Non matched book end scales

A

AJH_Knives

Well-Known Member
is it okay to use non matched scales? to clarify they are matched but not bookend matched. how much does that matter? just curious
 
hi,
we have an english problem to start. what do you mean by matched? from the same piece of wood or same type of wood?
I make scales that are book matched. I take a 4"x1"x1"thick piece of wood and slice it down the middle so I now have 2 pieces 4"x1"x1/2"thick. the inside pieces become the outside of the scales.
I would think if the pieces are close in color and grain they would be ok. here is an example of what I call "book matched"
View attachment 41925
scott
 
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Scott, i think we are on the same page. they are the same color and the grain structure are almost identical.. i guess it is hard to describe without a picture. i am going to go with it.. i'll try to post a pic of the wood lateer
 
Even bookmatched isn't "bookmatched." Initially when you cut a block into bookmatched scales, they match but as you shape and grind away the surface you end up with inconsistencies. This is more noticeable with higher figured woods and certain species. I'll post some examples later on... but in short, as long as the figure and color are compatible, I don't think it matters much, if at all.
 
One thing I'll throw in is some woods, like snakeskin sycamore, have got a hook to the grain. You'd want to make sure the flow is going the same direction side to side. Aside from that, in my case a lot of my knives are double bolstered, so you can't see the end grain anyhow, which is where matching the grain flow, or intentionally going against it, can be additionally attractive depending on what you're trying to achieve.
 
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