What do I need for my first frame lock build?

Justin Presson

Well-Known Member
Hey guys, again I turn to the knowledge of the forum.
I want to make a frame lock, they are about my favorite folder style. I'm not sure my skill set is there yet or my stock of tools but it's been eating at me and I really have the bug to make one.
I read Eds post again about thoughts on folders and it sounds smart to get the hardware up front and design my folder around that.
So I ask what all do I need to order? I want to get it right as those little parts are expensive!

I will need a pivot, stop pin, standoffs, bronze washers, detent ball....???

Also what tools will I need, bits, counterbores, taps

Lastly what titanium is easy for me to work with.

Thanks for the info and input.
Justin
 
Yes to the above and I, like you am working on my fist but I opted to build a liner lock since the same materials are used as in the construction of the frame lock but are easier to cut and cheaper on the pocket book. I made a working model of my folder first then just mic'ed out what I wanted. Also Don robinson sell's blueprints if you need one to help get you started.

I am using .050 - .060 Ti for the liner but I have worked with .138 and .150 using nothing more than the harbor freight metal cutting bandsaw, the 70 dollar model. It has adjustable speeds which you will need for the TI and I find Ti shapes better for me with my grinder on its slowest pulley. If it gets hot it work hardens. the .050 -.060 cuts like butter which as mentioned above is why I chose a liner lock first.

Consider quality taps and tap oil.

Add reamers and possibly an eye lap and depending on how you want to build the pivot maybe even a bronze bearing to fit over your pivot.

All of this advice is worth what it cost since I am in the same boat as you but it is what I have learned so far and advice from others. Looking forward to seeing what we both come up with!
 
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The two main things that you need to prepare for when getting into folders....... 1. You must change your mindset....when making straight knives, we generally think if fractions of an inch....with folders you have to think in THOUSANDTHS of an inch. It sounds simple, but its essentially "taking another step up the ladder. 2. When you order tooling for folders, be prepared to spend what you think is a big chunk.....and when it arrives, you get a 3x5" padded envelope. :)

If you're tapping Ti by hand, its very common to break taps. DO NOT use the bits on a "drill/tap" chart for Ti..... for example, a standard drill/tap chart will tell you to use a #50 bit for a 2-56 thread.....instead, use a #48 or #49. (you won't break so many taps, and there will be plenty of thread depth.)

If you're like most of us, you will likely order tooling as you go....because you're going to get started, then realize you don't have exactly what you need. Just go with it, and over time you will acquire what you need. Also keep in mind that building folders adds a lot of consumable tools to your shop.... drill bits need to be the "good" stuff. Taps wear out quickly in Ti, and all the other consumables will go quicker with folders then with straight knives.
 
....2. When you order tooling for folders, be prepared to spend what you think is a big chunk.....and when it arrives, you get a 3x5" padded envelope.....

That has been a real surreal moment Ed getting such a small or thin package in and wondering how the heck i am supposed to work with stuff so small my gorilla sized hands (14 ring)
 
I have several tweezers laying around the shop for picking up tiny folder parts with my big,old fingers.
I like the ones that are spring loaded to stay closed,you have to squeeze to open them and they stay closed by spring pressure.
 
Yes to the above and I, like you am working on my fist but I opted to build a liner lock since the same materials are used as in the construction of the frame lock but are easier to cut and cheaper on the pocket book. I made a working model of my folder first then just mic'ed out what I wanted. Also Don robinson sell's blueprints if you need one to help get you started.

I am using .050 - .060 Ti for the liner but I have worked with .138 and .150 using nothing more than the harbor freight metal cutting bandsaw, the 70 dollar model. It has adjustable speeds which you will need for the TI and I find Ti shapes better for me with my grinder on its slowest pulley. If it gets hot it work hardens. the .050 -.060 cuts like butter which as mentioned above is why I chose a liner lock first.

Consider quality taps and tap oil.

Add reamers and possibly an eye lap and depending on how you want to build the pivot maybe even a bronze bearing to fit over your pivot.

All of this advice is worth what it cost since I am in the same boat as you but it is what I have learned so far and advice from others. Looking forward to seeing what we both come up with!
Thanks Shane maybe we can learn a bit together here.

I mainly want to build one for myself but who knows I might like making them. I did enjoy my friction folder build.
 
Here is kind of what im thinking.

Pivot 3/16 chain ring bolt
7a6a8bd123db099281ce469f0b562aec.jpg


If I'm understanding these right I can use this as my stop pin. I could drill hole and bolt it together.
13cc3721fc7ce590ca26a823db454cd6.jpg


Use these standoffs, same thing drill holes and bolt together?
5e211231c6b733862fa26ab744f55073.jpg


use screws like this for the standoffs on each side
1efb7509aaf9bdf2c889686c0c917c89.jpg


Bronze washers
46c7088c31b78ac9476fadc15c9fe461.jpg


Detent ball
99eec3f0d0c9482d77079f58b657ca6c.jpg




I was thinking if I can screw it all together then I won't have to tap the Ti or am I way off here?
 
You can use all of it if the blade, with the thickness of the washers you choose, + .001 equals the distance between the shoulders of the stop pins. Tapping adds strength and removes slop if its tapped square to the frame over just drilling a pilot and screwing into the stand-off.
 
Justin I tried to send you a PM but your mailbox is full. I have not made any folders from scratch but have assembled a few, sanded down pivots and standoffs etc.
 
Will the 3/16 chain ring bolts be a good size for my pivot? What sizes does everyone typically use.
I probably do need to tap the ti at some point so I probably should look into taps especially for fastening my belt clip.
What about counterbores for the pivot and such. Where does everyone get those kind of tools?
 
I'm about 75 pages in to "The tactical folding knife" thought I should do some more research before buying any parts. Some great into and illustrations that should greatly benefit me.

I'm going to try and get a sketch of the design i want to make and I will post it for critique here.
 
Here is the design I drew up today. It's kind of a mess since I was drawing everything in.
Tell me what you think right or wrong if you see something I need to change.
 
Justin, that's going to look good! Only issue I see is that little bit of the back of the blade showing up front when closed. You may have to reshape the front bolster area just a tad, which will mean the thumbstud will have to move, and on and on. Design process drove me crazy when I tried it. So, are you going liner lock or frame lock? I'd vote liner lock, seems easier and leaves you with more finishing choices with scales.
 
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