Frank Niro knife grinding jig: request for photos if you made one.

S

SharpEye

Member
Would someone who made one of Frank's jigs described in this post:
http://knifedogs.com/showthread.php...g-all-jig-pics!/page6&highlight=jigs+fixtures
please take pictures and post them on this thread. I want to make one but can't totally figure it out.
Frank describes the rods as being used in the basic alinement to the blade, and for stop and go placement. He mentions two slots for rods. The drawing shows one straight rod, and elsewhere there is a bent end to the rod. Do they basicly just work as start and stop points that could be magic markered on to the table? He also says keep the gig flat, but move it in an arc: (verticle or horizontal?)
thanks. Frank if you read this, I'm asking for photos because I'm hopeing more photos will help me picture it better.
 
I have looked at the pics, that you mention, and don't quite get it either. Here is a link to a tutorial that I posted on a flat grinding jig that I use.
http://knifedogs.com/showthread.php?5457-Flat-grinding-jig-that-works
This setup works real well, it does take some practice to get good results, and the blade clamp must hold the blade at exactly 90 degrees, if not your grind will be different on each side and not centered. So when making the clamp it is important to get it right.
If you have any questions, I will be glad to answer them if I can.
Hope this helps
Dale
 
Last edited:
[video=youtube;iNVFZC3FOkI]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iNVFZC3FOkI[/video]

Here's a vid giving an overview of a jig I made as well, though to be honest, I almost never use it, in favor of free-handing my grinds. It is sometimes handy to have for smaller blades though.
 
Hello People.
Gee I sure want to help but I have to learn how to post pictures to our forum. I'm hoping that will soon happen. I did get a camera and it it works pretty well on close ups of my folders, but now every thing, camera and grinders are all boxed up. I've just gone to a new home where I may not have a shop for several months. It will happen though. Let me see if I can help without more pictures which were very few to begin with.
This jig or blade holder is simplicity plus and works so very well without a lot of fooling around. It works as well for flat grinding as it does for hollow grinding. I have to similar machines and I can change the table from the wheeled machine to the one with the flat platten.Don't make it complicated. It is just simple, simple, simple to use and get good results with.
Wooden blocks to hold the blade are not great. They will get sticky to use when they get wet. It will be necessary to wipe off the bottom regularly. Place the blade between the two block holders of say 5/8" micarta that were cut with 90 degree angles and have been drilled so that the blocks are both level and the same size. Use a spacer in the opposite end the same thickness as the blade. The blade must have blade sides parallel to each other. Forget about the bend on the end of the wire. Place the wire in the slot to "roughly" establish the position or angle of where the spine by moving the blade up or down, front or back. Tighten the four screws holding the blade in this fixture. Go to your grinder. You must have a table that is ajustable up and down and some in or more likely out. I like to put a finer type belt on say 120 or finer and place the blade holding fixture on the table and bring it up against the belt. No the belt is not moving.The blade edge will not yet be making contact with the belt. Now tilt the table so it seems it will take off the amount you want, but adjust it down a bit so you won't grind so high through the spine of the blade on your first passes.
I'm figuring you have your blade marked with two scribed lines to show the thickness the blade will be. I now start my machie and draw the fixture so that the gringing starts at the ricasso and moves to the tip end. The fixture is kept flat on the adjustable table and is drawn along in a smooth motion. I go with good belts , do not push hard, and run my grinder on the slow side. That's just my way of doing it. If while you are grinding you look down on your scribed line it will tell you how you are making out. Now is the blade grind, don't get concerned with the pointed end yet,running along the blade parrallel to the top as you want it, or is it too low or too high? Do not loosen off your fixture but give the pointed end a tap up or down on a wooden bench edge. Do this as necessary until you see you are going to get what you want. Well we must check to see if we are grinding to much off the top or off the bottom. This will now require a slight table adjustment up or down. Does more have to come off the tip end? Simply pull the fixture keeping it flat towards you a bit. If you were follwing your scribed line you would have had to do this. I grind the one side with the first belt I use and now go to the other side by just turning the fixture around. No adjustments will be needed now since you set it all up on the first side. You can now go to the next belt size and the next until you are finished. I only make liner locks and do all my blades in this manner. Others have told me I should learn to grind free hand. Well of course I can but since this gives me better results why not use it? They are using milling mchines and surface grinders that I don't have and say that's okay. There are many makers who are far into technical mechanical ways to do the work. The truth is, it's not how you do it, but how well. To see some of my work go to customknifegallery.com and scroll down on the left hand side to find me.
You can ask more here or write niro@telus.net I will support you with phone calls if they will help. I can call anywhere in North America with no increase on my phone bill. Hey I just got my computer up last night. Regards. Frank
 
Another couple of notes to add are that the grinding table should be 90 degress to your platen or grinding wheel both uon it's length and horizontally as well. Frank
 
Thanks for answering Frank. I think I can picture how the jig is working when grinding, but I'm still lost as to how the guide rod helps establish a proper starting "rough" angle, and what its purpose is durring grinding. Thanks.
 
Okay.
Here is another way to start. The wire was only used to help line up the blade and removed before you started any grinding. Don't even go there to try to use it. Just place the blade - say a drop point shaped piece of mild steel -, in your blade holder, give the table a bit of angle, start your motor, and draw the blade across the belt from the handle end to the tip,with the fixture sitting flat on the table. Now you can see if the table should go up or down and the the point up or down because the grinding isn't going where you want. I said I do all my blades in this manner without making any changes except for these adjustments. I do the Persian shaped blades this way too. Frank
 
I'll be checking in case you post another question or two. The big problem here is the simplicity of use. It's just too simple but works so well. Frank
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top