believe. So doing the math .125" minus .093 (.092 plus .001) there is approximately .032" that you can see sticking out. It's excess and can be ground off.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives750.jpg
In the next picture pretend the coaster is my granite plate and sandpaper. I'm laying the bushing over to grind the excess sticking out.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives753.jpg
I'm just using one hand to push down on the top "ram" and the other hand to move the whole thing around
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives754.jpg

Hope this helps!

ddavelarsen
10-04-2009, 07:52 PM
Thanks Ryan, I get it now. Makes perfect sense. I think I'll take a shot at making one of these while I wait for parts to arrive. ;)

While you were posting that I've been looking around your website and reading your other WIP at the archery forum. You sure do nice work! Good stuff. Thanks for all your help.

Ryan Minchew
10-04-2009, 09:26 PM
Here's a few more for the night. Once I had the holes drilled I seperated the two liners using a razor blade and cleaned up the super glue with acetone. I also ran them accross some 320 grit sandpaper on the granite plate to remove any burrs.
Next I put a pin in the pivot hole and the end hole.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives713.jpg
Then the other liner went on
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives714.jpg
In the last picture you can see the sharpened 3/32" pin. In the picture it has a short taper on it, but I put a long taper on it and polished it up to 800 grit in the drill press. I laid the knife accross the vice and slowly hammerd the pin into the hole. I found that if I tried to do it with one or two swift strokes it bent and burred up not letting it go into the hole. Tapping it lightly it slid right in.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives715.jpg
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives716.jpg
Next I drew out my rough pattern and started shaping
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives717.jpg
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives719.jpg
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives720.jpg

Sean Cochran
10-04-2009, 09:54 PM
Ryan,
After many blisters:( I found an easy way to put the pivot pin in. I put a piece of stock the same thickness of the blade and spring in the vice then put the liners and spring together with the center and rear pins, slide it over the stock and press down, this moves the spring up and you can slide the pivot pin through. Ill try to get a pic posted tomorrow. Hope this helps.

Sean

ddavelarsen
10-05-2009, 04:15 AM
See, here's a 'problem' I'd never even thought about. I guess you have to do this stuff to learn what problems you have to solve but I've played through this process in my mind a lot and still missed some of the issues I'm going to face. This is invaluable information gents, thanks. I'm sure looking forward to giving this a try myself. I guess I don't really have to wait for a kit, do I? :D Hm.

Sean Cochran
10-05-2009, 06:34 AM
See, here's a 'problem' I'd never even thought about. I guess you have to do this stuff to learn what problems you have to solve but I've played through this process in my mind a lot and still missed some of the issues I'm going to face. This is invaluable information gents, thanks. I'm sure looking forward to giving this a try myself. I guess I don't really have to wait for a kit, do I? :D Hm.

Nope just jump right in and get your feet wet. Ill warn you though this things are addictive.:D

Sean

mike miller
10-05-2009, 07:57 AM
Sean some makers will tell you not to load the spring that way. They say that is what causes the scale to crack on the pivot pin. Pin the pivot pin last and it will also affect your blade spring connection.

Chuck Gedraitis Knives
10-05-2009, 08:30 AM
I load the spring by inserting the pivot and end pin. Then I put the knife in my soft jawed vise and close it enough to compress the spring. Then I just slide in the center pin.

Ryan Minchew
10-05-2009, 07:36 PM
Thanks for the thoughts on the spring guys, beats tapping it in with hammer.
Wanted to post a few more pictures mainly shaping. I screwed up the first set during shaping. I took too much off the front to where the lock showed in the half stop position.

http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives720.jpg
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives723.jpg
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives723.jpg
Here's some with the new liners shaped and the blade is rough ground here. I ground it on a 14" wheel.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives742.jpg
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives743.jpg
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives741.jpg
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives739.jpg
I'm using the parallel clamps to clamp to see what it looks like when closed. So far it's all lining up centered, fingers crossed it stays that way
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives740.jpg

I've got a little more on the other two to catch them up to this point so it maybe a couple days before I post some. In the closed position on this knife the spring sticks up a hair so I'll be showing how I'm going about correcting that problem. I worked on it some last night, hopefully I'll work on it a little more after work tonight.

ChipI.
10-05-2009, 07:44 PM
Great build along!!! I really like this kind of thing. Can't wait to see more.

ddavelarsen
10-06-2009, 03:49 AM
Thanks for more Ryan. :)

This is a perfect example of the adage, "ask 5 knifemakers how they do something and you'll get 9 answers." This is good stuff guys, thanks for the recommendations. Now I have a pocketful of ways to attempt that step, at least. :D

Sylwek Tyra
10-06-2009, 02:49 PM
thanks Ryan! Wonderful work - clean, accurate, beautiful
I can't wait to see more...

best regards

Ryan Minchew
10-07-2009, 09:49 PM
Glad ya'll are enjoying this.
Don't quiet have the other 2 caught up, but wanted to show a problem I ran into. I ordered the phosphorus bronze bushings a while back and I had used 3 of them no problems until now. The hole that was supposed to be 3/32" is not even close. That was the first problem. Second problem is I couldn't figure out how to hold the little turds without damaging them. Here was my solution
I took two pieces of metal and flattened them. I drilled a #30 hole in one and a 3/16" hole in the other. I put the #30 hole piece on bottom and lined up the 3/16" hole over it. This gave me a place to put the bushing and a hole underneath it to let the bit and reamer pass through. I spot welded the pieces together. I push the bushing into the 3/16" hole to where it bottoms out then placed a small drop of super thin glue to hold it in place while I reamed the hole to 3/32". Afterwards I use a benzomatic to heat the metal and push the bushing out with a piece of 1/8" rod through the #30 hole.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives756.jpg
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives757.jpg
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives758.jpg
with bushing in place
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives759.jpg

Another tip that may or may not help. Like I said I"m working on 3 of these knives and the bushings are lapped for that blade. I don't want to get them mixed up or lose them little suckers so when they are laying on the bench I placed tape on them to hold em in place
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives760.jpg

Sean Cochran
10-07-2009, 10:18 PM
Ryan
How are those bushings holding up? Have you worked a knife with them alot to see if they will get sloppy? Just wondering, I havent tried one with them yet.

Great WIP, its always good to see how someone else does things, you have given me a couple of real good ideas.

Sean

Ryan Minchew
10-07-2009, 10:25 PM
The two guys who have had the slip joints I put the bushings in have had them for 6 months. Neither of them has complained and still love the knives. It's easy to say top makers use them so there should be no problems, but I still want to judge for myself. After this WIP I'm making one for myself. It will have more abuse than the average slip joint, strictly to see how well the bushings hold up.
During mock up I assemble and disassemble approximately 450 million times (sure seems that way anyway) and didn't notice any change in the action or fit. That doesn't compare to using the knife and the forces that go along with it, but I felt good about it.

Thanks for the comments. Ryan

ddavelarsen
10-08-2009, 03:33 AM
I'll second Sean's comment, it's always great to hear how other makers solve problems. I don't have a welder, so I'd probably have superglued the two pieces of metal together too. ;) Or, that's what I'll do when I run across this issue.

Ryan, thanks for stopping your work to show us how it's going. I know how much time it takes to get photos, clean them up, save them to your host and make the post. It's valuable time that you're devoting to us here, and I really appreciate it.

Take care, and have fun.

Sean Cochran
10-08-2009, 08:33 PM
The two guys who have had the slip joints I put the bushings in have had them for 6 months. Neither of them has complained and still love the knives. It's easy to say top makers use them so there should be no problems, but I still want to judge for myself. After this WIP I'm making one for myself. It will have more abuse than the average slip joint, strictly to see how well the bushings hold up.
During mock up I assemble and disassemble approximately 450 million times (sure seems that way anyway) and didn't notice any change in the action or fit. That doesn't compare to using the knife and the forces that go along with it, but I felt good about it.

Thanks for the comments. Ryan

Thanks Ryan. I know Mr Bose and several other top makers use them, for several reasons. I think maybe the biggest reason is you can really set that pivot pin and close up the back of the knife. Tony's knives have no lines.:)

Im on the fence:confused:, on one hand it is a bigger pivot, which would provide some mechanical advantage but it is also an extra joint, so to speak, with more chance of failure. And it is bronze against steel.

Keep us updated Im curious to see how it holds up for you.

Sean

ddavelarsen
10-09-2009, 04:50 AM
I appreciate that you guys want to test the bushing before committing your guarantee to it, but one thing that occurs to me is that the bushing is lubricated bronze, right?, which should reduce wear. And the way Ryan's building this the contact surfaces are exceptionally well finished, again reducing causes of wear. Plus, the pivot force is distributed over a much larger surface - more help reducing wear. I'm pretty confident personally, but naturally I'll be interested in learning how Ryan's hard use testing goes. (Which is my way of saying he'll probably build all these knives and his own before I can make one that works. :))

Sean Cochran
10-09-2009, 05:32 PM
I appreciate that you guys want to test the bushing before committing your guarantee to it, but one thing that occurs to me is that the bushing is lubricated bronze, right?, which should reduce wear. And the way Ryan's building this the contact surfaces are exceptionally well finished, again reducing causes of wear. Plus, the pivot force is distributed over a much larger surface - more help reducing wear. I'm pretty confident personally, but naturally I'll be interested in learning how Ryan's hard use testing goes. (Which is my way of saying he'll probably build all these knives and his own before I can make one that works. :))

Very good points, I guess I need to get off my butt and try it for myself.cool 1

Great WIP Ryan

Sean

Ryan Minchew
10-10-2009, 11:41 PM
I'm interested myself. Ya'll brought up the pros and cons I had of using the bushing. One more thing that makes it more difficult. Instead of one hole that needs to be square to the knife, you have two. One on the tang of the knife and one in the bushing it'self.

Over the next couple of days I'm going to try to get pictures of the bolsters and the handle fitting posted. Might have to bear with me on this part. I"m using blacklip pearl that has to be shaped to a curved bolster. Neither I have done before so I'm a little nervous and slow about it.

T.A. DAVISON
10-11-2009, 12:30 AM
Tony Bose uses bushings and Reese Bose doesn't.

I did use them, now I do not, just my preference.

Either way you can make a good knife, it's all in the fit.

They can help a little when you go to pin the knife together. - A little?

Todd



.

burchtree
10-11-2009, 06:11 AM
Thanks for the tutorial -- A slipjoint was one of my "new year's resolutions" for this year and I don't have much time left!

ddavelarsen
10-11-2009, 06:13 AM
I'm interested myself. Ya'll brought up the pros and cons I had of using the bushing. One more thing that makes it more difficult. Instead of one hole that needs to be square to the knife, you have two. One on the tang of the knife and one in the bushing it'self.

Over the next couple of days I'm going to try to get pictures of the bolsters and the handle fitting posted. Might have to bear with me on this part. I"m using blacklip pearl that has to be shaped to a curved bolster. Neither I have done before so I'm a little nervous and slow about it.

Ryan I know you have to take your time and believe me, I'm nowhere near actually doing any of this anyway, so no concern about me catching up to you and asking a bunch of dumb questions before you get to them. :D Bolsters are one thing I've been wondering about, so looking forward to that day.

One thing that occurs to me is I need to go back to see whether you mentioned the stock thickness you're using. I checked steel yesterday and even if I wanted to I don't think I have the right stock for a project like this. I need to find out what to order. First things first. :rolleyes:

Cubane
10-11-2009, 07:13 AM
Ryan,
After many blisters:( I found an easy way to put the pivot pin in. I put a piece of stock the same thickness of the blade and spring in the vice then put the liners and spring together with the center and rear pins, slide it over the stock and press down, this moves the spring up and you can slide the pivot pin through. Ill try to get a pic posted tomorrow. Hope this helps.

