What RPM buffer to buy?

I have been thinking about moving up to a REAL buffer instead of using my old grinder with loose and sewn buffs on it. My grinder if fairly robust, I think it is in the 1/2 to 3/4 HP range (the built data tag is worn off) but the shafts only extend about 2 1/2" making it tough to buff all parts of my knives equally. I have been thinking about getting a 3/4 HP Baldor buffer since the shafts extend almost 6 1/2". But I can't decide which model to buy the 1800 RPM or 3600 RPM model. Can anyone give me some direction? I know that the higher HP models are more dangerous and know to be careful. I've already had a knife ripped from my hand 2-3 times and thrown across the room and know to hold on tight. I will be using the buffer for buffing only and not for sharpening - I can use my current grinder for that. I don't know if the higher RPM model will heat the handle material up too much or if it will matter at all. Any feedback?

Thanks in advance,
Tom
 
I use the Baldor 3600 rpm, I know a lot of people don't like the high speed and talk about burning, but I've used mine for over twenty years and never had any problems. could be that I know this machine and what it can and can't do. in my early years I did have it throw a couple knives and I'll tell you what, they move with authority.that being said, any buffer can do that,maybe at two hundred mph instead of four. it will burn steel if you use to much pressure for too long. and it's probably the most dangerous machine in my shop. if it ever dies I'd buy the same one.
 
I have both, and as already said. Either will take a blade and sling it.. Scarry. Of the two. I have decided on the 1800 as my main buffer. The other is a backup. and in a pinch I would have a replacement. But if or when this one is beyond repair. Ill replace it with another at 1800 rpm.

Have fun and be safe
Randy
 
Bladegrinder & Randy,
Thanks for your input! But now I'm on the fence. I guess that maybe it's just a matter of preference and getting to know whatever machine you have. I'm not going to outrun a flying knife at either 200 or 400 mph! Maybe I'll just flip a coin....Can anyone else help me out with this decision and be the tie breaker?
I appreciate your words of wisdom.
Tom
 
Lots of good info here:
http://www.caswellplating.com/buffman.htm



speed-chart.jpg
 
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Mark,
Thanks for the info. Based upon this it appears that the 3600 RPM buffer would be best for the metals. I guess that I will just have to go quick and light on stag, woods, micarta, ctek and everything else.
I will have to see if I can cut an paste your two charts. Good stuff...!
Tom
 
I like the 1800rpm versus the 3600rpm. The buffing compound stays on a little better and I use a lot of D-2 steel. It gives it a better polish. Anyway, that's what works best for me. Steve
 
Mine is a 3600 also but I hate to use it on knives. It scares the heck out of me! It once took a fuel valve from a motorcycle and ricocheted it across the street into my neighbors yard.
 
I found a used Baldor 3600 rpm for a really good deal so guess what speed I have??

The 3600 works fine for all of my handle buffing and I have another wheel I use for buffing the wire off of freshly sharpened knives. The hardness of your buffing wheel is very important for the material you are working.

Mine works fine with a soft Muslin wheel for handle materials. Just keep things moving so you don't burn and most importantly always keep your work below the start of the fourth quadrant if you are looking at the wheel from the left side.

You will eventually get a blade grabbed out of your hands and hopefully chucked into tne wall with a big WACK!

You sort of stand there in shock for awhile and then remember to look to make sure you have all of your parts and no foreign objects are sticking into you.

I have a very large full thick cowhide apron I had made to protect the family jewels and the arteries in my legs and gut.
It hang all the way down passed my knees and I wear jeans and boots in the shop always. No flip flops and shorts even in the summer time. better safe than sorry!

Aren't you ready to buy a buffer now? :what!:
 
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I'll throw in my opinion.....1800rpm or less! In my entire knife making career, I have owned ONE 3600+rpm buffer. The overriding factor for knifemakers versus other occupations that use buffers......we need to very aware of HEAT. Concerning buffers, speed=heat.

Probably more important is the safety issue....plainly put, a buffer of any type/speed is the most dangerous machine in a knifemakers shop, but doubly so with the fast RPM buffers. I've been at this a long time, and have seen some ugly accidents involving buffers...and even a couple of deaths.

