Swayback Wharncliffe How To

Follow-Up

One aspect of the Knife Dogs Forum I especially appreciate is the family-friendly atmosphere. I can show friends and family the artistry and skills on display here without worry about coming across something unsavory. In the same spirit, I wanted to find a scrimshander with the same sense of decency. It took some searching, but I found Kathy J. Bone in Wellsburg, West Virginia who did the artwork on Bruce's great little knife at a very reasonable price. She sent me a couple of sketches and we decided which to go with. The work was completed and returned within four weeks.
Overall a great experience! :biggrin: :biggrin: :biggrin:
Roger T
 
Great tutorial! Couple of questions -- how do you go about cleaning up the "square" of the blade where the tang hits? I find that to be the toughest part of hand-rubbing. Also; where did you get that carbide file guard? Thanks!
 
Hello Michael,
Thanks for chipping in here.
The squared tang is hand rubbed on the sides but around the edges I just use a strip sander with the table and platen set at 90 degrees. The spring needs to also be done on the strip sander to match.
The file guide is one of Brent Finnigans custom made file guides. It came hardened but I epoxied (JB Weld) carbides from MSC or ENCO, cant remember which on the face. Check out Als Riverside Machine. He sells one very similar. If you glue yours on be sure to resurface them they are slightly differant thicknesses, at least mine were. I didnt resurface mine but instead clamped them as an assembly and the JB Weld took up the extra thickness under the thin one. Make any sense? If I had a diamond wheel for my surface grinder I would still touch it up.
 
I try doing mine on the 90-degree platen, but I still like getting them to have a hand-rub that follows the spine. Did you do that, or is it common to leave that with a light belt? I probably just need more practice. :D I added an arrow to make sure we're on the same page -- thanks again for the great tutorial.

bumpblade.jpg
 
Hi Michael,
According to Harvey Dean and Tony Bose the belt finish is acceptable around the tang. I leave it untouched generally but use a worn out 400 grit on the strip sander. There is debate whether a 220 grit fininsh will trap more lubricant and have less contact area thus less drag or if a polished smoother finished for smoother operation but possible gaulding. In either case you decide but dont open or close it dry, a drop of oil while adjusting for "O" is important. I've gaulded a few springs dry, remember they are softer than the blade tang. Thanks for the questions.
 
Would you mind if I made a slipjoint indicator-holder-thingy like you? I have to make a few slippies and I think it would be worth my time to make one!
 
Hey Michael,

It is certainly a great tool to have. In hindsight, my time would have been better spent buying one than making one. Do a search in the folding knives forum. Don Robinson was selling some a while back for a very reasonable price.

Regards,
Josh
 
This one I made is a copy of one I saw once. Tracy sells one now I think if you dont want to make one.
as a side note: this thing is very nice to have when designing a folder tang however final tuning is done by without it because its very difficult to get the knife clamped solid and 0 will vary. You'll see what I mean soon enough.
 
Thanks -- I'll be watching for that to come around. I peened my first today, but I think I peened too hard because now it doesn't want to open or close worth a damn! :sad:
 
burchtree said:
Thanks -- I'll be watching for that to come around. I peened my first today, but I think I peened too hard because now it doesn't want to open or close worth a damn! :sad:
Click to expand...

Boss Dog should have rise and fall meters for sale any day now if you havent already made one.

Peening too hard and be remedied by reaching in and prying the liners open a little. Be sure to protect the soft liners from getting dented with a pair of feeler guages. Harvey uses heat treat foil as shims but they are hard to get out. Ken Coats actually made a fine threaded screw type prying device that is precise. Harvey Dean spends an evening in front of the tv just opening and closing for "break in" I did that a couple times and almost gave myself another case of tendonitis. One time I tossed some diamond polishing compound in the joint and it didnt seem to help much and was super hard to clean back out again.
Peening takes some practice. I generally have more trouble overpeening a cracking handle scales than overtightening the pivot.
 
Maybe this will help..I recently had a slippy that I kind overpeened the pivot on. I stuck pennies down into the liners and drove them in in several places gently to spraed the liners. They are soft enough to where they won't mar most liner materials. They also vary in thickness, so if you have a jar of them you are good to go. If two pennies isn't enough, put a feeler guage or shim material in between the two pennies and let the pennies rest against each liner.
 
J S Machine said:
Maybe this will help..I recently had a slippy that I kind overpeened the pivot on. I stuck pennies down into the liners and drove them in in several places gently to spraed the liners. They are soft enough to where they won't mar most liner materials. They also vary in thickness, so if you have a jar of them you are good to go. If two pennies isn't enough, put a feeler guage or shim material in between the two pennies and let the pennies rest against each liner.
Click to expand...

Ahh yes, an old machinist trick....hammering pennies in the slot. I'll try that next time.
 
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