Sean


Sean some makers will tell you not to load the spring that way. They say that is what causes the scale to crack on the pivot pin. Pin the pivot pin last and it will also affect your blade spring connection.

If you think about the mechanics of a slip joint you only have to push the spring out enough so the hole in the tang lines up. When you are opening and closing the knife the spring will get pushed up further than you need to do to get the pivot pin through.

Alistair

Sean Cochran
10-11-2009, 08:13 AM
Dave
I cant speak for Ryan, but I use 3/32" for the blade and spring. and .040 for the liners, 1/8 for the bolsters.

Hope this helps.

Sean

ddavelarsen
10-11-2009, 10:30 AM
Thanks Sean, that helps a lot, and it's about what I'd expected. I was really wondering about the liners too. This is a great thread. Naturally, I don't have any stock for a project like this so in addition to a few new tools I need to order some steel! I love steel though, and tools.

Presumably you guys solder the bolsters onto the liners. Lately I've had a lot of trouble getting the surfaces clean enough for the solder to flow; don't know what my problem is because years ago I was a soldering fool. But not anymore. I think Tony Bose tins the surfaces and uses a pencil to mask the solder. That's what I would try unless you guys have a better idea. I'm sure open. How do you clean your surfaces?

Also, it'll come up soon but I'm wondering how you hold onto the blade while grinding. Other than building a jig of some sort to clamp it to I can't think how that would work without a handle to hold onto. Only having made fixed blades, I'm a bit nervous about grinding a) such a small blade and b) one without something to hold onto it with. :)

This weekend I made a couple of manicure knives (don't laugh! :D). My brother is my computer savior, has spent untold hours dealing with my various machines, so when he asked for something to replace his pocket knife for this task I got to it. It was a fun project but the blades are tiny - half an inch long - and I did not grind them well. That's sobering.

Ryan Minchew
10-11-2009, 10:52 AM
I use the same size stock as Sean. As far as the bolsters I actually spot weld them on. I needed a spot welder for other projects and the harbor freight model was on sale. That said I would use the Tony Bose way if I were soldering.
For grinding I grind the blade after the handle is made, gives me something to hold onto. I also use Blaze belts for the initial bevels, run cool and cut a lot. Depending on my mood I may use a dowel rod with a step ground in it to support the blade.
Any of yall have tips for working blacklip? I plan on working it wet and cutting it with a jewelers saw.

Glad yall are enjoying this, I am learning new things as I go along.

Tony Moyer
10-11-2009, 11:36 AM
Great WIP Ryan

Dave, I made my bushing lap out of some pre hardened 4140 it doesn't matter if its hardened or not, then I turned the pusher rod on my lathe but if I was to do it over I would use some 3/16" drill rod and drill and locktite it into the handle end alot simpler then lap the rod in the holder.

ddavelarsen
10-11-2009, 11:55 AM
Thanks Tony that's pretty much what I had in mind though I hadn't thought of 4140 - that's a great idea. Did you ream the hole for the bearing and rod to go through?

Ken Hurst
10-11-2009, 11:58 AM
RYAN, I suggest you ask your supplier about the best method. I also think Bladsmith would have some good ideas perhaps.

Tony Moyer
10-11-2009, 01:16 PM
Dave, at first I reamed the the hole than I couldn't get some of the bushings to fit so I lapped the hole with a lap and some 600 grit compound until it was a little oversize. The way that these laps are made is the little screw on the end can be tightened up to go oversize or undersized so a set of micrometers is a must with these little buggers so can be some of the problems that Ryan is having with the bushings not fitting. I have a couple of these and keep them separate until I got them mixed up and screwed up a blade now one is pink (only color nail polish I had in the shop at the time).
Another thought is the 3/32 pins these can be a lot of trouble to deal with, 3/32 measure .0938 and all of the pins that I get from different suppliers measure anywhere from .094 to .096 so am thinking a getting special sized reamers from MSC.
I put the preload on my springs on the bottom of the spring this is the way that Terry Davis does it in his book and from the few times that I have called him it is still the way that he does it. I do it this way because it's the simplest way.
I put off making slipjoints for a long time because I was afraid of them, now they are the only ones I make. The first time I met Bill Burke a few years ago he was working on a slipjoint and he told me stay away from them, every time since that I have been in his shop that's what he messing with. They are addictive and every time I get pissed off at one and go to work on something else give it another 30 minutes and it's back in my hands and nothing else in the shop ever gets done.

Sorry for the rambling but all I can say for the guys that want to do it is to get out into the shop and do it. You will find all of the ways there is not to make one but it can be fun.

Tony

Sean Cochran
10-11-2009, 02:28 PM
Thanks Sean, that helps a lot, and it's about what I'd expected. I was really wondering about the liners too. This is a great thread. Naturally, I don't have any stock for a project like this so in addition to a few new tools I need to order some steel! I love steel though, and tools.

Presumably you guys solder the bolsters onto the liners. Lately I've had a lot of trouble getting the surfaces clean enough for the solder to flow; don't know what my problem is because years ago I was a soldering fool. But not anymore. I think Tony Bose tins the surfaces and uses a pencil to mask the solder. That's what I would try unless you guys have a better idea. I'm sure open. How do you clean your surfaces?

Also, it'll come up soon but I'm wondering how you hold onto the blade while grinding. Other than building a jig of some sort to clamp it to I can't think how that would work without a handle to hold onto. Only having made fixed blades, I'm a bit nervous about grinding a) such a small blade and b) one without something to hold onto it with. :)

This weekend I made a couple of manicure knives (don't laugh! :D). My brother is my computer savior, has spent untold hours dealing with my various machines, so when he asked for something to replace his pocket knife for this task I got to it. It was a fun project but the blades are tiny - half an inch long - and I did not grind them well. That's sobering.

Dave,
Time for you to jump in and get your feet we, tell you what, Ive got some knives ready for HT right now that are all sold, but I will be cutting some more out next weekend, If you want Ill cut you out a blade and spring and trace out the liner pattern, I think I have some .040 ss I can send you for liners too. All you will need is to get some 1/8 416 SS for bolsters.

As for attaching the bolsters, I have spot welded which is quick and easy and it works well, the tradeoff is you have the holes left from the welding on the inside of the liners. I have also soldered using the same method as Tony bose, this works but takes some practice. (And the solder will not cross the pencil line) Chris Crawford has a little different method in his online tutorial I havent tried it yet.

Holding the blade is a little different, I have grinding jig that holds the blade and creates a handle to hold. If you think of a filing jig with one of the peices shaped into a handle. I know that sounds as clear as mud. Ill try to get you a pic later.

Hope this helps

Sean

Cubane
10-11-2009, 04:48 PM
As for attaching the bolsters, I have spot welded which is quick and easy and it works well, the tradeoff is you have the holes left from the welding on the inside of the liners. I have also soldered using the same method as Tony bose, this works but takes some practice. (And the solder will not cross the pencil line) Chris Crawford has a little different method in his online tutorial I havent tried it yet.



I have tried both methods and much prefer the Tony Bose method. It is more effective across different materials (Stainless and Nickel Silver) where as I couldn't get Chris Crawfords method to work on Stainless

Alistair

ddavelarsen
10-12-2009, 04:22 AM
Dave,
Time for you to jump in and get your feet we, tell you what, Ive got some knives ready for HT right now that are all sold, but I will be cutting some more out next weekend, If you want Ill cut you out a blade and spring and trace out the liner pattern, I think I have some .040 ss I can send you for liners too. All you will need is to get some 1/8 416 SS for bolsters.
Sean

Sean that's absolutely cool. PM about to be on its way. :D You guys rule.

ddavelarsen
10-12-2009, 04:42 AM
Well it's inevitable guys - I'm going to be building my first slippie here in a while. I'd better get my orders knocked out so I can focus on the new project! :D

Thanks for everyone's help. This is one of the best threads I've ever read. We sure have a great community; makes me think of the open source software folks. Working on a software project must be a lot like this. Very cool.

Sean Cochran
10-12-2009, 06:01 AM
Well it's inevitable guys - I'm going to be building my first slippie here in a while. I'd better get my orders knocked out so I can focus on the new project! :D

Thanks for everyone's help. This is one of the best threads I've ever read. We sure have a great community; makes me think of the open source software folks. Working on a software project must be a lot like this. Very cool.

You know of course we expect pics.cool 1;)

ddavelarsen
10-12-2009, 06:35 PM
Oh, you'll get em, just don't hold your breath. ;) I'm reeealy slow.

Craig
10-12-2009, 07:02 PM
Way to go Sean!!! 2thumbs

David, you will do fine once you get started. Post lots of pics :D

Rusty McDonald
10-12-2009, 07:03 PM
Nice! Now BACK TO WORK RYAN! We want some more of those Pic's of this WIP.

ddavelarsen
10-12-2009, 07:09 PM
Way to go Sean!!! 2thumbs

David, you will do fine once you get started. Post lots of pics :D

Honestly I can't wait to get started. I'm just afraid it's going to be as addictive you you all say it is. I'll start giving up sleep like the rest of you!

And yeah, I'll take pics. Don't worry. Just so I can take them to work a try to figure out what's next if nothing else. :)

Sean Cochran
10-12-2009, 08:23 PM
Honestly I can't wait to get started. I'm just afraid it's going to be as addictive you you all say it is. I'll start giving up sleep like the rest of you!

And yeah, I'll take pics. Don't worry. Just so I can take them to work a try to figure out what's next if nothing else. :)

Ill tell you Dave, since I started them I had a customer order a skinner for his son and it is the first time making a knife felt like work. I really wanted to be working on a slippie. Maybe its just me. I guess it may be because I have liked folders since I was young.

Sean

Ryan Minchew
10-12-2009, 10:46 PM
[ I'm just afraid it's going to be as addictive you you all say it is. I'll start giving up sleep like the rest of you!)[/QUOTE]

quoted for truth lol

Heres a few more pictures. Started cutting and shaping bolsters. Didn't quiet get to the point of spot welding them.
When Mr. Hurst contacted me about this knife, he wanted the bolsters to have the same shape on the end as the end of the knife. He sent me a drawing of what he wanted.
Here I'm just placing one liner over the other to get the right shape for the bolster. I played with it some because I didn't want to have to cut and shape the blacklip to where it had two very thin points going around the curve.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives762.jpg
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives763.jpg
Cut a piece of 416 and clamped it to the liner. It was way oversized which is the way I do most things the first time. Drill the hole then started shaping.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives765.jpg
During shaping
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives766.jpg
Here the curve is very rough shaped.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives767.jpg
Here I superglued another piece of 416 to the rough ground bolster to get it shaped close to size.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives772.jpg
Shows the liners, bolsters, and the blacklip I'll be using
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives768.jpg
Started getting the liners ready for welding as well by flat sanding them on the granite. Used masking tape shaped like a "T" to help hold onto them.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives769.jpg
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives770.jpg

ddavelarsen
10-13-2009, 04:34 AM
You're a tease man! :D I want to see you cutting that pearl. For what it's worth, I've cut pearl once. I used a jeweler's saw with I think a #4 blade. That's fairly coarse, but it still took quite a while to cut the stuff. I lubed it with water thinking I'd keep the dust down but friction dried it quickly. I'm not sure what a better lube would be but might try beeswax. It was very slow going. I made a stake out of a window shim, and it was a bit too flexible. I think you want a fairly stiff stake with not much of a cutout for the saw blade, in order to support the pearl at all times. I didn't break mine but I did freak a couple times when the saw got jammed. ;)

Good luck Ryan and have fun. This is a great thread.

Sean Cochran
10-13-2009, 05:15 AM
Thats a very interesting bolster, is Ken going to engrave this one?
Cant wait to see it finished.