I don't mean to step on any toes, but don't buy a "fast" buffer because it's less expensive. A 1725-1850rpm buffer, with the correct 6-8" wheel(s), will give you better results, in a much safer manner.
 
I'm with the slow guys.
After many years, if you're like me, you'll come to realize that a couple passes with the next higher grit paper or belt will cut your time on a buffer down considerably. The buffer isn't an excuse to leave out a step. At present, 5 minutes, if that, at the buffer is sufficient to get great results if you laid the groundwork for it. When I go to the buffer, I'm already at a belt mirror polish from a 2500-3000 grit belt. As for handles, 600 and up is a good starting point. Regardless of what you get, you may want to try out the felt wheels. They're safer as far as grabbing and keep my grind lines crisper, especially on hollow grinds.

Rudy
 
Don't buy a buffer! The most dangerous piece of equipment in your shop. About the time you get the blade good and sharp it will snatch it out of your hand and throw it at you.

Instead glue a piece of short shag carpet (cheap bathroom carpet) on your disk grinder. Now you are buffing on the side and there is nothing to grab the blade and you are buffing 4.5" wide rather than about one inch. Works really well with the Interchangeable Disk System. I have been using it ever since I started selling the system and I show it at every conference that I attend. People always are amazed that they never thought about it.

Let me know if I can help you.
 
Steve, Slatroni, Rhinoknives, Ed, Rudy & Wayne,
Thanks for all of your input! I am honored to have so many years of knifemaking experience to guide me in this decision! I think that I've made up my mind to go with the slower 1800 RPM speed Baldor model. I may have to fashion myself a leather apron also which should be a real joy to wear in the middle of summer here in Orlando! So far I have been "lucky" in that the 2-3 times my knife has been snatched from my hands it has ended up ricocheting off my B&D Workmate that my buffer sits on and slamming on the concrete floor. It has only resulted in a few hours of re-grinding, sanding and buffing but no trips to the ER (yet). I'm only about a 1/4 mile from FL Hospital so if the worst happens help is close by....
Thanks Again for all of your guidance!
Tom
 
Don't buy a buffer! The most dangerous piece of equipment in your shop. About the time you get the blade good and sharp it will snatch it out of your hand and throw it at you.

Instead glue a piece of short shag carpet (cheap bathroom carpet) on your disk grinder. Now you are buffing on the side and there is nothing to grab the blade and you are buffing 4.5" wide rather than about one inch. Works really well with the Interchangeable Disk System. I have been using it ever since I started selling the system and I show it at every conference that I attend. People always are amazed that they never thought about it.

Let me know if I can help you.

Wayne,
Shag Carpet? In Avocado green or bright Orange? Whenever I hear shag carpet I think of those colors from the 60's-7o's and doing, well you know!

That sounds like a great solution to the dangers of the buffer. I do want to clarify that the reason I got the 3600 was that didn't I didn't know any better some 14 years ago and just saw a Baldor buffer for a real low price.
I don't buff out my steel blades, just buff off my sharpening work and finishing handles with white rouge.
The buffer is still very dangerous at any speed.

So do you load the shag carpet with the desired rouge?
 
Yeah, Laurence, I do use buffing compound on the WHITE carpet and BTW be sure and buff with the edge down or you will wind up with the floor covered with white lint.
 
Wayne, your disk idea sure sounds like it would do a GREAT job on blades - maybe even help keep grind lines more crisp. BUT - a disk wouldn't work so well on handles - would it?

Ken H>
 
Ken I think that it will work fine on flat areas where you can use a wide flat buffing area. If you have a contoured handle or with finger groves probably not so well.
 
I'm going to try the shag carpet idea, once I get the funds to order more plates from you Wayne. I swung by Walmart the other day,and couldn't find a carpet I liked. Guess I'm picky. haha
 
That's sorta what I was thinking Wayne - flat surfaces sound like that is a great idea. I just might have to try that.

Ken H>
 
I'm going to try the shag carpet idea, once I get the funds to order more plates from you Wayne. I swung by Walmart the other day,and couldn't find a carpet I liked. Guess I'm picky. haha

What :34: No Avocado Green or bright Orange shag carpet?
 
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