Fred Rowe
Well-Known Member
We have 3 passarounds going on different knife sites and are starting to get some feedback in. I'll post it all here, positive or negative, no editing.
Thanks to Ted Erdelyi for taking the time to field test this new tool. :thumbup:
The ERU Sharpener designed and built by Fred Rowe is a handy tool. I've used it for about 2 weeks and here are my thoughts.
Right out of the box you can tell it's a quality made tool, it's not a cheaply made drag through sharpener like the little ceramic crossed rod type. This is a meaty tool that you don't have to be afraid to use.
Because of Fred's unique design one of the major shortcomings of the other type of drag through sharpener is overcome by the use of an essentially infinitely adjustable angle, although it is engraved with marks delineating the angle in degrees you don't need to know the exact angle of your edge. Although it is extremely handy when you know the angle of your edge. Set the degree indicator, tighten the thumb screw, insert into the sheath, (which by the way is an excellent quality sheath and necessary for field use) and slowly, evenly draw the blade from the back/tang of the blade to the top keeping the center line of your blade perpendicular to the sheath, parallel to the thumb screw. This is much easier than it sounds it's a natural grip and motion.
I used this sharpener on a variety of blades from a cheap $10 has station bucket knife up to my AG Russell K87 One Hand Framelock. Basic instructions if your not sure what the angle is to use a sharpie to mark the edge on both sides and draw through the sharpener, next look at the ink mark, if it's clean on the bottom and not evenly to the top you need to decrease your angle and if it's the other way around an the mark is removed from the top, increase your angle.
Now here's one of the problems I had, being I free hand sharpen most of the time, because I'm not perfect and can't maintain a perfect angle, after time my edges become slightly convex. That is to say a little rounded so when I first drew the knife through the sharpener I got two thin scratches right where the peak of the arc was, these knives took a while to basically reprofile the blade's edge. It accomplished this reasonably well it just took about 15 minutes as every draw removed a little more material till it was removing the full bevel set.
Once I had a consistent angle it was easy to maintain it. I used this on two machetes, an Ontario SP 8 survival machete, (iirc it has 1095 for blade steel) which because of its thickness required additional time to reprofile, again once the constant angle was achieved maintaining it was a snap. Now the regular 18" standard no name brand machete dressed up very quick to start with and in the field was also quick.
What I was beginning to discover was the better and more consistent your bevel the quicker the ERU would do is job post of the reason is because the carbide cutters are angled so as not to be to aggressive to the edge. This is a good thing and because of this it doesn't tear up the blades edge by taking cops and chunks off the blade like the cheaper drag throughs do.
I tried it on a Case Seahorse whittled, here I found that while giving me a working edge it wouldn't put a razor edge back on the thin blades but Fred never claimed you could put a mirror polished shaving sharp edge on your knife with this tool.
Next I tried a AG Russell K87 One hand knife with an AUS8 steel, this knife was last sharpened on a Lansky, clamp type sharpening system so the bevel was consistent for the most part, (Lansky's because of their design tend to decrease the bevel the father from the center line you get and this becomes apparent on the belly of the knife but that's a different sharpening system and I'm here to talk about the ERU, maybe later I'll do a side by side comparison if I ever get one to test with again) anyway back on point the K87 even with the AUS8 touched up very quickly and gave me a great working edge.
Every tool has it's ideal conditions for use, hence the phrase, "...the right tool for the right job..." The ERU sharpener falls into that category. I have several tools that I rarely use, some of these are extremely expensive but when I need them you can rest assured that they're the best tool for the job at that time.
This isn't the end all be all sharpening tool/system, (let's call it a tool, a system to me has more steps, variations, adaptability) this sharpener is infinitely adjustable and very easy to use so unlike any off the other systems out there it's very portable quick to set up.
Also unlike many pull through sharpeners this is not a fragile tool and with the leather sheath that it comes with you have a durable great looking way to carry it conveniently on your belt along with your other fields gear. (Carry on belt or vest)
Recommendations, a Kydex sheath might bring the price down a little, ceramic rods on the opposite sides to polish the edge, (they would already be at the proper angle on the opposite side (180°) of the carbide bits. Maybe the addition of a lock washer to the thumb screw because when you do very acute angles the pressure from the blade is father from the pivot and the mechanical advantage increases, you have more leverage so it needs to be more secure.