Sean

Ryan Minchew
10-13-2009, 08:52 AM
Dave I'm sure the pucker factor is going to be high when I'm cutting that stuff lol.
Sean Mr. Hurst is going to engrave them, should have plenty of canvas.

ddavelarsen
10-13-2009, 06:59 PM
Don't worry Ryan, it'll go okay - just support the tips when you're cutting close to the edge! :D I'm really looking forward to Ken's engraving. Everything I've seen (all on Bruce Bump's stuff) has been so freakin beautiful it'll make your chest swell up. Fantastic. To have someone like Ken Hurst engrave something you made is really an honor. :cool: That's just cool as cool can be.

Ryan Minchew
10-13-2009, 10:28 PM
Don't worry Ryan, it'll go okay - just support the tips when you're cutting close to the edge! :D I'm really looking forward to Ken's engraving. Everything I've seen (all on Bruce Bump's stuff) has been so freakin beautiful it'll make your chest swell up. Fantastic. To have someone like Ken Hurst engrave something you made is really an honor. :cool: That's just cool as cool can be.

When he called me I was extremely excited. I just hope the knife is half as good as the engraving.

Actually cut some blacklip tonight!
First things first. I got the bolsters shaped and polished on the end that meets the pearl to 600 grit. This took a little time to line everything up, but I got there.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives774.jpg
Didn't snap a picture but used a benzomatic to heat the bolsters enough to break the superglue bond.
Next I positioned the blacklip on the liner like I wanted it to fit. THere's a little bark on one end, but that end is thicker and when I grind off the bark it will look good from the test spot I tried. Plus 90% of the bark will be excess cut off.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives778.jpg
Now I placed the bolster on the liner like I wanted it and placed a drill bit for a pivot pin. I used a second clamp to keep it lined up with the liners.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives777.jpg
I traced around it with a sharpie. I did around the bolster then flipped the knife over and traced around the liner. Gives me two reference points when fitting it up.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives779.jpg
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives780.jpg
Next I set something up to saw the pearl on. I used mild steel and cut a slit in it that the jewelers saw would fit into. Clamped that to a thick piece of wood and put it in the vice.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives782.jpg
Now onto cutting. I'm not sure what size the blade was in the jewelers saw because the blades I have were given to me and I have never ordered any.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives783.jpg
I used Windex for lube and didn't seem to have any problems. Or none that I'm aware of :D
In this next picture you can see I didn't get real close to the line on one part. I sanded that down some later to help rough fit. I also had two small wings on each side of the bolster cut out. I went ahead and cut them off, they were small and I figure one wrong move and I would hit one and break it in the wrong spot.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives784.jpg
I can't find the picture of the bolster clamped up and the pearl next to it, but it obviously needed some sanding work. I used a sharpie marker to mark where it touched and I needed to remove the material.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives786.jpg
This is what I'll be working on the next day and then I have a two day vacation coming up. My bride and family bought me a two day bowhunting trip for a ram. She said I always take people hunting for work so she's letting me see what the other side is like :cool:

ddavelarsen
10-14-2009, 02:24 AM
Ryan I love watching you work. You are meticulous. This is good stuff!

Sounds like you have an interesting day job too man. Cripes, good living must be worth it! :D

ddavelarsen
10-14-2009, 04:51 AM
Ill tell you Dave, since I started them I had a customer order a skinner for his son and it is the first time making a knife felt like work. I really wanted to be working on a slippie. Maybe its just me. I guess it may be because I have liked folders since I was young.

Sean

Ryan I've been thinking about this a lot. This is something that causes me all sorts of trouble - people ask me to build knives for them, which is a real treat! I'm blessed with the confidence of my customers. But the thing is the orders are always for something I've done before, so they're more like work than the thrill of doing something new. I keep saying I'm never going to take orders and just make what I want to make, but as soon as someone asks me to do something I'm so happy that I can't say no. Then I procrastinate and don't get stuff done on time. That's not okay, and I really struggle with trying to keep up to date. I swear, I'm going to do some of the orders before I spend all my time on my slippie project. Somehow. Somehow I'm going to get them done... But cripes, all I can think about is this! Being a knifemaker is not just making knives, it's doing right by one's customers too. I'm not as good with that as I should be. I'm working on it though.

That being said, I've read through this post this morning to make sure I get all the stuff I need. Quite a list! :) You had mentioned that there's a jig for fitting the stops. Can some of you guys show me an example sometime? Don't stop what you're doing to find it, just in the back of your mind next time any of you see one remember me. :D I'm curious where all the specialty tools slippie makers use are found. Anyone have some places I could go look? Like I said, I'm a tool junkie from the word Go.

Okay, thanks! Have a great day gents.

Sean Cochran
10-14-2009, 05:28 AM
Dave
I have a Dr appt so I am leaving work early.
If all goes well I will get in the shop this afternoon, if I do I will get you a pic of the jig and get your blade and spring out to ya.


Sean

Craig
10-14-2009, 12:09 PM
Dave here is one I made to help set up the tang in the open, closed and half stop position.

http://i384.photobucket.com/albums/oo285/Craigknife/PA140051.jpg

Craig

Sean Cochran
10-14-2009, 01:49 PM
Ryan
It just occurred to me that your thread has been somewhat hijacked, sorry.:o

Dave,
Your package will go out today, though I didnt have time to cut everything out I just scratched the profile out on the steel (which is ATS34). When you start working on it leave everything just a little big and take the last down to size slowly, I do the last few thousandths by hand especially on the tang and end of the spring. If you need any help feel free to ask someone who is better at this than me.:o;)

Sean

edit: I have some pics of my grinding jig I will post later on.

Ryan Minchew
10-14-2009, 02:35 PM
[QUOTE=Sean Cochran;17841]Ryan
It just occurred to me that your thread has been somewhat hijacked, sorry.:o

QUOTE]


Not one bit hijacked. I figure you guys that know a thing or two about slip joints are going to keep the guys in line that I'm derailing by showing my way 2thumbs

Craig
10-14-2009, 02:54 PM
Ryan, I think we all have some what of a different way to make these things. That doesn’t make any one way right or wrong. I feel it’s the end result that counts most. These WIP builds get people to think about how to use what is available to them to make knife. I too apologize for helping hijack your thread.

Craig

Ryan Minchew
10-14-2009, 03:47 PM
Ryan, I think we all have some what of a different way to make these things. That doesnâEUR?t make any one way right or wrong. I feel itâEUR?s the end result that counts most. These WIP builds get people to think about how to use what is available to them to make knife. I too apologize for helping hijack your ad.

Craig

Trust me no reason to apologize. I appreciate ya'lls input. Speaking of different ways I will be posting pictures of my method of relieving liners this weekend. I've posted it on other forums and actually have a few other makers doing it. Thanks again for any help and commentary.

ddavelarsen
10-14-2009, 07:34 PM
I guess it could be said we'd hijacked Ryan's thread but it feels more to me like we're all hanging around his shop shooting the breeze, watching Ryan work. :D

Sean, I'm totally psyched! 2thumbs I can't thank you enough.

Craig, does the plunger on your jig touch the spring? It's hard for me to tell since I don't really know what I'm looking at. You're all getting the idea by now I'm reasonably dense and take a lot of 'splainin'. :o But I think I can set that up.

I look forward to and think about and reread this thread pretty much all day. Well, can't read it at work because of the nanny bot (knives are weapons!), but having read through it in the morning I can just replay it in my head all day.

That's how I think up all my dumb questions. :D And Craig's right - I do sit around thinking how I can do some of this stuff with the tools I have.

Sean Cochran
10-14-2009, 08:05 PM
I guess it could be said we'd hijacked Ryan's thread but it feels more to me like we're all hanging around his shop shooting the breeze, watching Ryan work. :D

I hadn't looked at it that way, you are right.cool 1


Sean, I'm totally psyched! 2thumbs I can't thank you enough


No problem. I have been helped by many a good knife maker, both here locally and online, Im just paying it forward.

BTW
I put a surprise in the package. It is a piece of Koa that I just got stabalized. It doesnt have a lot of figure but it is a pretty good looking piece of wood.
I tried a new guy, Woodlab. I havent worked with any of it yet so if you decide to use it let me know what you think. I also have some of Mark's (Burlsource) to try. It is really nice looking stuff and I look forward to using it.

Now here is my non hijack part of the post:cool:
Ryan waiting on pics of a test fit.;)
There now it is not a total hijack.

Sean

Sean Cochran
10-14-2009, 08:11 PM
I almost forgot, here are some pics of the jig I use to grind the blade.

Ryan Minchew
10-14-2009, 08:17 PM
Ryan waiting on pics of a test fit.;)
There now it is not a total hijack.

Sean

:D I marked the other scale for cutting, but gonna be gone from the shop a couple of days. I'll have my phone to check all the things ya'll say behind my back though:D

I'm going to have both rough cut and very rough fit then spot weld the bolsters on. THis way there is no other movement to throw me off while final fitting the pearl.
This weekend the plan is
1. get other scale rough cut
2. very rough fit both scales.
3. spot weld bolsters
4. use my etcher to etch .005" relief in the liners (looks really good, not crappy like it sounds) I did this because I don't have a mill, did some experimenting and have done it on 2 knives.

Sean Cochran
10-14-2009, 09:05 PM
: use my etcher to etch .005" relief in the liners (looks really good, not crappy like it sounds) I did this because I don't have a mill, did some experimenting and have done it on 2 knives.


Can't wait!:D

ddavelarsen
10-15-2009, 04:19 AM
There's just too much stuff for me to be quoting here, not even awake enough to type right yet. :rolleyes: But wow, am I ever a happy camper! Ryan, you may have mentioned something I don't know how I'm going to do. I do have a mill, but I totally suck using it. I guess I'm going to have to see how much you relieve the liners and then try to figure that one out. Yikes!

Sean, I'm really looking forward to your care package! I love koa, one of my favorite things. I have a piece of Mark's test wood to use too, just haven't made anything for a while. Now there's a good guy, but I'm trying not to get too far off track. ;) I know what you mean about other makers helping - I'm sure getting the goodness of that today. When I started making (that was a long time ago) I was just kind of going by hearsay from a few books and magazine articles. When the internet forums came along my work shot up. If it weren't for people like you guys helping me figure stuff out, I'd be an even worse hack than I am. Taking on a project like this would be nearly impossible without a place like this to work it through. I wouldn't even try it. But look at me now! I'm getting ready to do something really cool and it's only because of Ryan's thread and all the fantastic support I'm getting from everyone. Thanks Sean, that's great. By the way, your jig is pretty much what I'd have tried to make if I was working in the dark like I normally do. I'm going to take your idea and run with it. I know Ryan said he grinds the blade in its handle but I'm really not comfortable with that - you haven't seen me grinding! I'd twitch and take off half one of the bolsters, then spend the rest of the day trying to make them match. :D

Speaking of handles though, I used some celluloid I bought a while back for one of the manicure knives from last weekend. It's really nice looking stuff, and smells great when you work it. I've really been thinking about looking around to see what's available there too. I hadn't thought about wood but now you've got me sidetracked again... I think Ryan's pearl is going to be totally sweet, but wood or plastic sounds like the thing for my first run at it. We'll see what happens - that's a LONG way off. :D

Okay thanks guys, time to see what other email stacked up overnight. Then back here to reread it before I go to work. See you around.

