Sharpening Help?

buckmark13

buckmark13

Member
Hello, I'm looking for advice on how to best sharpen a knife without investing tons of money or needing years of experience. I have a basic pull through sharpener which works fairly fine, but I'm looking to be able to put a much sharper edge on them. These are mostly hunting and kitchen knives. I'm thinking a 2 grit stone would be best, but after looking at all the options I'm more confused than when I started. Any advice that would do the trick and keep it under $40 or so?


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You can get a set of stones for that amount of money. (Youtube "Murray Carter sharpening") but the problem with that is sharpening is a skill like any other. It's really not hard to sharpen a knife, but you can spend your entire life getting better at it. (link at top of page "Knife Making Supplies" then search "stones") USA Knifemaker offers all the supplies you'll need.

For not a whole lot more money, a Harbor Freight 1x30 belt grinder can be had for about 40 bucks on sale. Then go to Lee Valley and get a 400grit belt and a 15micron belt. (Youtube "https://youtu.be/Ptspof6CXOg") This is seriously the no-brainer approach to sharpening and as along as you are sharpening your own knives, you will do a far superior job (and quicker) than you ever will on stones- if you aren't really interested in learning how to get good with stones.

A piece of leather glued to a board, with some green chrome compound rubbed into it makes for a game-changing addition to your sharpening routine. A leather strop after sharpening will improve your results so much you'll think it's witchcraft.
 
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I bought a lanskey knife sharpening kit for about $40 an it gets the blades razor sharp. If you add a strop to the mix it will be like witchcraft how sharp the blade can get. Takes a little practice like anything. An old leather belt will work as a strop too.
 
Thanks everyone! I've been looking at the Lansky products as well in researching it; what specific products do you recommend?

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Another vote for the Lansky system and a strop. I have their delux 5 stone set and have been using it for several years. It can be time consuming but the results are awesome. I do have some if the diamond stones for the set too but for some reason I still prefer the regular stones.

Also I don't use the Lansky for scandi grinds or large kitchen knives. It always seemed easier to use bench stones on those for me.

-Aaron
 
I too have sharpening woes, especially when cutting in my edges. I free hand them on my 1x30 sander until they are really close, then do the final 'cuts' with my pull through carbide sharpening tool. The issue I'm having is that I have some places on the edge that are RAZOR sharp, and some places on the edge that are almost as dull as a hammer. I don't know if it's because I'm not using consistent force on the pulls through or what.

Obviously this is an art form that I've yet to learn. If I recall, one of the better pull through sharpeners is the Spyderco, especially if you get the extra fine and ultra fine grits.

Mine's just an accusharp, but almost identical in setup (however likely not quality)
 
Buckmark13, I have the 5 stone set and love the stones but miss the older clamp setup. Was a bit thicker and worked great on the thicker bladed skinners
 
malignity said:
I too have sharpening woes, especially when cutting in my edges. I free hand them on my 1x30 sander until they are really close, then do the final 'cuts' with my pull through carbide sharpening tool. The issue I'm having is that I have some places on the edge that are RAZOR sharp, and some places on the edge that are almost as dull as a hammer. I don't know if it's because I'm not using consistent force on the pulls through or what.
Click to expand...

This is a common problem when you are putting that first edge on the knife. What's happening is that the flat where the edge will go is not the same uniform thickness when you go to sharpen it. So you'll get parts that are razor sharp and then areas that still have a flat instead of an edge. This can be maddening. It really helps to have a caliper or micrometer when you are on your last belt during your bevel grinding. Maybe not even your last belt. Wherever you are in your process when you grind down to your scribed edge line(s). Measure along the edge from ricaso to tip. See where you are still thick by a couple thousandths. Now's the time to even that out.
 
I'll be the odd man out and vote for the Gatco version over the Lansky. I prefer the wider stones. Also the Gatco blade clamp has a step in it that holds the knife more securely and in a consistent position. The Lanskys used to have a step but the newer ones don't.
 
Mine has a step it was behind some poorly glued rubber pieces. I do concede to the wider stones idea. Shorter sharpening time.
 
Yep. Dad and son both have the Lansky systems. Had to do some searching to find one of the older clamps for my son. Can't remember if we took the rubber pieces out or not. Wish they didn't cut them so deep though. For smaller knives the blade sits too far back in the step and the stones hit the clamp before they touch the blade. On the Gatco, the step is maybe 1/8", the Lansky is more like 3/8" possibly 1/2".

Both brands can make a wicked sharp edge relatively easily. Just a matter of personal preference.

Edit to add... After some thinking and looking at some different Lansky clamp images in Bing, maybe that is the difference between the older Lansky clamps and the new ones. The old ones had a shallower step and no rubber? While the newer ones have a much deeper step and two pieces of rubber glued into the step? I'll have to take a look when I get home later.
 
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John Wilson
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Originally Posted by malignity
I too have sharpening woes, especially when cutting in my edges. I free hand them on my 1x30 sander until they are really close, then do the final 'cuts' with my pull through carbide sharpening tool. The issue I'm having is that I have some places on the edge that are RAZOR sharp, and some places on the edge that are almost as dull as a hammer. I don't know if it's because I'm not using consistent force on the pulls through or what.



This is a common problem when you are putting that first edge on the knife. What's happening is that the flat where the edge will go is not the same uniform thickness when you go to sharpen it. So you'll get parts that are razor sharp and then areas that still have a flat instead of an edge. This can be maddening. It really helps to have a caliper or micrometer when you are on your last belt during your bevel grinding. Maybe not even your last belt. Wherever you are in your process when you grind down to your scribed edge line(s). Measure along the edge from ricaso to tip. See where you are still thick by a couple thousandths. Now's the time to even that out.​


This is where hand sanding comes into play. Having a consistent thickness from plunge to tip, thats before heat treat. You can only take the edge to, at most, .030/.035 before heat treating. Once the heat treat is finished, move to hand sanding to take the bevels and edge down in thickness. The edge should be very close to sharp, when you finish hand sanding and it should be be very consistent in thickness the total length of the blade.
i sharpen on a belt machine and this is when it should be used. It takes only a few passes when the edge is close to finish.

I use a 2 x 72 wet belt machine, but I use a controlled angle to sharpen, followed by a set angle in the "V" sharpener. The results are scary sharp every time. Using controlled angles is the way to go if you want to be both consistent and sharp.

Fred
 
Thank you, Fred. I should have mentioned that I do all of my grinding after heat treat. Without stating that, my response could be misleading. Thank you for correcting that!
 
Knife honing isn't troublesome. It just takes a touch of practice. Once you have it, you'll have an extremely significant ability that'll last your lifetime. You can do it anyplace, at whatever time. Isn't that something independent from anyone else? What's more, when you're home, encompassed by the numerous points of interest of current living, your electric knife sharpener can complete your knife honing for you in two flashes. Genuinely mind boggling, to have the capacity to physically and electrically hone your blades. There'd be no situation you couldn't succeed.
http://www.knifefellas.com/best-knife-sharpener-reviews/
 
Hi

I have a 15 year old Lansky set, the stones, not the diamonds. I really like mine. You do have to be careful setting up to sharpen.

Later
 
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