Size comparison

KDX

Well-Known Member
I made a small EDC type of knife (it's AEB-L and will be getting a handle in a day or two) and one of the hunting style knives I did in W2.

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Looking good. It's tough working on something so small, isn't it?

What's the handled knife in W2 compare to size wise? Maybe throw in something everyone could relate to, like a quarter.



Don
 
Good point. Working on small knives definitely is different, especially grinding the bevel. Not much there to work with.

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I think the grind came out not too bad, but the plunge lines are off. I think I know what I did wrong there so hopefully I don't do it again.

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I had one small piece of this wood and was able to (just barely) make two scales out of it.

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KDX the lines look mabbe a 16th or 32nd off. Only you and us will notice unless the new owner is meticulous about things. They are even and straight down the blade so thats the major place to see. You did a great job an only had a small error, remember it and improve. Great work and looks great. Gotta love making a handle with minimal waste. Hehe one scale and dont fudge up the cut splitting it right?
 
Thanks. I was cutting it really slow and along the line. The wood did chip on one of the drill holes. I'm learning to try to go a little slower. I think this one will be my EDC because the flats have some scratches in them that I wasn't able to buff out so I tried using a scotchbrite style belt to see what it would do and let's just say I'm not too happy with the looks so I will keep this one in my pocket. I'm learning as I go and hopefully won't make the same mistakes again. The last ones I heat treated I went to about 600 grit on the flats so I won't have to contend with the scratches this time. I'll see what other problems crop up though.
 
Slow is smooth and smooth is fast. Thats how we were taught to do things in the Infantry. Being a little slow is the hard part.
 
I definitely went slow today. I did a full flat grind on this one which turned out pretty much perfect....but the edge is too thick. Maybe I'll get it together on the next one.

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A trick to set your plunge lines is to use a chain saw file to cut them in before grinding or use a piece of painters tape. As far as the thickness just shoot for a dimes thickness pre ht. Dont beat your self up over it just practice and improve on each one. So this one was a little thick at the edge, the plunge lines are even and straight right? Repeat plunge process and take a little more off the edge on the next one and should be good to go.
 
This is ground post heat treat and I have a file jig that I clamp into a grinding jig. It's probably considered cheating by most folks, but I'm new to knife making and it seems to work for me. Someday when I have a lot of time and steel to destroy I will learn how to grind free hand. I'm still experimenting with the angle to set my work rest in relation to the platen to get a good thin edge vs a flat grind.
 
Jigging fine no one really criticises for using a jig. A piece of ducktape can help with a visual for the plunge lines. Don't beat yourself up over it just do like you said learn from the oopsies.
 
KDX, make some marks with a magic marker down the bevel to use as a guide. Then using your jig, adjust the angle used so the cut is toward the edge, not the spine. Gently do a bit more grinding - this should allow you to remove metal from edge without touching the spine. "IF" you do touch the spine a bit too much, just do a flat grind on platen which will flatten nicely removing any marks on the spine.

Ken H>
 
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