Ryan Minchew
10-18-2009, 12:43 PM
Well guys made it in from my bow hunt this morning at 3 am. Shot a Texas Doll ram with my bow, as well as a wild boar. Got a few hours of sleep and woke up way to early. Worked on the slip joint for 45 minutes, now I'm laid up with the fever and flu. NOT THE WAY I WANTED TO END MY HUNT! Hope yall had a great weekend.

ddavelarsen
10-19-2009, 04:42 AM
Oh man, I hope you feel better soon. We had a sick granddaughter this weekend and I really went out of my way to avoid getting any of her sneezes on me. :D Let's hope that worked. I feel okay so far. This is our busy time of year at work; until about Thanksgiving it's going to be longer than normal days and some weekends. I can't afford to get sick right now! Plus I'm the biggest wuss in town when I don't feel good.

Just take good care of yourself Ryan and with any luck you'll be back to your normal self in a couple of days. I really feel for you. I'm glad you had such a good hunt to think back on! :D Any pics? Where'd you go?

mike miller
10-19-2009, 04:04 PM
Ryan take care of yourself and make sure Colton doesn't get it . That stuff is BAD. Rick got it and then a week after he thought he was over it had pneumonia.

Ryan Minchew
10-19-2009, 06:05 PM
Yeah I've been staying in one room. I tested positive for the swine flu this morning. It stinks not getting to hold my little boy, but I dang sure don't want him to get it. I got chest xrays for pneumonia, he didn't see any. But he said as bad as m lungs sounds I need to be carefull. Crazy how fast this stuff hit me, within a few hours. Yall stay healthy!

Sean Cochran
10-19-2009, 07:19 PM
Ryan,
Sorry to hear, take care buddy.

Sean

ddavelarsen
10-23-2009, 05:25 AM
Just thinking about you Ryan, and sending major "Get Well" vibes. (Ancient Hippy Idiom) Hang in there and take good care of yourself. The upside of this (leave it to me to find the silver lining even if it's dirt) is that you won't be subject to this flu again. The pause has given me time to absorb more of the forgoing, too. This is great stuff.

Ken Hurst
10-23-2009, 08:42 AM
Dave, I encouraged Ryan to do something like this and many have benefited from his WIP. Ryan is mostly self taught as I understand -- learned thru his mistakes ---- which is a great person to learn from. We are all sorry about his illness but, as you said, you now have time to better absorb the wisdom he has shared. My question to you is, are you going to start on a WIP on your folder ?2thumbs

ddavelarsen
10-23-2009, 09:13 AM
:) Ken, you and Sean are tough customers! I'm concerned that my attempt will be very disappointing for our readers. However, I do have my first blade and spring profiled, and I'll give a picture of it below. The pattern and material is courtesy of Sean Cochran. 2thumbs

http://www.dave-larsen.com/StuffbyDaveLarsen/001_Slippie_files/005_Parts.jpg

Okay, I'm not going to hijack Ryan's thread, but Ryan is directly responsible for that picture. :D

After I've made a little progress (I will take pictures along the way), and assuming I'm doing a reasonable job, I'll start a thread of my own. Then you guys can keep helping and prodding me along. ;)

Thanks for your confidence Ken, thanks for your material support and confidence Sean!, thanks to all posters who have offered advice and alternatives here, and Ryan thanks for such a great thread. This really is a fine thing you have going here and I hope you feel better soon. Take good care of yourself.

Ken Hurst
10-23-2009, 11:05 AM
Good clean picture Mr. Dave. I hope you do continue to collect pictures & post them --- good or bad, they will serve as a learning tool for many. You can show your success's as well as your mistakes & how they were acchieved. This is definitely a teaching aid for all. Remember, "your focus is your reality !" Go for it ol hoss......................

Sean Cochran
10-23-2009, 11:26 AM
Dave
Looks great so far. I have seen your work on straight knives and I must say Im a big fan. I think you will do just fine, plus there is a lot of help here, I know these great makers have been an incredible resource for me. Good Luck! Cant wait to see more pics.


Sean

Rusty McDonald
10-23-2009, 11:53 AM
I get a kick out of these wip threads,

now BACK TO WORK MORE PICS@!!!!!
LOL
useless1

Ryan Minchew
10-23-2009, 11:20 PM
Aaaahhh, back on this gentlemen, and thanks for the well wishes. Made it out of the quaranteen room and back to work today. Yesterday my in laws came to kidnap my little boy before he got sick, my wife has come down with the flu as well.

Here's a shot of my Texas Doll ram. A day or two before the good ole swine flu set in
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/goodcropwithsmile.jpg

Here's the king of the remote. Haven't got to hold the little turkey in a week, I went hunting for a couple of days then came down with the flu.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/7months006.jpg

I just got off the phone with Mr. Hurst. I was telling him I'm in the process of cutting the second pearl scale and will hopefully be posting pictures once I get off work tomorrow. Fingers crossed I'm making progress on this thing this weekend. And as long as I've been down you've caught up right Dave?

ddavelarsen
10-24-2009, 05:20 AM
Ryan welcome back! I'm sure glad you're over the hump. Thank goodness. Must have been the hippy vibes that did it. :)

And no man, what you see is as far as I've gotten. I need some tools which I haven't had the opportunity to order yet, and won't go any further until I get geared up a bit more. The other day I thought I collected all the stuff together to make a drop jig like Craig's. This morning I was looking for something else in my shop (couldn't find that, either) and realized that the dial indicator I was going to use was - the dial indicator box. So it turns out it's good I haven't sent my order to Travers yet as I'll be adding that to it. Sheesh, if I had all the stuff I've lost in my shop I could probably get someone else halfway set up. :rolleyes:

Anyway, Ryan take your time getting back into the day job/slip joint thing. No need to get tired and leave yourself open to relapse or pneumonia. Go easy. We're not going anywhere. :bud:

silver_pilate
10-24-2009, 10:32 AM
I think the docs made a mistake. You didn't have H1N1 swine flu, you had H1R1 Ram flu!

Good looking animal, and a great looking future knife maker. :D

Looking forward to seeing more of your work, Ryan. Take it easy getting back into the swing of it, though.

--nathan

Ryan Minchew
10-25-2009, 10:37 PM
I think the docs made a mistake. You didn't have H1N1 swine flu, you had H1R1 Ram flu!


--nathan

...well I did shoot a pig after the ram....:D

Thanks guys.

Well I have more bad news to report. I measured 500 times and cut the second scale too short. That's right I ruined a piece of black lip pearl at least for this knife. :o

I do have another set I'm working on roughing out for the other knife. I will post pictures of it while I hunt down another set for the first knife....:mad::mad::mad::mad:

ddavelarsen
10-26-2009, 04:19 AM
...well I did shoot a pig after the ram....:D

Thanks guys.

Well I have more bad news to report. I measured 500 times and cut the second scale too short. That's right I ruined a piece of black lip pearl at least for this knife. :o

I do have another set I'm working on roughing out for the other knife. I will post pictures of it while I hunt down another set for the first knife....:mad::mad::mad::mad:

Ah yes - the FUF. She's a constant visitor in my shop. I know what that's like. You will find another set of pearl for this knife, and the way these things work, it'll probably be nicer than the one you started with. Hang in there man.

Ryan Minchew
10-26-2009, 08:53 AM
Well I found another set, got em headed my way. And they are nice, but the price was not lol.........

ddavelarsen
10-26-2009, 09:20 AM
Price?! What matters Price? Dude, when you're doing work like this the cost of materials is insignificant (except to your immediate cash flow of course, which we all recognize. :D). Ryan, I hope you're recovering well and when the new pearl arrives you're ready to get back into it. I'm probably boring you all to death but this is one of my favorite WIP ever. Certainly the most immediately applicable. This is just flat out fine.

Thank you.

Ryan Minchew
10-27-2009, 10:05 PM
Ok got a little more done after getting home tonight. I had another set of blacklip for the other knife but decided to use it on this knife, they are the same knife so no big deal. THe other set is being shipped.
Tonight I rough cut the pearl the same as before (well not the EXACT same, I didn't mess up this time lol). Then I spot welded the bolsters.
Before I spot welded I flat sanded everything up to 220 grit.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives787.jpg
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives788.jpg
Next I used the clamps and pin stock to line everything up for where I wanted it spot welded.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives789.jpg
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives791.jpg
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives792.jpg
Next I spot welded. I've had to reshape my tips on the welder some, it was leaving huge divots. I made the bottom one flat and the top tip pointy and put that against the thin liner material. I still have a small divot, but nothing that's not removed by sanding. I counted to 2 then stopped welding. Seems to have done a good job.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives796.jpg
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives799.jpg
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives800.jpg
Next I flat sanded everything, you can still see the spot welds in the picture. I have been told to use a torch to heat to cherry red on 416 and this will help remove the hardness and spots. I haven't verified that yet so I'm doing some more research. Mr. Hurst just said to make sure I had pictures of where the spot welds were so that he would know where to expect them while engraving.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives802.jpg
Got em both done up. Bolsters were left a hair oversize for final shaping.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives805.jpg
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives807.jpg
Put it all back together to make sure everything is still lining up.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives809.jpg
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives810.jpg
Tomorrow I will show what I'm doing to get the pearl to fit the curve. It's a little tedious but I think it's going to work great.

Sean Cochran
10-27-2009, 10:28 PM
Glad to see you feeling better Ryan. Looking great, I cant wait to see it done. I really like the pins instead of nail nick.

What do you think Dave, pretty fun hanging around Ryans shop huh?

Rusty McDonald
10-28-2009, 12:17 AM
Just a suggestion but if you bring those liners up to a dull red with a torch those dots and hard spots will disappear. It also makes the liner shine a bit more when polished.

ddavelarsen
10-28-2009, 04:37 AM
Yeah Sean, Ryan's a great host. :) This is looking good!

Josh Dabney
10-28-2009, 08:03 AM
Ryan,
Thanks for doing such a great job and investing the time to do this WIP ! I know this is probably crazy as I'm only working on knife #6 and probably lack some of the proper tools but I ordered a couple GLWJ slippie kits from Tracy to make as Christmas gifts.

I'm not expecting a T.A. , Bose, McDonald, or Bump quality final product but hey, no guts no glory, right.

Anyway your WIP is going to be a huge help in getting at least a functional knife for the first go around so thank you again.

-Josh

Rusty McDonald
10-28-2009, 08:26 AM
Ryan,
Thanks for doing such a great job and investing the time to do this WIP ! I know this is probably crazy as I'm only working on knife #6 and probably lack some of the proper tools but I ordered a couple GLWJ slippie kits from Tracy to make as Christmas gifts.

I'm not expecting a T.A. , Bose, McDonald, or Bump quality final product but hey, no guts no glory, right.

Anyway your WIP is going to be a huge help in getting at least a functional knife for the first go around so thank you again.

-Josh

WOW! Im not close to being as good as those fellas, Thank you for the vote of confidence though. Ryan is doing a great job. I love to see updates to this post because I may learn something myself and well Slipjoints are cool. When I learned to make my first spotwelded bolstered liner, another maker(Wes Davis (http://www.wesdavisknives.com/folders.htm)) told me to do the very thing I told Ryan. Good luck on your build and show us your final product!

Ryan Minchew
10-28-2009, 09:13 PM
:D
Just a suggestion but if you bring those liners up to a dull red with a torch those dots and hard spots will disappear. It also makes the liner shine a bit more when polished.

That's what I had thought I remembered reading. Thanks! I did as Rusty suggested and then flat sanded again and didnt see the spots, seems to have done the trick. No pics, after this July I'm trying to be a bit more carefull with flames and such......:p

Josh Dabney glad you are enjoying this. These little things are frustrating, but I think that's why I keep trying to make em :D

I quoted Mr. Hurst a couple of completion times and have had to renig on them, because a few steps slowed me down and life/work have kept me out of the shop more than anticipated. He's told me not worry engravers are always waiting on knifemakers lol.


