Where to buy rise/fall indicator

B

Brian.Evans

Active Member
I would like to buy a rise fall indicator for my slipjoints. Riverside has some, but I don't like the original Ruple design as well as the newer designs where the knob to lock the slide is on the top. Tracy is out of stock, and I think they said they'd be out of stock for several weeks. I can't find anyone else that sells them. If I could find someone with machining experience and knowledge of how the RFIs work, I'd even do that. I don't want to go to a local shop because they don't work so well without actual dimensions and specs. I'd buy a used one if I could find one. I'm open to anything at this point. Any ideas?

I'd like to get going asap. All my other supplies are here and my shop retrofit will be done this week.


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Brian,
They are not hard to build. I would think anyone capable of building a slipjoint could build a zero jig.
I built mine before I even met Bill Ruple,I didn't know he was the inventor.
 
Brian, I think you won't have any problem building a RFI without a milling machine. Even with only a drill press shouldn't be a problem. Perhaps not exactly like the one on USAknifemakers.com but will do the job just fine. Dimensions are very general, and fit your use more than anything.

Take a look at the photo on your other thread - it doesn't take all the machining used on the manuf'd type. Just take a 3"X10"X1/2" chunk of aluminum (or steel). After making a pattern of one side liner, use it to drill a hole for the blade pivot, then another hole for the backspring pivot. Now with another chunk of aluminum, perhaps 1/2"X 1/2"X 1" to 2" long. Drill a hole in that to slide the dial indicator thru, with a setscrew to hold indicator in place. A couple other holes to fasten small block to larger plate. Volia - you have a RFI.

Ken H>
 
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KenH said:
Brian, I think you won't have any problem building a RFI without a milling machine. Even with only a drill press shouldn't be a problem. Perhaps not exactly like the one on USAknifemakers.com but will do the job just fine. Dimensions are very general, and fit your use more than anything.

Take a look at the photo on your other thread - it doesn't take all the machining used on the manuf'd type. Just take a 3"X10"X1/2" chunk of aluminum (or steel). After making a pattern of one side liner, use it to drill a hole for the blade pivot, then another hole for the backspring pivot. Now with another chunk of aluminum, perhaps 1/2"X 1/2"X 1" to 2" long. Drill a hole in that to slide the dial indicator thru, with a setscrew to hold indicator in place. A couple other holes to fasten small block to larger plate. Volia - you have a RFI.

Ken H>
Click to expand...

That is very true. I've done something similar with a piece of PG O1. It is a pain trying to do several knives in different patterns. I want an adjustable one.

Calvin, I still want to learn to do a liner lock from you. Life got kind of crazy, I'll get with you hopefully soon!


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Brian, what part of the world are you in? If anywhere close to South Alabama you're more than welcome to come over and we'll mill out something.

Ken H>
 
Brian, Calvin's jig is a mind opener!!
Why do we need a mill when we can use 2 layers? :) The outer layer should be thick enough to ensure pins stability, way to go!

Scribing a line on the tang with the caliper, using the dial's number, is a very nice way to cut time when zeroing the spring positions.
 
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