Home Built HT Oven Questions

Hi Folks,
i just finished my HT oven build and have a couple of questions regarding the initial start up. I seem to recall reading something about gradually working up to max temp by setting the SV at a temp of 500(?)F, allowing the oven to go back to ambient temp, and increasing the temp to maybe 750f, allowing to return to ambient, and so on. As I recall, this was to accomplish 2 things.

1) This process is supposed to make the heating element last longer (I have no idea how, maybe an oxide layer??)

2) helps the PID with its "learning curve".
Does anyone have any input on any of this?

The second part of my problem has to do with programming the Auber Instruments Ramp / Soak PID. I've spent several evenings pouring thru the online manual for it, and can't seem to make any sense of it. It made my daughters electrical engineer boyfriend leave scratching his head after 2 1/2 hrs. He did get it to fire the element, but I'm no closer to using it at anything near its potential. Anyone have any suggestions on this PID you'd be willing to share?
Thanks in advance for any advice on either of these 2 issues!

The heating of the element(s) is akin to "curing" an iron skillet before using it full time....makes it last longer and basically "shocks" the material less when used.

On the second part about the PID, I don't know what model the one you have is, but in general, most PID type controllers don't have the capacity for segmented ramping/holding. (unless the one you have specifically has that feature built into it). I know way back when I first started using PIDs on salt tanks, etc. it took me a lot of time, and a lot of trial and error to finally figure out how to input all the parameters and get everything set up correctly....and that for for a single segment heating scenario.

Thanks Ed. I had never thought of the cast iron skillet thing. That's kinda funny.i turned the oven on last nite and it hit 600F in under 5 minutes, but the SV kept climbing along with the PV. I thought I had the SV set at 500F,so I guess I'm even less proficient than even I thought (and this thing has made me feel dumber than a box of rocks!).

i appreciate the input sir.

The part of programming the PIDs that I had to learn...again and again, was that once I got a given parameter input, I would always forget to hit the "enter" key....before going to the next parameter.....by not hitting the "enter", it would reset whatever parameter to it's previous setting/temp. It drove me nuts until I realized what I was doing wrong.

Another thing that I get a lot of phone calls/emails about is that many don't realize/understand that you have to set the type of thermocouple..... now a days when I get a call or email asking for help, the first question I ask is if the individual has the thermocouple type set correctly. Most of the times the reply I get is "What?" For whatever reason if that parameter is set first, everything else seems to go more smoothly. Something that is very frustrating is that many times folks will try to use the wrong manual for the PID they have....if the numbers on the front of the PID do not match the number on the manual EXACTLY, then there are just enough differences to drive a guy to drink.

And people wonder why I gravitate towards products labeled "MADE IN U.S.A."! We have 6 grandkids in the house (3 of which are full time) for the day, so I'll probably have little if any time to try to work with it today.
This particular PID was, according to the literature, factory set for a K type thermocouple, but I checked it the other day, just to be sure. I really appreciate your continued help with these problems Ed. I must get it figured out soon. I have knives to finish making!

ax what kind of pid ?
my good friend Rudy help me with my recent conversion from dial to digital....

It is an Auber Instruments PID with Ramp and Soak. As far as a model number, it is SYL-2352P. I have it controlling 2 -40 amp SSRs, which sends power to 53' of 15 ga Kanthal A-1 wire. I had a hard time believing I'd ever be able to get that much wire into such a small area (the interior of my oven). Sorry for rambling on, I get lost in the moment occasionally! Thanks for the help.

Ed hit the two high points already.
On my particular PID, if something is still flashing rapidly, I know I didn't hit "enter". Even though I know better, after a few years I still do it some times. I also found that isolating one function and completing it several times helped to move on to the next. You have to train your brain and it's frustrating when your instructions are in Chinglish.

Nice job Rob...
I think you missed a spot on the right hinge.

Rudy

Thanks Rudy. I know I have to slow what's left of my brain down, but who has time to slow down any more? Maybe I need to sit down with the computer, a cold brew, lock the shop door and do some trial and error till it sinks in! I think I've tried everything else.

Axeman58 said:

Thanks Rudy. I know I have to slow what's left of my brain down, but who has time to slow down any more? Maybe I need to sit down with the computer, a cold brew, lock the shop door and do some trial and error till it sinks in! I think I've tried everything else.

Click to expand...

When I recieved my PID, I hooked it up to a power supply and ran through every function many times and understood it before the installation. Once you get one function down, write down the sequence in terms you understand and move on to the next. Write it all down. I pretty much had to re-translate the instructions into a sequence I understood. IF you're instructions are in English, you're way ahead of the game. After a few times, you won't need the map any more.


I'd lay off the 'cold ones' until you're successful. Keep a clear head and keep that door locked.

Rudy