Dave and Sean I'd offer you a cold beer, but i'm not sure I have any. That's being a bad host :o






There's not a lot of pictures in this next set of the work I did tonight. what I'm doing now is getting the pearl to fit the curve of the bolster. It's slow and tedious, but it seems to be getting the results I wanted.
First off using the rough cut I fit the pearl to the handled and drew a couple of tick marks just to help me stay lined up. I marked from the bolster to the pearl.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives811.jpg
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives813.jpg
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives814.jpg
Up until this point all the rough cutting has been done by jewelers saw and needle files.
I kept placing it against the bolster and looking for the high spots. From there I would knock them down with the files. Here it is rough cut with files from the back side of the pearl.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives812.jpg
Now to how I'm final fitting it. You notice I haven't cut anything else on the pearl. Gives me some wiggle room leaving the excess for now.
I started with 220 grit sandpaper and cut some very small strips and wrapped it around the bolster like so
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives816.jpg
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives815.jpg
My next step was to place the pearl on the liner, lining up the tick marks
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives818.jpg
From here I used one hand to hold the sandpaper on the bolster and the other hand to pick up the pearl and rub it against the sandpaper making sure the tick marks where lined up. I just kept doing this and switching out sandpaper when it was dirty. Like I said slow and tedious.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives817.jpg

Here's a picture of the sandpaper, notice there's a spot in the middle that there is not much pearl dust. There's a slight dip in the pearl right there that I'm working on with 220 grit. I'm confident once I get the dip sanded out the other grits will go faster. I plan to take this up to 1000 grit. I'm just going to see what the fit is like as I go.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives819.jpg
As I go up in grit I will pay attention more to the dust build up underneath the pearl and how everything is lining up EXACT. For now I'm considering the 220 grit a rough fit and trying to work the dip out. I also haven't run the pearl on my flat granite plate yet. It is pretty close to flat from Culpepper, so I was just waiting until I had gone up in a few grits on the curved part.

Sean Cochran
10-28-2009, 10:57 PM
Just a suggestion but if you bring those liners up to a dull red with a torch those dots and hard spots will disappear. It also makes the liner shine a bit more when polished.

Rusty, I didnt know this thanks for the tip.

Sean

Sean Cochran
10-28-2009, 11:02 PM
[QUOTE=Ryan Minchew;23323

Dave and Sean I'd offer you a cold beer, but i'm not sure I have any. That's being a bad host :o [/QUOTE]

Ill buy Ryan2thumbs
Thats a pretty interesting way of working that pearl to the bolster, slow, but it should get it spot on.

Sean

ddavelarsen
10-29-2009, 04:25 AM
This attention to detail is one of the reasons I like knifemakers so much. Ryan, you're over the top and it's going to show so well! This is great.

If I weren't about to go to work, I'd just crack a cold one open right now. But I better not. :D

Ryan Minchew
10-29-2009, 09:45 PM
If I weren't about to go to work, I'd just crack a cold one open right now. But I better not. :D

Good call :D

Well not much to report tonight. Worked on sanding the pearl some more and got bolsters shaped for the second knife. This weekend I'll post pics of both knives together.

Ryan Minchew
11-01-2009, 10:11 PM
Ok I've been fitting pearl, and getting ready to relieve the liners. I'll show what I started doing as far as releiving the liners.
I use my etcher, to do this I need a pattern.
First I take my knife liner to 600 grit, this will be the final grit for the inside of the liner. I didn't make it perfect because I have to touch it up a little later on.
From here I measure to where I have a surface area for the blade to ride on. It has just a little bit of relief on the top. This way the scratches on the tang do not show when the knife is opened.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives820.jpg
Next using a piece of liner material that has the holes drilled in it (spring holes and pivot hole) I transfer the mark over.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives821.jpg
Next I place the blade on the good liner and line up the pivot holes. I measure over to the the start of the bevel.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives822.jpg
I then transfer that mark over to the scrap liner.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives823.jpg
next step is to place the spring on the scrap liner/pattern.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives825.jpg
I scribed a line over the spring to show where the spring sets when the knife is assembled
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives826.jpg
Next I blacked out the area that will be removed. The single black line drawn is just a reference point I made for the bottom of the spring.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives827.jpg
Next I've included a couple of rough drawings to show what not to do. I said to remove the solid black area, but watch out of the sharp corners. The middle chicken scratch is showing the sharp corners, the chicken scratch on the far right is how I will actually cut it out with a dremel. No sharp corners all rounded.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives828.jpg

I have to admit I let time get past me on this. Throughout making these knives I've been working on one or two others in case I messed one of these up. I got to a point and set them aside, but while I was waiting on the second set of pearl to come in I got them to the point of having bolsters as well. I planned on having all day to get the etched relief done on both knives, but it didn't happen. Work took longer than expected so I'm a little behind on where I planned on being this weekend.

Tomorrow I'll will show the cut pattern and what I do to transfer it over to the good liner.

Ryan Minchew
11-02-2009, 08:36 PM
Ok got a liner etched. I came up with etching with the etcher for a couple of reasons. I don't have a milling machine, and I like not having scratches on the tang. I had to come up with something. Also at the time I couldn't find any bronze washers less than .01" thick. Since then I've gotten some so I will be using those instead of etching. I've tried a dremel and metal scrapers and never got the results I wanted.
Last night I left off with the pattern drawn out. Now it's time to remove the area we want etched. I used a bandsaw, grinder, needle files, and dremel. When I got it to the shape I wanted I used 220 and 600 grit to remove burs and polish the edge.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives830.jpg
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives833.jpg
Got it close but not quiet there yet in these next pictures.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives838.jpg
Got it where I want it in the the next picture. Notice there are no sharp corners. They are rounded off. This allows the etcher to do a more even job. When I left sharp corners it didn't etch the corner as even as everywhere else. This gives a little more room for the etcher pad to make contact.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives841.jpg
Next I lay black electrical tape on the good liner. Also notice I cut out the end pin and the pivot pin using a sharp xacto knife.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives842.jpg
Next lay the pattern on top of the good liner. I used the end pin and pivot pins to line them up.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives843.jpg
I used a sharp xacto knife to cut the black tape. It left this on the good liner
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives844.jpg
My next step was to etch it. A couple of things here, I cover the pivot hole back up with tape so it doesn't get out of round, and I also measure using micrometers to get a base measurement of the thickness. I want to know how much I etch. I check it periodically.
Here it is with a black gunk build up. I have to clean this off with super fine steel wool everytime I want to measure.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives845.jpg
Here it is with the tape removed.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives847.jpg
I used windex and the steel wool and here it is after the fact. I removed an even .006".
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives849.jpg

One thing I have to watch is etching for too long. It burns up fuses which I did tonight. I have to get some more over the next day or two.

Cubane
11-02-2009, 08:43 PM
Looks great. I have been wondering on a good way to clean up the recessed bit after milling but I guess with etching you don't have that problem.

Ryan Minchew
11-02-2009, 08:45 PM
Looks great. I have been wondering on a good way to clean up the recessed bit after milling but I guess with etching you don't have that problem.

I guess you could use a dremel, but the finish left from the etcher doesn't bother me. I actually like the two tone look, it's not easy to see once assembled but still there.

jerrym103
11-02-2009, 08:47 PM
hi ryan, when you fit your pearl to your bolsters you need to use a 220grit lapping compound and swing the pearl back and forth until you get a perfect fit. Also, allways sand your pearl flat on the backside first that way when you finish lapping it will fit perfect. hope this helps.

Sean Cochran
11-03-2009, 05:38 AM
Ryan,
Its pretty amazing that you came up with that process for the liners, thats what Ive been waiting to see. That is very interesting, keep it up cant wait to see this one finished.

Sean

ddavelarsen
11-03-2009, 05:47 AM
I think I'm going to have to go the mill route, as I don't have an etcher (or spot welder; you guys have all the good stuff). But it looks like just a bit of relief is all that's really needed.

Ryan, given you're using washers do you really need to relieve the liners? Just curious. Naturally I'm also curious where you found them. Is their center hole 3/16 to go around the bushing?

Great thread man, you're doing a fantastic job of showing all the detail. Thanks.

Josh Dabney
11-03-2009, 06:24 AM
"Ryan, given you're using washers do you really need to relieve the liners?"


+1 , My question exactly Dave !

-Josh

Ryan Minchew
11-03-2009, 07:26 AM
Thanks guys. I misspoke there, I'm not using washers on this knife. I'm just using the bushing and relieved liners. I'm tring the washers on another knife without the relief. The washers have a 3/32" hole in them. Mike Miller gave me these washers, I will have to look again to see what the company name is on the bag.

Josh Dabney
11-03-2009, 08:08 AM
Just FYI guys,
USAknifemakers supply has washers of all different sizes and several different materials.

Just look under the heading Folding knife parts

http://www.usaknifemaker.com/store/folding-knife-parts-c-30.html

-Josh

Rusty McDonald
11-03-2009, 08:37 AM
They dont have any with a 3/32" hole Josh. They are hard to find.

Josh Dabney
11-03-2009, 08:56 AM
Rusty,

Ahh, That was my mistake. I was thinking 3/16's. They do have Phosphor Bronze sheet though so a fella coulds make his own custom washers in .005 .010 or .015

Sorry, I'm like a walking usaknifemakers catalog, LOL. Spend so much time spending all the money I got and dreaming of future purchases that I practically have what Tracy carries memorized.

-Josh

Ryan Minchew
11-05-2009, 09:44 PM
Looks like it's going to be this weekend before I get the right fuses for the etcher. In the mean time I decided to try some washers on the other slip joints and possibly have them ready for the Wannenmacher show.

By the way the washers were from Seastroms.

ddavelarsen
11-06-2009, 05:25 AM
Good luck at the show Ryan!

All my new tools came yesterday, so I'm about to review this honkin long thread to see what to do next - that's right, this morning. :D

mike miller
11-06-2009, 06:55 AM
I will look forward to seeing them in person. Ryan, will you be in the same area as the spring show?

Ryan Minchew
11-07-2009, 11:30 PM
I will look forward to seeing them in person. Ryan, will you be in the same area as the spring show?

Yes sir, are going to be in your same spot?

Sean Cochran
11-09-2009, 04:26 PM
Good luck at the show Ryan!

All my new tools came yesterday, so I'm about to review this honkin long thread to see what to do next - that's right, this morning. :D

Cant wait, Dave!2thumbs

Sean

ddavelarsen
11-09-2009, 05:07 PM
Me too Sean! :D I'm far enough along to need bushings...which of course I forgot to order since they'll have to come from another source. :rolleyes: Wouldn't it be nice to be able to buy everything we need at competitive prices from one place? :D Anyway, I'll have bushings soon.

I did start on my rise/fall indicator. Have you ever tried drawing a circle with an Etch-a-Sketch? That's what it's like for me trying to mill a circle for the dial indicator to set in. :D I never could draw worth a dang.

Ryan Minchew
11-10-2009, 12:35 AM
Me too Sean! :D I'm far enough along to need bushings...which of course I forgot to order since they'll have to come from another source. :rolleyes: Wouldn't it be nice to be able to buy everything we need at competitive prices from one place? :D Anyway, I'll have bushings soon.

I did start on my rise/fall indicator. Have you ever tried drawing a circle with an Etch-a-Sketch? That's what it's like for me trying to mill a circle for the dial indicator to set in. :D I never could draw worth a dang.

What and no pictures of the rise and fall indicator ban1:D

Well I got some more fuses yesterday afternoon. I've etched the relief on both of the black lip knives and started on the others that I've been working on. I may have a couple of these done for the show to recoup the cost of that blacklip i may or may not have broke......:o

ddavelarsen
11-10-2009, 02:45 AM
:D Well, lemme finish it first, then I'll look for a photo angle that hides the worst of my childish milling job. That's if it even works, which is still iffy at this point. But it's fun, I'll give you that.

