Hope to get some helpful advice.

wall e

wall e

Well-Known Member
I dont know if the steel is M2 or D2 steel that I am using for blades but I want to put a mirror like polish on the current knife in progress. <br />
The old blades have rust on them so I dont know how to tell if they are M2 or D2 steel. They are Simmonds brand blades. The company sells both types of blades in the same size. So if some one can throw the pup a bone it would be greatly appreciated.<br/> I posted th8n on another part of the forum hoping to get some help with my dillema.
 
wall e said:
I dont know if the steel is M2 or D2 steel that I am using for blades but I want to put a mirror like polish on the current knife in progress. <br />
The old blades have rust on them so I dont know how to tell if they are M2 or D2 steel. They are Simmonds brand blades. The company sells both types of blades in the same size. So if some one can throw the pup a bone it would be greatly appreciated.<br/> I posted th8n on another part of the forum hoping to get some help with my dillema.
Click to expand...

All I can say it the large carbide clumps in D2 make it difficult to get a mirror finish. Its usually an orange peel kind of look.

Also if this steel is already HTed and it now has rust? The rust is in the steel and will most likely resurface after you clean it off.
 
rhinoknives, thanks for the what will quite possibly happen to my polish info. I am hoping for the best that the rust wont return since it was surface rust. I ground a bunch of the blade down and away.
 
Keep your fingers crossed!
I suggest you graduate to using known new steels. Takes a lot of these headaches way as to whats the steel is etc..
 
True. I just need to sell enough of these to make a profit and buy parts and pieces to get to where I can use known steels. The only reason for the M2 D2 question was if there was a difference in technique or materials to use. It sounds to be a steel is steel when it comes to polishing. The difference is in the quality of finish, orange peel or smooth. I know in the future I want to make a knife that is a durable blade and will hold an edge for a long time like these blades do.
 
For smaller hunting knives I recommend ABE-L steel in a thickness of 1/8" or 5/32" It's great to work and finish, holds a super good edge, and sharpens quite easily. I feel D2 is a fine steel but more useful in larger knives. Frank
 
Frank thanks for the input and wisdom. By larger blades your referring to longer and wider like fighters and bowies? The reason I asked about the flex is to make an all around hunter and a 11" combat knife for some of my buddies who are finishing their 20+ yrs for retirement Another reason for the planer blades and the D2 use is where I live a large portion of the population is hunters and want a nlade that can skin an animal with out having to stop and sharpen or touch up the edge. These planer blades turn out that way. One my grandfather made for the ODFW trapper skinned 3 elk and 2 deer before needing a touch up.
 
Last edited:
533e8500d1b8536ad8c3ac93fe3cb2bd.jpg

Here is one of the knives my grandfather made from these old planer blades. Is all thats needed for most hunters around here its sharp and stays sharp an is old school simple.
 
I just was given a 30" blade the other day to use and Idk just how to use it other than as a pice of stock and cut what I need from it.
 
I see now , said the blind man. I was a little confused I thought it was bar stock. I have a few planer blades that I use for a sen (Sword file ) same kind of blade style . They are made from CPM 10-V . These work real well for my purpose . That M-2 should work well . I have seen some real good cutting blades made from that . Good luck...... Bubba
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top