What type of Brass and Stainless Steel to use for guards and pommels

Grizzly Bear

Well-Known Member
Hey knife dogs,

While looking through a metal vendor's web page I noticed that he offered several types of Brass that he sells. Can you guys tell me which type of Brass is the best to use for guards and pommels? One of the Brass types that I used for a couple of knifes I made got orange peel (darkish orange color that would not take a brilliant polish) because I over buffed it, that is what I was told at a knife making class that I attended. I didn't think to ask what type of Brass I was given to use in the class. Are certain brasses more prone to orange peeling and scratching than others?

Also, which type of stainless steel do you think makes the best guard and pommels, brightness and strength? I use 440C for my blades.

Thanks a lot for your input. The brass really puzzles me, I thought brass was brass period.

Grizzly Bear
 
got orange peel (darkish orange color that would not take a brilliant polish) because I over buffed it,
Does that not sound like "over heated" while buffing? Changing color like that? I'll wait for the real experts to chime in on that one, but from what I've found brass normally takes a nice shine.

Calvin is right - for SS, 416 is the way to go! Easy machined, and takes a nice polish.

Ken H>
 
I agree with the above...... 416 Stainless. I've not used brass in a long time, but when I did, I preferred 360 brass.

Reading your post about "over buffing", I think it's prudent to say the following: A buffer isn't a tool used to "cut down" on work. You still need to finish to a fine grit..... at least 600 grit for brass, and 1200 or more for stainless guard materials. Trying to make a buffer do more then it's intended to just creates problems.
 
Guys thanks for your help. I realize now after reading your answers that I did indeed burn the bronze by trying to take out a deep scratch with the buffer instead of going back to the sandpaper first. It was just one scratch while the rest of the guard looked beautiful; I was too lazy and pressed for time to start all over again. I knew better, but I was trying to make two knives in class instead of putting all of my time, energy and concentration into making one very good knife.


Ed, as always you were spot on and knew exactly what I did. I do have one more question for you. I have tried to re-polish the brass with green compound which usually gives me a mirror finish, however the brass still doesn't shine like virgin brass does. Is the brass on my knives (a bowie and an original dagger design) ruined or can I ever get it to looking bright again?

Looking forward to hearing from you.

Thanks a lot for your help.

Grizzly Bear
 
You want to match the pin stock to the base metal or else the pins will show.

a360 is probably the most common brass used as fixtures as it's the most common brass out there in the sizes we use in bar and pin stock.

Stainless is a bit different. There is 300 and 400 series with several variations of each.

Again, you need to match the pin stock to the base metal or it will show. 310SS base metal and 303ss pin stock won't match, even if they are both 300 series.

The knife guys have preferred 416ss. It machines and finishes beautifully.
 
To get the brass back to a state where it will polish..... either hand finish it back to a 600 grit finish, or LIGHTLY take it to a 600 grit belt on the grinder....THEN do a light hand sanding with 600 or 800, THEN buff it ONLY ENOUGH to get the sheen you want. You'll have to get rid of any discoloration caused by the previous buffing, and/or any "orange peel" before it will "shine".
 
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