From Round Stock to Knife

S

scjohnson243

Member
I managed to get a *LOT* of 1/2" Round stock from someone getting rid of it - I have probably 200' of it... If I wanted to make a knife blank out of it, does anyone have any tips about getting an even "extrude" on the steel?

I am fairly new, so I am probably not describing what I am trying to do.

Take a piece of the 1/2" round stock, and with the peen of my hammer work it "Long ways" to make it more flat (not round). My question is does anyone have any tips on making it a uniform thickness after I work it flat?

Sorry I'm not sure I'm describing it as well as I should - I'll try to take some WIP pictures next time I'm at the forge....
 
I need to ask what alloy we are talking about. This is important. Not all alloys can make knives. If it's structural steel then it doesn't have enough carbon in it to harden into a strong edge. If it's a tool steel we may be talking business here but it would be nice to know which alloy it is. If you have a lab near you you could take a piece in for an assay or maybe the person you're getting it from might know. For about 200 ft of steel it might be worth finding out but only if you find out that it's usable for blades.

You can hot forge a round, and actually I would rather start with a 3/4" than 1/2" round, to a consistent thickness with a hammer but it would be easier with a press or rolling mill. If you don't have any other option than hammer work you might also want to consider getting a flatter to even things out. Also remember that knifesmiths rough forge in the distal and edge bevels even when we start out with a flat bar so you don't have to go from round bar, to a uniform flat bar, to a knife blade.

By the way extrude is something you do by forcing hot steel through dies. Drawing out is what you do with a hammer, press, or rolling mill. Don't worry you will pick up the lingo as you go along.

Doug
 
Doug, Thank you - Its 1084 hot roll, it probably will not be great for making and holding an edge, but I figured it would be great to practice the forging/grinding portion of the process - without wasting any good quality knifemaking steel...

Drawing out with a hammer is what I was talking about. I usually have been stock removal, but since I had the metal I figured it would be a good time to start learning how to forge for later down the road - and worse case I can make a bunch of "blanks" to practice by grinding/bevel making, etc, etc...

Thank you again.
 
If it's 1084 it WILL be great for taking and holding an edge. I have the ability to heat treat almost anything with my equipment, but I still use 1080 or 1084 for most of my knives. I'd actually love to have some 1084 round for making integrals. That was a GREAT find!
 
I'm new also, but I started out smithing and then began my interest in knifes. 1/2" round mild stock was some of the first I toyed around with. You can make a decent sized blade with it. As far as keeping it uniform, for me its hammer control, and thats part of the fun for me. You mentioned peening it, I would suggest using the face of the hammer. I don't know what your forging skill set is, but mild steels and high carbon do not behave the same.
 
1084 is great forging knife steel. if you need to unload some of that, send me a PM..
 
Make friends with someone who has a powerhammer....:biggrin:

But seriously, you can get a 1"+ wide blade out of 1/2" round bar, depending of course on final thickness and hammering technique. It sounds like you have enough to experiment with...
 
Does your friend remember where he got the 1084 round stock? As far as edge holding goes, I made a test blade that I drove through a piece of bailing wire with a mallet and didn't even have the slightest nick in the edge. You have access to 200 feet of fantastic knife steel that is very forgiving when it comes to heat treating. You have a lot of people drooling over the possibility of getting some.

Doug
 
A real good find! 1/2" stock is not going to take much to draw down to a workable size. A few heats and a drawing hammer will make short work of that
 
Well, I was a bit wrong yesterday, after pulling a portion of it out and looking its 3/8th inch... I'll have to verify its 1084 thats just what I was told - I'll get it checked out somewhere around here and I would be happy to spread some around, honestly its more than I would ever use... (if 3/8th is as desirable)

I was mostly planning on making a bunch of blanks and working on forging techniques... I beat some molding clay to death last night and seemed when I used the flat of the hammer I had better luck getting it all a uniform shape, using the "Peen" I had a bunch of divots that I had to go back and get rid of with the flat of the hammer, but then my material was getting much less thick in some spots.. ;)

I belong to a blacksmith group down here, but for some reason if you tell them you want to make knives they all give you a terrible look and start mumbling everyone wanting to make knives, etc, etc.

ANyway, when I get it checked out, I'll post the results, and if its the "good stuff" I'll be happy to spread it out to whoever needs some. :)
 
scjohnson243 said:
Well, I was a bit wrong yesterday, after pulling a portion of it out and looking its 3/8th inch... I'll have to verify its 1084 thats just what I was told - I'll get it checked out somewhere around here and I would be happy to spread some around, honestly its more than I would ever use... (if 3/8th is as desirable)

I was mostly planning on making a bunch of blanks and working on forging techniques... I beat some molding clay to death last night and seemed when I used the flat of the hammer I had better luck getting it all a uniform shape, using the "Peen" I had a bunch of divots that I had to go back and get rid of with the flat of the hammer, but then my material was getting much less thick in some spots.. ;)

I belong to a blacksmith group down here, but for some reason if you tell them you want to make knives they all give you a terrible look and start mumbling everyone wanting to make knives, etc, etc.

ANyway, when I get it checked out, I'll post the results, and if its the "good stuff" I'll be happy to spread it out to whoever needs some. :)
Click to expand...

I thought the flat (face) of the hammer would work better for you.

I bet you could make use of this for some of your other smithing projects also. Don't limit it to just blades. I'm thinking punches, etc.
 
So -- Anyone happen to come across a youtube of someone doing a blade from round stock? Not sure if its "better" to start tip first, or "hilt"...

Just would be nice to see someone else how they do it...

Thanks
 
I guess it would depend on rather or not you are forging it to flat bar and then forging a knife or if you are forging an integral bolstered blade. If you are just wanting it to flat stock, it really doesn't matter which you forge first though I would personally always choose blade first. If you are forging an integral bolstered blade, I would forge blade first.

Regardless, as you forge down the round stock, make note of how much length you are having to forge to get your desired yield of flat stock in order to determine your need for overall yield. For example, if 1" of 3/8" round = 2" length x 1" width x 3/16" thickness, you'll need to forge 3" of round stock to yield 6" of flat stock. I know there is an equation to calculate this but I'm too tired right now to remember or research it.
 
Ray's jigs work very well. Makes the process really simple. They are reasonably priced. One of my maker friends who I work with from time to time has one of the jigs. Cuts the time in half and makes the transitions on the mark every time.

Edit:

Check out the ABS YouTube Channel for more knifemaking info.
 
scjohnson243 said:
So -- Anyone happen to come across a youtube of someone doing a blade from round stock? Not sure if its "better" to start tip first, or "hilt"...

Just would be nice to see someone else how they do it...

Thanks
Click to expand...
Doesn't really matter, but if I forge the point while it is still round stock things seem to go easier than doing it after flattening.
 
Thanks again everyone! never heard of the jigs before but I'm going to get one to help at least in the first knives... Cant believe I never came across the ABS youtube channel before, Been watching it now for the last few hours. :)
 
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