wood handel oils ?

There's a number of different products that can be used. Teak, Tung, Linseed, Poly, etc. Personallay I prefer Tru-Oil, but it takes time to apply it correctly. I've never cared much for "Poly" finishes (like polyurethane) because to me it gives a "plastic"
look.

Each individual has their own way of applying finishes. I did a short video on Tru-Oil.....
https://youtu.be/uQgikXUhVfQ
 
Ed, that is a good tutorial on True-Oil finishing, I have followed it with great success on several knives. Thanks for sharing. On handles I do not use True-Oil on, like Ironwood, or Blackwood for example, I will simply finish off to about 800 grit or so and apply a few coats of Johnsons Paste wax, lightly hand buffing in between coats, followed by a thin coat of Renaissance Wax.
 
I typically use teak oil. I usually dip it and let it soak for the first coat, then apply three to five more coats after that, wiping down in between coats. After a couple days after the last coat, I use a coat of RenWax.
 
I've had good results soaking red oak burl handles overnight in thinned boiled linseed oil (50/50 BLO and turpentine). It was surprising how much oil the wood soaked up, and it really brought out the character of the burl. I gave it a few days to dry, then waxed it.
 
I use tung oil quite a bit, but never as a finish; more as a stain. I guess I never considered using it as a final finish. CA finishes seem to be my favorite for now. I've got a request for a dyed/stained GREEN colored handle on the knife I'm producing for a friend, and that's become a mess. I've gotten multiple green colored stains and they've all been absolutely horrible. The handle is a simple oak, and it's not taking color worth a darn.
 
thank,s guys i to dont like poly the plastic look will any oil bring out the natural wood color in red oak & ore cedar thank,s again
 
this subject is almost as touchy as epoxy. i use water based poly for most handles(no odor, dry to touch in 30min, recoat in 60 min). Deftane(an oil based poly) 50/50 with mineral spirits works well, 3 coats will protect the wood without that "plastic" look. how much an oil finish will darken your wood depends on the brand. the Deftand/mineral spirits blend did not darken any more than plain mineral spirits. i guess get some samples and find what works best for you.
 
I have been using danish oil and it leaves the wood natural looking and picks up the highlights the sanding hid in some woods.
 
I use a 2:1 mix raw linseed oil to Tru-Oil on most of my domestic woods. I also use raw tung oil mixed 1:1 with BLO plus a tablespoon or turpentine. All hand rubbed with my fingers till dry. Several coats till I get the finish I want for that knife.
 
I stain (when I stain) with aqua fortis and heat.

Then, I use Formby's Tung Oil finish. A lot of thin coats. Takes about a week or one or two coats per day with the finest steel wool rubbing you can get between the first several coats. These are to fill the grain of the wood. The last few coats are to seal everything. You get a translucent but slightly yellow layer over everything that his hard and water proof (but not water vapor proof). Then, due to my obsessive pleasure from polishing finished handles, several coats of Johnson's or Ren Wax.

These knives, like so many, are likely to be used by hunters, so barriers to fluids and also stains are important. Tung oil is supposed to be the most resistant of the natural oils for these things. It is used to coat paper and make umbrellas, so it has to be pretty good with water, right?

Just what I have learned.

Tru Oil is quite promising, also. Boiled Linseed Oil gives a finish much like Tung oil. I just happened to learn Tung Oil early on, and I have stayed with it.

a lot of this stuff works that way. Go with what you know works, and all.

kc
 
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