natenaaron
Member
For you folks who make kitchen cutlery where and how do you plan for the balance point for each knife style in a knife set.
Kitchen knife Balance points
- Thread starter natenaaron
- Start date
John Wilson
Well-Known Member
On a chef knife or long slicer: A blade-heavy knife tires the hand and wrist faster. A handle heavy knife reduces fatigue and makes the blade feel quicker and more nimble.
On a petty/ utility (4 - 6 inch blade) : a center-balanced knife handles better for various grips on a board or in the hand for paring. Being center balanced keeps the knife from falling out of your hand on delicate cuts where you are probably using two or three fingers to work the knife, pinching at the center.
Small knives (paring, peeling) : handle heavy gives a more secure feel in the hand.
There are few knives that benefit from being blade heavy. Choppers and heavy fish knives (Japanese Deba) come to mind.
I always err towards handle-heavy. My blades are very thin and I don't use bolsters. To get the weight balanced toward the handle I don't drill any extra holes in the tang.
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On a petty/ utility (4 - 6 inch blade) : a center-balanced knife handles better for various grips on a board or in the hand for paring. Being center balanced keeps the knife from falling out of your hand on delicate cuts where you are probably using two or three fingers to work the knife, pinching at the center.
Small knives (paring, peeling) : handle heavy gives a more secure feel in the hand.
There are few knives that benefit from being blade heavy. Choppers and heavy fish knives (Japanese Deba) come to mind.
I always err towards handle-heavy. My blades are very thin and I don't use bolsters. To get the weight balanced toward the handle I don't drill any extra holes in the tang.
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scott.livesey
Dealer - Purveyor
personal preference is where handle ends and blade starts, about the middle. like John, I usually work with thin blades. I use wood type and handle shape to get the balance. untreated maple and walnut are light. oak, hickory, orange/purple heart in the middle. dogwood, locust, canarywood, and stabilized woods are heavy.
natenaaron
Member
Being new I'm not sure what "thin blades" mean
John Wilson
Well-Known Member
on kitchen knives, thin blades are in the 2mm - 3mm range at the heel of the blade. (.070 - .110 inch) give or take. On an 8 or 10 inch blade with a full height flat grind and distal taper, this is very thin.
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scott.livesey
Dealer - Purveyor
I make kitchen knives using O1 ground flat stock that is 2.5mm (3/32") or less. Thin blades for small knives are 1/16"(1.5mm or 0.06") or 3/64"(1mm or 0.04), so you can end up with blades that weigh about an ounce before you add a handle.
samuraistuart
Well-Known Member
I also aim for balance point to fall right at the handle/blade junction, right at the pinch grip, regardless of kitchen or hunting knife. Thin, light, and balanced.
natenaaron
Member
Thanks folks. I appreciate the answers.
Guindesigns
Well-Known Member
This is good information to have as I am in the middle of making a slicer, a chef and a petty.
Thank you
Thank you