Good luck at the show Ryan. Wish I were going to be there.

burchtree
11-15-2009, 07:07 PM
Looking good! What did you use to spot-weld?

Ryan Minchew
11-16-2009, 06:42 PM
Looking good! What did you use to spot-weld?


I used the 220 volt spot welder from Harbor Freight. I waited until they were on sale. It had to sharp poin copper leads, but I reshaped them to more of a dome so that the dimples wouldn't be as big and deep when I did spot weld.

I'll be working on these two tonight some when I get home.

Ryan Minchew
11-18-2009, 09:28 PM
Ok I got kinda wrapped up in the knife and didn't have much time tonight anyway so I didn't take as many pictures as I should have.
First off I put the knife together (no pearl attatched yet still getting all that fit) to check my back spring in all three positions. I haven't messed with it yet because it was so close.
I was only high when closed so I took some off the bottom of the blade. This is an older picture but illustrates where I took material off. I did it VERY slowly
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives573.jpg
I also worked on making dang sure my liners where flat. On the knives I finished I just flat sanded them. After getting them together I realized after talking to Todd that I also need to adjust some by bending so I have to do some bending on one liner. Sorry no pictures

Next up I wanted these to have a little lighter pull than the finished knives so I started removing material on the spring. I would do a small amount with the dremel then try it. I was amazed at how little it took to lessen the pull. I was carefull not to make any sharp corners and didn't want to get into the area where the kick rested when closed. That would have caused the blade to dip more. You can see the area from the pivot pin towards the end that I have a dip in where I removed material.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives851.jpg

Other than that I've been polishing blade flats and fitting that dang pearl.

I also finished a couple and here they are
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives203.jpg
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives215.jpg
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives219.jpg

Ryan Minchew
11-19-2009, 10:17 PM
I am still working on the pearl shaping, but this is the process I'm using.
I used 220 grit to get it to where there where no dips and jags from files or the jewelers saw.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives852.jpg
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives853.jpg
Up until this point I had not flat sanded the pearl. My main concern until this point was getting the piece roughed in. Here I marked the back with lines to show where I had high and low spots after flat sanding. The dark spots colored in were low spots I could feel with my finger.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives855.jpg
Here I have sanded to 800 grit. Notice there is still a spot in the middle that is black. That spot measures .002" thinner than everywhere else. It is hidden by the liner and the glue I will be using works better with a few thousandths gap underneath.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives856.jpg
Ok I did 220 grit sandpaper, now I have it clamped up in a vice to hold steady so that I can make sure my tic marks are lined up dead on every time. From here I used coarse valve grinding compound. You can see a bit of it on the pearl.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives857.jpg
I worked this for a good bit, cleaning it several times and checking fit.
After this I wrapped 400 grit sandpaper around the bolster like the 220 and gave a few quick swipes with it.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives859.jpg
Next I had a bit of fine valve grinding compound and put that on the pearl and moved it up and down the bolster to make sure it was good and lapped in. Notice I still have tic marks.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives860.jpg
From here I check fit again with no compound.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives862.jpg
Just for added confidence I put flitz on the bolster and worked the pearl with flitz for a good while.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives861.jpg
I was happy with the fit, especially seeing how rough it was with the jewelers cut and the files.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives863.jpg
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives864.jpg
Only a couple more bolsters to go....takes forever

Sean Cochran
11-20-2009, 05:19 AM
Ryan
Thats a great looking knife. I can see the time you put into it. Keep it up!

ddavelarsen
11-20-2009, 05:50 AM
I have never considered going to such lengths to get good fit. That is amazing, and like everything else I learn around here, raises the bar for my future work.

I'm glad you're back, guys! I missed Sean as much as Ryan. :)

Sean Cochran
11-20-2009, 12:05 PM
I'm glad you're back, guys! I missed Sean as much as Ryan. :)

Ive been very busy Dave, with natural gas prices up this last quarter everyone is trying to get a hole in the ground. Its good for business but all these hours at a "real job" have been cutting into my knife making time. Most of the rigs are shutting down for the holiday so I should get some work in the next couple of weeks. I have about got my new grinder (KMG clone) finished, just ordered wheels and things from Tracy. Im pretty pumped about that. On another good note, just had a customer call to let me know today that he just used one of my knives on a deer and was so pleased he wanted to order another one.2thumbs

Anyway enough rambing from me. Lets see some pics Dave.;)

burchtree
11-20-2009, 05:49 PM
I've consulted this thread about 5 times today as I put together my first slippy. Thanks a ton!

ddavelarsen
11-20-2009, 05:58 PM
Sean I can sure appreciate the part about work getting in the way of your calling. My job drains everything I have during the week, which leaves weekend mornings for me in the shop. Today, I made larger-than-life dice for a gigantic Monopoly game we're going to use for the department Christmas party at work. We take our capitalism seriously! :D I've made this whole game, the board is about 12 feet square and the dice are 6" cubes. :) I also made "big money" last night. So that's my shop time for this weekend.

On top of that, I still haven't gotten the bushings for my knife; keep forgetting to order them at work. K&G's website CC processing link is not secure (just "http" rather than "https"), so I'm not going to order from their website... So I have to call, which I keep forgetting to do. But anyway, I'm still making my rise/fall jig, so some progress is happening. No pics yet though.

Last weekend my mill shifted its depth somehow and screwed up the cut I was making, so I have to figure out why that happened before I ruin all my work so far. Yikes! If it ain't one thing, it's something else. The FUF loves me and my shop. So I'm seldom lonely. Or straightforwardly successful. :)

Sean Cochran
11-20-2009, 06:19 PM
I hear ya Dave, I call my shop FUF central.:D

ddavelarsen
11-20-2009, 07:46 PM
I think you need a sign! :D

Mine says, "Beggar's Tomb."

ddavelarsen
11-20-2009, 07:48 PM
I've consulted this thread about 5 times today as I put together my first slippy. Thanks a ton!

Man you're so far ahead of me already! I can't wait to see that first one. Please, if you think of it, because I don't browse this forum as much as I'd like, point me personally to your thread when you get ready to have one. I mean, PM me or something so I don't miss it. Okay? Really.

burchtree
11-21-2009, 07:00 AM
Man you're so far ahead of me already! I can't wait to see that first one. Please, if you think of it, because I don't browse this forum as much as I'd like, point me personally to your thread when you get ready to have one. I mean, PM me or something so I don't miss it. Okay? Really.

Will do! On this first one I'm screwing it together like a little girl. :haha:

Josh Dabney
11-21-2009, 07:29 AM
Just wanna thank Ryan one more time for this WIP ! I've got my first slippie together peened and in good working order. :)

This thread is so complete and detailed that with it even a newbie can make a slip joint and get stisfactory results

Excellent Ryan ! -Josh

ddavelarsen
11-21-2009, 11:05 AM
Will do! On this first one I'm screwing it together like a little girl. :haha:

Man that's funny! :D


Just wanna thank Ryan one more time for this WIP ! I've got my first slippie together peened and in good working order. :)

This thread is so complete and detailed that with it even a newbie can make a slip joint and get stisfactory results

Excellent Ryan ! -Josh

Congratulations! We'd all love to see your knife, don't be shy! :) And you're right, this is the best WIP I've ever seen and it's going to be my bible for a long time to come.


2thumbs to Ryan! :D

Ryan Minchew
11-21-2009, 09:42 PM
I hear ya Dave, I call my shop FUF central.:D

We may very well work in the same shop:D

Guys glad to hear this is helping someone. Be carefull though Burchtree my way might set you further behind:o I do it a little backwards sometimes.

Ryan Minchew
11-21-2009, 09:43 PM
Just wanna thank Ryan one more time for this WIP ! I've got my first slippie together peened and in good working order. :)

This thread is so complete and detailed that with it even a newbie can make a slip joint and get stisfactory results

Excellent Ryan ! -Josh

Pictures or ban1 :p

Sean Cochran
11-21-2009, 10:16 PM
Pictures or ban1 :p

Much in agreement.:D

ddavelarsen
11-22-2009, 05:53 AM
That's a good way of putting it gents, +1. :D

Josh Dabney
11-22-2009, 09:47 AM
Please please no ban1 :eek:
I didn't wanna hijack Ryans thread here but the threat of ban has changed my mind, LOL :D

This is a Zulu pattern from GLWJ
3/32 ATS-34, in house HT to Rc 60-61 with dry ice cryo.
.040 410 SS liners
1/8" 416 SS pins
Carmel Micarta scales sanded to 1000 then buffed with white compound
Nail nick hand cut with Dremel
Spring flush in all three positions
Snaps open and closed nicely
Blade lays to one side in the closed position :( At least it doesn't touch the liner though. I'm thinking I can fix this next time by surface grinding the blade (on flat platen) before drilling and reaming the pin hole

I did some things out of order purposely on this one. I decided to assemble the whole works before doing any hand sanding on the bevels or etching makers mark. I didn't wanna invest alot of hand finishing time on a knife that could have potentially turned out unsatisfactory in the function dept. so the finish is not going to be the best on this one :o

Yall ought to like this one... I intended on doing 416SS bolsters on this knife. Cut out the material and needed to solder them on. Didn't have any flux or money but had some Rosin Core silver solder so I figured I'd give it a shot. Clamped with vise grips, put in vise, hit with Mapp Gas. The result.... A beautiful 3/8" liquid silver orb rolling around on the bolster lol. You know the rest of the story.... liquid solder to the concrete floor 2thumbs Only one speck of the "splash" got my ankle so no harm done. It's funny how a miserable failure like this really made me laugh and smile and say the heck with bolsters and stag, why not shadow pattern.

I just snapped a couple pics to show you guys and will try to get better ones when the hand sanding is finished.

http://i570.photobucket.com/albums/ss147/joshdabney/slippie1001.jpg
http://i570.photobucket.com/albums/ss147/joshdabney/slippie1002.jpg
http://i570.photobucket.com/albums/ss147/joshdabney/slippie1003.jpg

Let me know what yall, Think -Josh

T.A. DAVISON
11-22-2009, 10:32 AM
Josh,

There is a lot to these to get them to work right and to get the blade to close dead center.
Keep up the good work, you got a nice looking shadow there. - congrats. :)

Todd


.

ddavelarsen
11-22-2009, 01:25 PM
Josh that's awesome man! Since you don't like it enough, feel free to send it on to me for proper disposal. ;) I'll make sure it gets the proper treatment. Like in the pocket of my chinos! You're an inspiration, thanks for sharing. 2thumbs

burchtree
11-22-2009, 02:22 PM
That looks nice! I broke my backspring in two yesterday. :o

Sean Cochran
11-22-2009, 02:24 PM
Looks great Josh. I sometimes have a hard time centering the blade too. You have to make sure it is ground evenly on both sides, make sure the liners are dead flat (sometimes you may have to bend them a little). Also one thing I have found is be very careful when peening, especially the pivot (at least in one with no bushing) it would surprise you how much the blade will move from one side to the other.

Keep it up!

Sean

Ryan Minchew
11-23-2009, 10:07 PM
Dang Josh, you have turned out some awesome work with just the few knives you've done. Thanks for posting the pictures. Stories like your soldering story are why i bought the spot welder, I couldn't pull it off lol.

Burch you have an idea of why it snapped? Too much preload, bad heat treat? Just curious got any pics in progress ?!?!?!?!?!

ddavelarsen
11-24-2009, 04:37 AM
You gotta watch that Josh Dabney - that cat is fearless and possesses scary skilz... :D

Josh Dabney
11-24-2009, 08:30 AM
Thanks for the votes of confidence guys !
I really appreciate it.

