Serrated wheel reface?
- Thread starter KCorn
- Start date
EdCaffreyMS
"The Montana Bladesmith"
Theres a couple of ways to go about fixing it..... the expensive way is to have the wheel resurfaced. The last I knew, that could be done by either Contact Rubber Corp., or SunRay Inc. (Sunray will resurface with urethane, which I've come to like better then rubber) The less expensive way is to find a lathe large enough to handle the wheel diameter, and "turn" the face of the wheel to flat. (In my area the local machine shops will do it) Of course this method has the detriment of making the wheel diameter slightly smaller, and can only be done a finite amount of times before a full resurface must be done on the wheel.
I suspect the concave surface likely came from "hogging" on smaller cross sections of steel..... thats a common thing with serrated wheels.
I suspect the concave surface likely came from "hogging" on smaller cross sections of steel..... thats a common thing with serrated wheels.
rhinoknives
Well-Known Member
If its not to bad of a concave on the wheel? I have redressed my 5" and 2" wheels with a file and then cloth backed sandpaper to take the shoulders off.
It will take away a little material but it costs next to nothing and has keep my wheels working for years longer.
So Ed, You are growing fond of urethane? I have always been a purist and used RUBBER!
Talk to me about how it's won you over?
It will take away a little material but it costs next to nothing and has keep my wheels working for years longer.
So Ed, You are growing fond of urethane? I have always been a purist and used RUBBER!
Talk to me about how it's won you over?
EdCaffreyMS
"The Montana Bladesmith"
Laurence: I initially had my doubts about urethane, but after having SunRay make contact wheels for my "Caffrey Platen", I've crossed over. It didn't take me long to learn that urethane of the same durometer (70) lasts MUCH longer on a contact wheel then rubber. It's also tougher, and doesn't "gouge" or have chunks come out of it when I do something dumb. I tried, for a long time to find a reason to NOT use urethane, but its less costly, holds up better, and last longer...... all of that is what made me a convert. 
rhinoknives
Well-Known Member
Laurence: I initially had my doubts about urethane, but after having SunRay make contact wheels for my "Caffrey Platen", I've crossed over. It didn't take me long to learn that urethane of the same durometer (70) lasts MUCH longer on a contact wheel then rubber. It's also tougher, and doesn't "gouge" or have chunks come out of it when I do something dumb. I tried, for a long time to find a reason to NOT use urethane, but its less costly, holds up better, and last longer...... all of that is what made me a convert.
Ed,
Thank you. Now do you think its just Sunrey's formula for urethane or all of it in general? I've heard of small wheels of urethane being smoked fairly easily. I wasn't there and don't know if the operator would have smoked wheels of Krytonite?
I will look into it again before my next wheel purchase or recovering.
EdCaffreyMS
"The Montana Bladesmith"
I honestly can't say, as the only urethane wheels I've used have been from SunRay. I never thought about it, but you may be onto something when you mention the "formula". It would make sense since SunRay's main business is making track rollers for military tracked vehicles.....so its gotta be tough and durable, otherwise "Uncle Sam" would pull the contract from them.
I hear a lot of folks bring up "small wheels", and I suspect that 90% of small wheel failures are "operator error"..... usually from running them too fast. I learned that one the hard way too.....burned up a few "small wheels", both rubber and urethane before the light finally came on, and I realized that it was the bearings heating up from too much speed, and wrecking the rubber/urethane. I don't know the specific SFPM, but can tell you that any wheel less then 1 1/2" never gets ran faster then 40% on my VFDs, and since setting that limit for myself, I've not destroy any small wheel(s).
I hear a lot of folks bring up "small wheels", and I suspect that 90% of small wheel failures are "operator error"..... usually from running them too fast. I learned that one the hard way too.....burned up a few "small wheels", both rubber and urethane before the light finally came on, and I realized that it was the bearings heating up from too much speed, and wrecking the rubber/urethane. I don't know the specific SFPM, but can tell you that any wheel less then 1 1/2" never gets ran faster then 40% on my VFDs, and since setting that limit for myself, I've not destroy any small wheel(s).
rhinoknives
Well-Known Member
Ed,
I've always had that 40/50% tops on the VFD for my 1/2" & 3/4" and never run the 5/16" fasted that 30%. I've never toasted a rubber wheel, yet.
I will ask if the Urethane wheels are from Sunrey and if they don't want to tell me I don't think I'll be buying.
I've always had that 40/50% tops on the VFD for my 1/2" & 3/4" and never run the 5/16" fasted that 30%. I've never toasted a rubber wheel, yet.
I will ask if the Urethane wheels are from Sunrey and if they don't want to tell me I don't think I'll be buying.
rhinoknives
Well-Known Member
By using even pressure with the file at slow speed, then I speed things up and I use the cloth backed paper to even and true the wheel while its moving in a kind of shoe shine as the wheel is rotating towards me I lower the shoulders of the wheel till its how I want it.
Start with 100 grit and take it up to 4-600 Its easier that it looks, it just takes some patience.