Black Lip Pearl

KenH

Well-Known Member
Hello all - I've never worked with any of the pearl scales, like the plain white pearl, nor the Black Lip Pearl.... that Black Lip Pearl is pretty!!! I have a couple questions when using the scales. Is the finish just a thin layer laying on top? Do you grind and shape pearl scales on top? OR - just scribe around the outline and carefully cut and grind to shape without ever touching the top?

I wish to use the scales for a folder - my idea is to scribe around the handle profile, the with a fine tooth saw cut somewhat close to scribe lines leaving plenty to sand off to flush with knife liner. Am I on track? OR - is there better way?

Any suggestions and guidance on working with pearl would be greatly appreciated.

Ken H>
 
Ken, won't pretend to know anything here but a goggle search turned this info up!

https://www.google.com/search?q=Bla...=chrome&ie=UTF-8#q=how+to+cut+mother+of+pearl

I am going to guess it is a lot like bone. If so it does not like heat! Do as much of your sanding as you do in slow bursts when sanding it too shape. Let your hands tell you, if it feels hot quit and/or cool the material! A quick dunk may not be enough when you are getting to final shape!

I am thinking a jewlers saw would work for cutting but, the thickness of the materail will make it suseptable to, "Oh shoots", I would think!!

I do know you need to wear a resperiator when sanding as if I remember correctly the dust can be toxic! :what!:

Sorry I can't be more help but I have never tried mother of pearl or black lip pearl.
 
Hello all - I've never worked with any of the pearl scales, like the plain white pearl, nor the Black Lip Pearl.... that Black Lip Pearl is pretty!!! I have a couple questions when using the scales. Is the finish just a thin layer laying on top? Do you grind and shape pearl scales on top? OR - just scribe around the outline and carefully cut and grind to shape without ever touching the top?

I wish to use the scales for a folder - my idea is to scribe around the handle profile, the with a fine tooth saw cut somewhat close to scribe lines leaving plenty to sand off to flush with knife liner. Am I on track? OR - is there better way?

Any suggestions and guidance on working with pearl would be greatly appreciated.

Ken H>

If you haven't worked it before, buy a cheap set or piece of MOP and practice on that first.
Here's a couple random points on it.
cut with a jewelers saw or you can edge grind it with a 120 belt. It grinds away very fast. Don't let the belt joint hit it too hard when edge grinding. A contact wheel works better. MOP hates sharp impacts.

The shiny iridescent layers go 1/3 to 1/2 deep. Typical use is to leave as much surface flat as possible and round over the edges as needed. you can sculpt it a bit and will end up with a white layer exposed that isn't necessarily unpleasant as an accent line.

Drill with brand new sharp bits through the back onto a flat surface until the tip of the bit just starts to break through. Flip it over and drill the dimple to reduce chip out.
Use faster than typical speed with lighter than normal pressure. You grinding should produce dust, not chips.

if it is scratched you can sand out the scratch pretty much the same way you would on steel.

When mounting it to knife, it HATES any side pressure in screw holes. If you pein a pin into MOP, leave room and don't squeeze it.

Expect some natural flaws to work around.

You may may need to sand the back side flat. Hand sand with light palm pressure and fine grit abrasive using water on a flat surface trues it up. Use power at your own peril. I know for a fact how easy it is to drop a scale while disk grinding and ending up with a big chip out of it from the drop.

It kinda stinks when you work it. Don't breath the dust. It is sharp little shards of ceramic.

The upside is, when you get a knife done with it, you will think it's worth it.
 
Darn Mr Craft, your google search turned up so much better than my search did. Thanks for the link.

Boss: "cheap set or piece of MOP" - that's what I got. Last trip to Blade show I picked up a couple sets of cheap pearl scales, one white and one Black Lip. So, not a lot to lose if I do screw up, but sure hope not. Taking it slow 'n easy.

" shiny iridescent layers go 1/3 to 1/2 deep" that is the info I was really looking for. I looked at my scales and it sure looked like the iridescent layer was so shallow.

" can sand out the scratch" I was wondering about that - and that depends the scratch is less than the depth of iridescent layer, then it could be sanded out.

Thanks for the info and help,

Ken H>
 
Weren't nothing Ken, I have figured out a search is all in how you word it and, even a blind hog finds an acorn now and then!!

I noticed Boss agreed with the jewelers saw but I sure would be careful. I know this goes without saying but when sawing the material needs to be lightly clamped with support! Or I got a bad feeling the push pulll of the saw will bind and break the material!!

Check out this link as far as being cautious with the dust. I guess it is not toxic but having my lungs hurt for a few days don't sound to good either! http://www.acousticguitarforum.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-173342.html

http://www.banjohangout.org/archive/215343

http://www.mylespaul.com/forums/showthread.php?t=163234

Hey I want to see some pics on this project!! :s12108:
 
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