-Josh

Ryan Minchew
11-29-2009, 07:40 PM
Nothing to update, put way way way too many hours in at work this week. I got a few hours saturday off and spent it watching a college football with my wife and hanging out with my little boy. Hope ya'll had a great Thanksgiving and if ya'll have any pictures to show of slip joints feel free to post em. I haven't had time to work on em so I enjoy lookin at em. I know Sean posted a great looking elk slippie in the gallery.

Sean Cochran
11-29-2009, 08:43 PM
Thanks Ryan, I know what you mean about alot of hours. Take care of that family, and yes I had a great thanksgiving, hope eveyone else did too.

Sean

ddavelarsen
11-30-2009, 04:04 AM
A great looking elk slippie in the gallery? Excuse me a minute while I go check that out...

Ryan Minchew
12-08-2009, 10:40 PM
Ah I dang near forgot what the inside of the knife shop looked like. Since Thanksgiving I've spent hours and hours guiding hunts (I work on a hunting ranch).

Not much done, but I do have the pearl fit to the bolsters. Now I'm getting ready to knock the bolsters down to the right thickness.
My next step was to line up my tic marks and trace the under side so that I can lay the pearl on there roughly where I want it. Tic marks would have worked by themselves, but I like having more than one line up.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives877.jpg
Next I dye chemed the bolsters.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives876.jpg
I laid the pearl on the knife in the right spot. You can see the difference in thickness here.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives878.jpg
In this next picture I hope you can see the line I made with a xacto knife blade to mark where the pearl came up to. My next step after this will be to grind down to the line and start shaping bolsters more.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives879.jpg
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives880.jpg

Ryan Minchew
12-08-2009, 10:41 PM
It's so cold in my shop the dye chem was freezing to the liner instead of drying. I'm from west Texas, this panhandle cold stuff is throwing me for a loop lol.

ddavelarsen
12-09-2009, 04:29 AM
Nice to see you back Ryan! I hate to think what guiding is like in that cold weather... Yikes! We're more used to that here, but -- I don't go outside much when it's like it is today.

We got around 14" of snow yesterday, and today the wind is kicking up to 20-40 mph. Blizzard conditions throughout the state. That makes me think clearing off the driveway will be good exercise and nothing else. :D

I'm really looking forward to your progress on these knives! I've spent some time going back over your work, getting it settled in my mind. My shop has been abandoned for a while too. I'll get free one day and get back down there though! Meanwhile, you can be my knifemaking proxy. :)

Ryan Minchew
12-09-2009, 11:42 PM
14" of snow, I don't think I've ever seen more than 10". Bad deal with all this cold weather, is that we didn't get any moisture.

I got some shaping of the boslters done tonight. I'll post up some pictures tomorrow night.

Ryan Minchew
12-10-2009, 11:48 PM
Just started thinning bolters here. I beveled the edges to about the thickness I wanted and started flattening.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives881.jpg
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives884.jpg
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives882.jpg

ddavelarsen
12-11-2009, 02:46 PM
Thanks Ryan!

Sean Cochran
12-11-2009, 09:51 PM
Pretty good to be hanging in Ryan's shop again aint it Dave?

14" of snow, better you than me.

Sean

ddavelarsen
12-12-2009, 10:39 PM
Agreed! :D I think Ryan's shop, regardless whether he provided any brews, would be preferable to shoveling snow, any day! The city finally got our street cleared today and I got the last round of snow from the plow off our driveway. That's a relief. Maybe it won't snow again for a couple days.

Then again, if I were to get good and snowed in I'd eventually get the honey-do list caught up and might get some shop time. Hm...

:D

Ryan Minchew
01-01-2010, 10:37 AM
Well after taking a haitus from everything but work I'm back. I hope everyone had a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year.

I got the bolsters flat sanded. I wanted to get them just a hair thinner than the mop so that they could be sanded flat together and the mop would be more soft than the metal.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives886.jpg
here you can see the bolster is still higher than the mop
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives891.jpg
closer
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives890.jpg
and it doesn't show it well here but the mop is actually taller than the bolster
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives889.jpg
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives888.jpg
Next I'll be taking the bolster from the 220 grit it's at to a 600 grit hand polish, then rough cutting the mop, glueing the mop up to the liners, drilling holes, then shaping the mop to the liners better. That's the plan for the weekend anyway. Take care

Limbbender
01-03-2010, 09:10 PM
Ryan, Great Chatting with you tonight. Looks like you are off to a great start this New Year. I just finished reading this entire thread and sure wish I had all the equipment I needed to start a project like this. Here's to hoping! I can't wait to see how it turns out.

Dave

Ryan Minchew
01-03-2010, 09:14 PM
Well I got the bolsters up to 600 grit before glueing up. This wasn't really necessary because I had the MOP a little proud of the bolster so that I could sand it down flush and get rid of any surface chips. It was more to let me know that the spot weld spots weren't going to show when polished. Once the mop was applied and polished up it would have been too late.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives892.jpg
Next I used 60 grit sandpaper and a dremel to rough up the scale and the liner.
I think you can see both pretty good here.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives894.jpg
Afterwards I gave it a good swipe with acetone, and made sure I marked my outline with an xacto knife so I could remark it with a sharpie. Forgot to take pictures here.
Next I wrapped a piece of flat steel with saran wrap, I would have used wax paper but we didn't have any in the house. From here I sprayed down the liner and the MOP with Loctite 7075 and let it set a few minutes.

Next step was to place a couple of pieces of thin paper on the liner. I used this so that I did not squeeze out all of the glue with the clamps.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives898.jpg
Next I applied 324 Loctite glue and glue it up and placed it on the flat steel. I don't know if it could warp, but I didn't want to take any chances.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives901.jpg

It adheres in just a few minutes, but I"m going to go ahead and leave it overnight before I try the drilling tomorrow.

Ryan Minchew
01-03-2010, 09:15 PM
I also have a new toy I have no idea how to use just yet. It's a Kuhlmann 1/2 milling pantograph. I"ve got a couple of ideas for some slip joints with no pins showing. Jerry McClure is going to be giving me some lessons.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives897.jpg

Phil Evans
01-04-2010, 06:58 AM
Great WIP. This really gives people like me who don't know a lot about slip joints some great tips, ideas, instruction,... Thank You for your post. Phil

Ryan Minchew
01-05-2010, 12:07 AM
Ryan, Great Chatting with you tonight. Looks like you are off to a great start this New Year. I just finished reading this entire thread and sure wish I had all the equipment I needed to start a project like this. Here's to hoping! I can't wait to see how it turns out.

Dave


Hey glad to see ya over here, great talking with you too. Stick around here, it's a great forum.

Phil thanks for the comments. I'm still learning at this as well, it's been one big learning process.

Well I have some more done tonight. First off I put masking tape on the back of the liner last night before I glued it, I should have shown that. But here it is all glued up and dried.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives902.jpg
Next I went about shaping the pearl to the liners. I've been told work it slow, work it wet, and work it with 220 grit or higher to avoid chipping. I also wore my respirator.
To work it wet instead of plumbing something onto my grinder I took a wad of rags wet rags and dampened the belt, kept a bucket of water at the grinder, and after every two to three seconds of being on the grinder I would use the sopping wet rags to wet down the pearl. I thought it would be slow, but it was actually a quick process. I took my resirator off to see if I was smelling any of the pearl and it seemed I was keeping it wet enough to keep dust down.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives903.jpg
Here it is roughed in, I'll get it exact when it's semi together with the other side.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives904.jpg
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives906.jpg
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives907.jpg

Last step of the night I got ready to drill the holes. Notice I did sand down the pearl to meet the bolster, I"m wanting to drill the holes first. This way if I chip any of the holes I have a little material to take off to get rid of the chips.
I used masking tape and applied it over the pearl. I rubbed my fingers over the tape several times to really bond the tape to the pearl. In the next couple of nights I plan on drilling holes in the pearl on both sides.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives909.jpg

joe sangster
01-08-2010, 08:47 PM
After following Ryan's excellent tutorial . I decided that I could build one ,too. Here is my 1st slipjoint . I decided I would start off simple eith a linerless. I used G-10 & ATS-34 . It actually works !!! Thanks , Ryan . I could not have done it without your help.

Joe Sangster

http://www.fototime.com/2C1BCB160DDFD85/standard.jpg

http://www.fototime.com/6AA349F6566AE21/standard.jpg

http://www.fototime.com/4551396D3892216/standard.jpg

http://www.fototime.com/8DF61227A76A4B9/standard.jpg

Sean Cochran
01-08-2010, 11:13 PM
Careful Joe, youll get hooked on slipjoints.:)

Sean

ddavelarsen
01-09-2010, 03:58 AM
You are shaming me Joe! :D Nice work. Go ahead and get hooked. 2thumbs

wagglebee
01-09-2010, 04:29 PM
Joe that looks great for a first try!

Craig
01-10-2010, 12:13 AM
Ryan this is a good looking knife, and a fine job on the WIP. Now you have several getting hooked on the slipjoints.

2thumbs

JAWilliams
01-10-2010, 01:17 PM
Ryan after I get my shop wired I am going to have to call you. Getting an itch that I can't scratch and will need some talkin to.

Ryan Minchew
01-10-2010, 05:19 PM
Joe awesome first attempt. How much hair do you have left? lol
Thanks Craig, it's slow going with my job, but I'm getting there.
James sounds good, give me a hollar when you are ready.


Well the big day has come drilling. This whole WIP has made me nervous as can be, at least when I'm not taking pictures I can hide my attempts and no one can see what I screwed up before I got it right. Today I drilled 2 of the holes, this has made me more nervous than anything, I didn't want to blow a hole in the mop I couldn't fix. Plus I've already messed up one set earlier on that I mentioned, that gets expensive quick. I read and reread directions on the net and talked to a good friend of mine Jerry Mcclure about it.
Run the drill fast, put masking tape on it firmly, back it with wood or micarta, and keep it wet.

First I pulled the masking tape off of the liner side and made sure the tape on the MOP side was stuck good. I also gathered up a piece of micarta to back it with.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives910.jpg\
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives911.jpg
Next I gathered my piece of square tubing to clamp the liner and micarta to. I use this to have more flexibility when clamping down to the drill press table and it also helps when dealing with not flat surfaces.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives912.jpg
Here it is after the drilling operation, I got a little excited and nearly had it off the table before I took a picture. I used a spray bottle and sprayed the bit a couple of times and pulled it up and down several times to clear chips out.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives913.jpg
Now I couldn't just drill another hole without peeking so here goes nuttin
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives914.jpg
WOOHOO one very small shallow chip, but that didn't hole true for the next hole......
The next hole did chip out some, but earlier on I said I left the mop a little thick and proud of the bolster for this reason. I didn't take a picture because I was a little frustrated, but I sanded it down on the grinder slowly using a wet paper towel and a 320 grit belt. It removed the chip out and looks nice.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives915.jpg
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives916.jpg

What stinks is I have only done one side, I still have to do the other.........

JAWilliams
01-10-2010, 05:50 PM
Ryan looks good and remember the fastest things made in the shop are mistakes. Slow and easy.

Sean Cochran
01-10-2010, 06:09 PM
Ryan
Looking real good. Ive never used MOP, but you make it look easy.:)
Doing a WIP is kind of nerve racking aint it? Cant wait to see this one done.

Sean

Ryan Minchew
01-10-2010, 10:00 PM
Getting a little closer, got both sides drilled. This one chipped on me some too, but not bad here it is mocked up
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives917.jpg
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives918.jpg

papi
01-11-2010, 02:06 AM
Looks awesome :)
Mop and other pearls can be a ***** to work with, but the end result is definitely worth the trouble, i'm sure the knife will look superb when you're done with it

Ondrej

Ryan Minchew
01-12-2010, 10:47 PM
Thanks Papi,
I've done a little work shaping the pearl closer to the liners, and also catching the second knife up to this point. Might get a little shop time in this weekend.

