Working on 2nd kitchen knife, looking for advice...

billyO

Well-Known Member
Working on 2nd kitchen knife, looking for advice...(Final Pics)

Hello all.
Spent the day at the forge today and forged out another kitchen knife. Seeing as my anvil doesn't have a flat face, I'm planning on having my friend flatten it under his 250lb Chambersburg or 50 ton press. Billet started at ~1 3/8" x 1/2 " and was 240 layers of 1084/15N20 that I ground random waves in before forging.
The blades forged dimensions are: 9 3/4" long; Spine is 0.240" at the heel, 0.145" at the tip; edge is ~0.100 from heel to tip. Height at heel is ~2.095"

zgI32iV.jpg


Any suggestions on shape changes?
What dimensions should I be shooting for when forging?
What thickness should I tell him to shoot for?
Anyone ever do a random curves pattern?
and lastly: What's a good size for starting billet size when grinding a ladder pattern or drilling shallow holes? To be honest, I'm beat after forging this into a blade and another piece into a ladder pattern blank today...
yawn.gif


Thanks in advance.
 
Last edited:
Here it is after rough grinding. Spine thickness at the heel now is 0.160", 0.100 at the tip. Wondering if I should go thinner?

2mkktnz.jpg


Looks like I ended up with a Bocho style, so I may just add a little more belly. A link I found mentions that the Bunka Fuayuki Bocho has a single bevel. Any specific reasons for single versus double bevel? Any other suggestions?
Thanks again.
~billyO​
 
Last edited:
Go thinner, in my opinion. .110-ish at the heel works very well on a 6in or 8in chef knife. The tip can be .070 if you want a strong tip or as thin as .040 if you do a lot of tip work for slicing. Of course all things are subjective. If a person likes German style knives then they will like the weight and thickness. A thinner knife performs better in my experience, but you can't go beating on it.
 
Thanks for the reply, John. Here's a pic after I ground a little more belly towards the tip.
F9wIz9z.jpg
 
that's a great shape. nearly flat from the heel for 3/4 of the edge and then a nice gradual swoop to the tip for rocking. i think you've nailed it.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Thanks, John. I'll be sure to post pics when I'm finished (if not right after the final etch....:3:).
 
Here are pics of the final result, the etching on the tang didn't show up well in the pics. I ended up trying to finish sand the scales off the tang because I had already etched the blade, and then epoxy/pin followed by a quick buff/polish using my dremel polishing wheel and compound. Worked OK.
Damascus pattern was made by grinding random grooves through the original billet. Handle is stabilized maple and ebony with stainless inside brass pins.
Spine thickness is .090 at the heel down to .020 at the tip.

CYsTupU.jpg

VmH35M8.jpg

BsLkIKL.jpg
 
Last edited:
gorgeous! and most important of all- it looks like it is a joy to use.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Thanks John, I think I'm going to have to do more random grinds.
I'm not actually sure about how it is to use, as my final sharpening stones are at the apartment I rent during the week. I'll let you know when I get back there (but it may be a week or so...)
 
Back
Top