want to start folders

secor c1

Member
Hey guys so I have been making fixed blades for a while now and want to start learning how to do folders problem is looking at supply sites there are so many parts pieces and screws its a lil over whelming. I was wondering if some one can help me out with what to order, I have plenty of handle materials and steel for the blade, I don't know what thickness of titanium for the liners (some one told me .050 is that ok? also I don't know what size stop pins pivot barrels or heads do I need bearings along with the pivot barrel or head? and scews there are soooooo many. ANY help at all with what I will need to order would really be appreciated! oh ideally I would like to create a assisted opening liner lock but the assisted opening can wait if its better to try a regular liner lock first but if its not that much harder that's what I would like to do OH and do I need shims?
 
First decide if you are going to make liner locks, slip joints or lock backs and tell us if you have a surface grinder and or milling machine.
Frank
 
Thank you frank, ideally I would like to do a assisted opening liner lock, some one told me that it might be a better idea to do it without the assisted opening for the first one. Is that true on one hand yeh I get it keep it as simple as possible on the first one, but I don't know how much more is involved to create the assisted opening and if its not that much more why not just try that since that is what I will eventually want to do anyway. what do you think. I don't have either a mill or surface grinder. some one had told me a while back that a mill is nessicary so I put the idea on hold however I went to a knife show and talked to some people and they said a mill makes it quicker and easier but isn't necessary. also from what I understand without the surface grinder I would have to use shims correct? I have a 2x72 KMG grinder I don't know maybe I could make some sort of attach ment that it could serve as almost a surface grinder. again any help would be apreciated
 
You don't necessarily NEED a mill or a surface grinder, but they do reduce a lot of potential headaches. A piece of sandpaper on a surface plate or a flat piece of glass can work as a "poor man's surface grinder" when it come to getting pieces flat. Keeping them parallel may be another issue, but if you start with some precision ground stock, that shouldn't be a big obstacle. Just keep the pressure even when doing any sanding.

You do want to make sure any and all holes are round, and that your drill press is as perfectly square to the table as you can get it. Use reamers for final hole diameters, and always de-burr before drilling. Using sharp, quality bits will help in the long run too.

I wouldn't worry about bearings on my first. Start with a dead simple design, or maybe better yet, get some plans:
http://usaknifemaker.com/liner-lock-plans-by-dan-vandergon-11-pages-k2-design-new.html

If you call or email Boss Dog or USAKnifeMaker customer service, I have no doubt they'll email you a parts list so that you can order exactly what you need to complete a knife per the plans.

You may also look into Bob Terzuola's Tactical Folder book. It viewed by most to be the best place to start on design and construction theory for liner locks.

Also take a look at this tutorial:

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1028982-Build-a-linerlock

by Gareth Bull. I haven't looked through it recently, but IIRC, he doesn't really use a mill or a surface grinder, or really any other super fancy tools, but still makes a pretty fine knife. It might give you some ideas or direction.
 
AR custom knives, THANKS! yeh I have a flat glass plate that I used for some hand sanding stuff. I also have reamers and understand the precision needed in folders so I will drill small and then ream to size. I am going to take a look at those links right now and send a messge to usaknifemaker I am sure bothe will be help full.. again thnk you for the help!
 
Buy precision ground or flat ground stock. I don't have a surface grinder and haven't needed one as long as I've used stock that is pre-ground. I won't use anything else. A2 is fairly inexpensive and makes a decent knife and spring should you choose to make a slip-joint.
 
You can grind your blade to exact thickness with a flat platen and a half decent set of dial or digital calipers.
Just keep the thickness to within a couple thousandths (.002) or so.
With a bit of practice you can easily do this by hand on your belt grinder, no surface grinder necessary! Maybe clean it up with your glass plate.
Keep your pivots and stops as simple as you can at first, bronze bearings and a hardened pivot pin, along with clean, square, and straight lines will make for a smooth Knife!

Good luck, looking forward to seeing your first!
 
If this helps, Travis Wuertz makes an attachment for the KMG, that is the very next
best thing to having a Surface Grinder, while it isn't cheap, it's built as robust as the
KMG is. Plus, it allows for some other abilities, such as tapering the tang on a full tang
blade. If you look on youtube, you'll find several videos of his, everything he makes is
top quality!
Rex
 
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