JAWilliams
01-13-2010, 12:07 AM
Do you drill at high speed or low with MOP?

Bill Vining
01-13-2010, 05:38 AM
Great WIP Ryan. Thanks for sharing this with us. It's always nice to see the procedures other makers use to make their knives.

Ryan Minchew
01-27-2010, 09:40 PM
Thanks guys. JAWilliams I drilled at high speed, everyone recommended that to me.
Been out with hunting groups one right after the other should have some more to post this weekend.

James I will call you, I haven't been home at a decent hour to do so.

JAWilliams
01-29-2010, 06:59 AM
Should be home all weekend and looking forward to the call.

Ken Hurst
02-02-2010, 11:25 AM
Congrats on one hellofa knife , you should be very proud !! Also, congrats on being interesting enough to build up a 23 page following ................

Ryan Minchew
02-02-2010, 09:55 PM
Congrats on one hellofa knife , you should be very proud !! Also, congrats on being interesting enough to build up a 23 page following ................


Thanks, with my real job it's going slow. Hunting season will be done soon and this knife will be right after. Then headed your way. It's been a slow journey but it'll get there. Thanks for the patience

mike miller
03-13-2010, 08:47 AM
Ryan you should get this finished before turkey season starts. I know you will be busy then. See you in Tulsa.

cardoso5fr
03-13-2010, 10:44 AM
Cool WIP. Thank you for sharing.

Ryan Minchew
03-15-2010, 08:30 PM
Ryan you should get this finished before turkey season starts. I know you will be busy then. See you in Tulsa.

:D dang turkeys bout time to brush up on some calling.

Well yes I have actually been in the shop. WHen I left off I had drilled the mother of pearl. It chipped out some and also I had left the mop a little higher (proud) of the bolsters. This was so that I could lay it on the flat platten and grind it down flush and also do away with the chipped out areas at the same time. You can't tell it but I've done 220 grit and 320 grit here. I used the same method I have been. I wet a paper towel and every few seconds I douse the mop with it. Never let it get hot or too much dust build up.
220 grit
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives941.jpg
320 grit
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives937.jpg

Also the knife has a pull that's a little too strong. To weaken it I used a dremel and a sanding drum. I took out material in the area pointed out below. Notice there are no sharp corners. It's all smooth and it doesn''t take much. I did it a couple of times and will probably do it just a hair more.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives935.jpg

Another thing I didn't get a picture of, but tried after reading the forums. Earlier in the thread I talked about flat sanding and polishing the flat part of the spring that the back square rides on. Well I noticed it was galling and not as smooth as I thought it should be. I read were guys were using a scotch brite belt in this area to help "hold" oil for lubrication. It seems to have all but eliminated the galling. Really made a difference. I also did it on the area of the blade that touch the spring.


I may not have been posting, but I've been reading while waiting on guest and what not.



I couldn't get it to show up in the pictures, but I've gotten the edges up to 400 grit on the machine. Notice I don't have the blade in here. It gets too close to the kick area while polshing some of these parts on the grinder.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives934.jpg

One other thing I worked on was the sharp edges of the pearl. All along I've planed to round them off to help prevent chipping. I used a 400 grit belt then went over them with the scotch brite.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives940.jpg

It's got a couple of dips, but I will be taking these out when doing my hand sanding.

And last but not least, the blade and spring. I have them to a point that I'm ready to start polishing them. The blade will get a mirror finish and I will work on bringing the grind line up higher as well.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives942.jpg

Hmm sorry about the blurry pictures. I've something set wrong...again.

mike miller
03-15-2010, 09:36 PM
The "brains around me" tell me not to sand the spring or tang above a 400 grit finish or it will gall. I hand rub 400. I come back to what you have done and have done a couple of folders now. Not as fancy as your just shadow patterns.

Ryan Minchew
03-16-2010, 10:58 PM
The "brains around me" tell me not to sand the spring or tang above a 400 grit finish or it will gall. I hand rub 400. I come back to what you have done and have done a couple of folders now. Not as fancy as your just shadow patterns.

I noticed you had to put brains in these"". :D

Thanks for the tip the more I read the less I liked the idea of a polished spring.

I've been doing some polishing tonight I'll post up some pictures tomorrow.

Superbad
03-24-2010, 10:15 PM
This has been an inspirational thread! I have a GLWJ wharncliffe trapper kit on it's way to me now. I really appreciate all the work that has gone into this thread. I am much more hopeful since finding this tutorial.

mike miller
03-28-2010, 09:49 PM
I can always rely on Jerald or Rick to come through when I have a question.

Ryan Minchew
04-06-2010, 11:00 PM
I can always rely on Jerald or Rick to come through when I have a question.


I'm going to have Jerald on his toes this weekend :D

No I have not forgotten about this, I've been working on some problems that were showing up and mirror polishing the blade it's going to be done soon2thumbs2thumbs2thumbs

Ryan Minchew
04-19-2010, 10:04 PM
Polishing now
I did put the blade back on the grinder and took the grind line higher. I left the grinder with a 600 grit finish then sanded the flats to 600 grit.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives946.jpg
Still had the spring sticking up when closed. Using a 600 grit belt I removed some from the bottom of the tang
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives948.jpg
Polishing up the handle. I am taking the bolsters to 600 grit but will go higher with the pearl. Right now the entire piece is at 600 grit.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives949.jpg

mike miller
05-23-2010, 09:33 PM
Well Ryan do we get to see a finished knife some day???????

Ken Hurst
05-25-2010, 03:18 PM
It's been a long wait but I'm chomping at the bit to get started on the engraving !!!


Ryan, please call me at 910-221-5288 re. this project. Ken

Ryan Minchew
05-26-2010, 08:17 AM
So close, but those little bronze bushings are going to be the death of me. Mr Hurst I don't know what time it will be but I will call you later this evening. Thanks ryan

Ryan Minchew
06-01-2010, 07:16 PM
Ok some pictures will be posted tonight or tomorrow night. It's not finished but in the final stages of polish before it's hammered together. Also still waiting on gold for the pins.

One thing I've had to do a couple times so far is make a new bushing. Putting these things together has caused them to deform that I have to make a new bushing every once in while. I won't be doing anymore with the bushings. I like consistancy and I have spent way to long fighting with bushings to make em consistant. If I order 20 bushings no two have been the same in measurement. Some are way to big o.d. some are way smaller than the .1875 I hope for. Some slide over a 3/32 pin and some don't and that's where my real trouble starts. I know a lot of guys like em, but I've put too many hours in fighting them and I don't feel I'm gaining anything for it.

Ryan Minchew
06-02-2010, 09:33 PM
Got some pics.
The first is showing how I have it clamped up and polishing the tang to 600 grit.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/P6010872.jpg
The next are just some shots during polishing. I use the mobil 1 like my good buddy Frank Niro suggested. I like it.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/P6010874.jpg
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/P6010873.jpg
In this next shot you can see some white shavings. That is buffing compound. As I go up in grits I take and heat the buffing compound and wipe a paper towel over it so that it smears onto the paper towel. I then hand buff the blade. This helps me see imperfections better as I go up in grits. I'll do the same on the final grit but with a slightly different method since I don't have a buffer.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/P6010871.jpg

Next is polishing up the handles to 2000 grit then buffing with flitz. The bolsters are finished out to 600 grit running parallel at this point. While polishing the handles that will mess them up a bit, but I'll show later on how I fix that.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/P6010875.jpg
In this next photo the scale on the right is buffed out. It doesn't show up in the picture, in fact it might even look opposite. But in person the scale on the right looks completely different than the scale on the left.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/P6010879.jpg

Ken Hurst
06-04-2010, 12:45 PM
Ryan --- you're killing me !!! Every picture you post gets better looking each time. Hope I can do it justice. Ken

mike miller
06-09-2010, 06:47 AM
Ryan we are still watching!!!!!!!!!

Ryan Minchew
06-09-2010, 11:44 PM
Ryan we are still watching!!!!!!!!!

waitin on gold wire

longgunner97
06-12-2010, 10:09 PM
Very good WIP. I cant wait to see the finished knife.I have always wanted to build a slip joint folder and now you have givin me the inspiration to do it,but it will be awhile before I can.I'm in the middle of moving from Kentucky to Georgia and have to get a shop build before I can do any more knife making.I hate moving and I swear this is the last time I am moving.

mike miller
06-12-2010, 10:19 PM
longgunner97 you just need to do like I did. I moved have a 1380 sq ft house and a 1400 foot finished shop.

longgunner97
06-13-2010, 12:03 AM
LOL.... My plans are to build a shop with half of it for my knife and woodworking working tools and the other half a garage where I can work on my vehicles since our house has a car port I may utilize part of it to set up a couple tools until I can get my shop built.Gotta get everything moved and takin care of first though.

Ryan Minchew
06-15-2010, 08:19 PM
Shop? They're overrated......Mine's only aboue 6 by 7 feet. Maybe a hair bigger. One of these days it'll be ALOT bigger.

Ok. Today wasn't my day. I chipped the blacklip around a pin hole. I had the knife together and taking the middle pin out I saw a flake fall and it took me ten minutes before I could flip the knife over. The chip was bad, but I got most of it sanded back out. The words I said aren't even appropriate for a sailors forum, but I guess this is part of it.

http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives951.jpg

The reason the knife was together is because the more I looked at the corner of the bolsters the more I disliked them. I thought they were too rounded so I squared them off a bit. I still have a hair more to go.
Before
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives906.jpg
after
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives953.jpg

J S Machine
06-30-2010, 07:08 AM
Waiting to see this one finished ryan. I got my st. jude knife done and it is in Paul Long's shop at the moment getting a sheath made. I am now ready to start on a few slip joints myself. I ordered some blade steel yesterday and some SS bolster material as well. This tutorial as well as a few others have been very helpful in getting me pointed in the right direction.

Bgbdwolf
06-30-2010, 08:45 AM
Good pictures and narration.

mosto
07-02-2010, 05:35 AM
oh wow!

Ryan Minchew
07-05-2010, 08:36 PM
Well I'm baaaccckkk. The computer got nailed by a virus and i've been without for a while.

Got some new pictures to show.
First off is the polishing. I took it to 2000 grit first with oil, then with windex. From there I used a microfiber cloth and rubbed flitz polish on the blade.
2000 grit
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives036.jpg
flitz
flitz on the worn 2000 grit paper
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives038.jpg
As of now I do not own a buffer, mainly due to I don't like buffers. I work around all kinds of dangerous stuff and yet the buffer still scares the crap out of me.
Instead I rub a little buffing compound on a microfiber cloth and rub that on the blade. Sometimes I will run a torch over the compound for just a second to warm it enough to wipe onto the cloth.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives038.jpg
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives040.jpg
after rubbing
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives041.jpg
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives042.jpg

Ryan Minchew
07-05-2010, 08:43 PM
Once both sides are done I will start getting ready to make the gold domed nail studs.
In order to start I will use 1/8" brass rod. Cut 4 rods approximately 2". Flatten one end then I drill them out.
For the smaller 18 guage wire I use a 1/16" drill bit to drill the end of one brass rod. You only want to drill down far enough to hide the bevel of the point of the bit. Hopefully these next few pictures explain this.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives048.jpg
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives049.jpg
Hopefully you can see in this next picture what I was talking about by only drilling in far enough to cover the point bevel.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives050-1.jpg

Mine rods were done before this but you can tell I took them to the grinder and removed some excess on the ends.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l263/doublearrow/knives047.jpg

For the bigger 14 guage wire I used a 3/32" bit and repeated the process.

Tomorrow I'll go through actually making the domed pins.