Well, I don't want to compare the two. I am chiming in because I have been combining the two (with 15n20) in pattern welding. They weld together beautifully, and since they have a similar heat treatment, make a great combo. If you want more than just black-and-silver in Damascus, adding the 80crv2 is a good option. It is an in-between grey. I am doing this for swords and bowies. Big, tough things, but with good edge holding. So far, I have been twisting them, and welding both with and without flux. Without flux is better, if you can bring the whole area to be welded up to temp at once and set the whole weld at one pass. Otherwise, you have to flux beyond where the first weld will end.
I am not putting much 15n20 in the area near the blade's edge, and I quench in (editing typo - I said I quench in Parks, but I don't quench these in Parks, I use Canola oil). So I get full performance from the 15n20 in the thin areas. In the thicker spots, it may not fully-harden, but that isn't a big deal in the spine of a dao. Springy is best there, anyway. I guess I could bite the bullet and use L6, but I just don't want to complicate my life that much.
edited... ok, it is a couple of months later, and I have switched to L6. Still like tri-color Damascus from these steels, though.
Anyway, these two steels (o1 and 80crv2) make a heck of a combination for sword blades, and with judicious use of nickel-bearing steels, are quite attractive. I am thinking of making some sanmei camp knives out of them, too.