First try with leather, but...

Make sure your finger nails are trimmed when working with damp leather, you can leave a lot of marks and not even realize it.
 
I agree with the others. Prepare the leather before you dye it. I also like to dip my leather as opposed to swabbing it. Even if you prepare the leather it is tougher to get an even color distribution applying the dye by hand. You might also want to get yourself some reducer. The reducer will work with both the alcohol or oil based dyes. Using the reducer you can develop your own shades of colors by mixing the reducer with the dye. It takes a little trial and error to get the mixture you want, so use scrap pieces...Once you have a mixture you think is right for you run a piece of scrap through it and let it dry completely and then buff it out to see if that is indeed the color you were after. And remember to apply your lighter shades of die first and progress to darker shades or accents. You cant cover a bad dark color with a good light color. Dont mean to sound like a know it all...just trying to help.
 
Ok, thanks for advice so far, but here's another round of questions for you leather pros. Below are some questions I have about leather working for knives, and I guess what I'm wanting to know is what's the best direction to go as far as costs, what sells best, what excites your customers the most, what design or options makes things easier, etc. Basically, as a newb, where should I focus my attention on making sheaths for hunters, skinners, camp knives, working knives, etc. Fancy show pieces are waaaay down the road, if ever for me. What's working best for you guys, what sells best, what do most of your customers respond to? Feel free to add topics I haven't listed.

1. Stacked or folded sheaths.
2. Plain or tooled/carved.
3. If carved, traditional patterns or modern.
4. Scout or cross draw carry, either standard or optional.
5. Snaps or Sam Brown stud.
6. 8-9 oz really sturdy sheaths or 6-7 oz lighter weight sheaths.
7. Add-ons, like Zippo pouches or ferro rod loops
8. Best colors, natural, brown, black, etc.
9. Conchos, insets of snakeskin, alligator, etc.
10. Removable dangler or high riding or traditional lower belt loop
 
Anthony, Nice work, that is looking good! The only thing I can help you with is using the bevel tool. Try moving it about 1/4 of what you are moving it now. I tap and move at like a engraver. That will eliminate the choppy look around you logo. If needed I back up and smooth out spots while I am using the bevel tool. And only bevel one side of your cut. Other than that, I like the texture along the outside edge. And the weave looks nice and consistent! Your a leather worker!
 
Nice work with that basket weave and the surround. One thing I would wait to cut the stitching groove until after I had the sheath folded, glued, and the edge sanded smooth. It's easier to line up the grooves that way. I also punch the needle holes with a curtain needle on my drill press. The drill's not running when I do this it just shoves the needle through where marked by the stitching wheel. If any of the holes stray off out of the stitching groove on the back I straighten it out with an awl and smooth out the off hole with a carving spoon. Then I do a saddle stitch using a stitching pony. I find it's easier to keep the thread in the grooves front and back.

Doug
 
Steven and Doug, you've both got a good eye! The main two screw-ups I had, you guys spotted. First, the logo stamp, what a mess. I tried it on some scrap first and realized I couldn't stamp it with one whack of the mallet. Two whacks and it moved a little resulting in a double stamp. So, on the sheath, I used a quickie clamp and squeezed it down hard I thought. Not so I guess, it didn't look very good so I cut a line around it, tried beveling it. Then when basket weaving, of course I went over that line a tad. The more I tried to fix it, the worse it looked! Think I'll squash the snot out of the logo stamp with an arbor press next time!

Then, on the stitch groove, I was jamming to some tunes and so relieved that I had finished the basket stamp part with out too many mistakes, I got groove happy I guess. As soon as I did it, I realized it and may have said something nasty, loudly. Guess I'll drill the holes on the front side only and try to follow them to the back groove with an awl.

I dyed it black a little while ago, looks like that kind of downplays everything a little, so maybe it'll work out ok. This one if for my cousin and I'm already cutting him a big price break since he's family, so he'll just have to live with it. I'll post pics when its done.
 
Anthony, Those big stamps are tough to use. I put a American Flag on the back of my sheaths and it isn't easy to get it correct every time. The Arbor press is the way to go.
Damascus bowie and sheath3.JPG
 
Self I like your tooling. Like they have already told you I think the stitching groove may be hard to line up once folded. It takes a few to figure out all the, Oh Oh's!! LOL Once you have made a mistake you will figure out a better way to do that part of the operation next time!
 
CC, you're right, the stuff you screw up is the stuff you learn the most from. I glued the welt in this morning and punched stitch holes through it and the front only. Then glued them to the back. I hoping I can use an awl and be sure they come out right, it'll be tedious, but I'm pretty determined sometimes!
 
CC, you're right, the stuff you screw up is the stuff you learn the most from. I glued the welt in this morning and punched stitch holes through it and the front only. Then glued them to the back. I hoping I can use an awl and be sure they come out right, it'll be tedious, but I'm pretty determined sometimes!
That's how I've made mine for better than 40 years and the advantage is you only have to push the awl through one layer instead of three, making it easier to line up the holes properly. Just make sure after gluing up and sanding the edge even, to slightly re-adjust your stitch groover matches to the actual front distance before grooving the back.

As for dying I find the dip dying has simplified the process for full coverage colors. And as for down time - always have more than one project going at different sates - it eliminates most of the "waiting".
 
Chuck, on the first sheath, I grooved the front only. After glue up, I drilled holes all the way through and stitch grooved the back side lastly. I kind of connected the dots on the back with groover and it worked out pretty well. I'm going to try and sew this one tonight, we'll see....
 
Ok guys, here it is. My second leather sheath finished. It came out pretty good, I really like it. I was able to make my stitch grooves line up without too much problem, but next time I'll cut them later in the process. The black leather dye is awesome compared to the brown, even color in one coat!
SAM_2317.jpg SAM_2307.jpg
 
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