Because this is a precision tool you won't be able to easily reprofile a badly damaged edge but you'll be able to maintain a good bevel and keep a sharp edge that's just been dulled by regular use. This to me is a robust knife steel with the ability to remove or realign an existing edge on your blade. This will be a great field expedient sharpener for maintaining edges that stated out sharp. (I do want to add that when gripped in a bench vise the ERU is a lot more aggressive and easier to use on edges that are really bad.
In my shop I use mostly bench stones and hones, I carry a few diamond hones in my bag and pocket for touch ups, I have powered wet stones, strops, basically everything I need to put an edge on anything" Would I buy one? Yes I would and when I get a little extra cash, (this could take awhile) I'll contact Fred for one of his ERU Sharpeners.
If you find your one of those people who due to their work are constantly resharpening their blades, (landscapers, mechanics, tree service) or are still learning how to put a working edge on your knife this is for you, even more refined edges are possible by varying pressure and draw against the carbide.
The price point quoted may be a little on the high side for some but consider the Sharpmaker and the price those go for, along with the portability of the ERU and ease of use in the field.
I believe there are still slots available in the passaround and if your not sure sign up and try it out, I believe you'll be quite surprised. If you're going to use a pull through sharpener why not use the best you can find.
Thanks to Ted Erdelyi for taking the time to field test this new tool. :thumbup:
The ERU Sharpener designed and built by Fred Rowe is a handy tool. I've used it for about 2 weeks and here are my thoughts.
Right out of the box you can tell it's a quality made tool, it's not a cheaply made drag through sharpener like the little ceramic crossed rod type. This is a meaty tool that you don't have to be afraid to use.
Because of Fred's unique design one of the major shortcomings of the other type of drag through sharpener is overcome by the use of an essentially infinitely adjustable angle, although it is engraved with marks delineating the angle in degrees you don't need to know the exact angle of your edge. Although it is extremely handy when you know the angle of your edge. Set the degree indicator, tighten the thumb screw, insert into the sheath, (which by the way is an excellent quality sheath and necessary for field use) and slowly, evenly draw the blade from the back/tang of the blade to the top keeping the center line of your blade perpendicular to the sheath, parallel to the thumb screw. This is much easier than it sounds it's a natural grip and motion.
I used this sharpener on a variety of blades from a cheap $10 has station bucket knife up to my AG Russell K87 One Hand Framelock. Basic instructions if your not sure what the angle is to use a sharpie to mark the edge on both sides and draw through the sharpener, next look at the ink mark, if it's clean on the bottom and not evenly to the top you need to decrease your angle and if it's the other way around an the mark is removed from the top, increase your angle.
Now here's one of the problems I had, being I free hand sharpen most of the time, because I'm not perfect and can't maintain a perfect angle, after time my edges become slightly convex. That is to say a little rounded so when I first drew the knife through the sharpener I got two thin scratches right where the peak of the arc was, these knives took a while to basically reprofile the blade's edge. It accomplished this reasonably well it just took about 15 minutes as every draw removed a little more material till it was removing the full bevel set.
Once I had a consistent angle it was easy to maintain it. I used this on two machetes, an Ontario SP 8 survival machete, (iirc it has 1095 for blade steel) which because of its thickness required additional time to reprofile, again once the constant angle was achieved maintaining it was a snap. Now the regular 18" standard no name brand machete dressed up very quick to start with and in the field was also quick.
What I was beginning to discover was the better and more consistent your bevel the quicker the ERU would do is job post of the reason is because the carbide cutters are angled so as not to be to aggressive to the edge. This is a good thing and because of this it doesn't tear up the blades edge by taking cops and chunks off the blade like the cheaper drag throughs do.
I tried it on a Case Seahorse whittled, here I found that while giving me a working edge it wouldn't put a razor edge back on the thin blades but Fred never claimed you could put a mirror polished shaving sharp edge on your knife with this tool.
Next I tried a AG Russell K87 One hand knife with an AUS8 steel, this knife was last sharpened on a Lansky, clamp type sharpening system so the bevel was consistent for the most part, (Lansky's because of their design tend to decrease the bevel the father from the center line you get and this becomes apparent on the belly of the knife but that's a different sharpening system and I'm here to talk about the ERU, maybe later I'll do a side by side comparison if I ever get one to test with again) anyway back on point the K87 even with the AUS8 touched up very quickly and gave me a great working edge.
Every tool has it's ideal conditions for use, hence the phrase, "...the right tool for the right job..." The ERU sharpener falls into that category. I have several tools that I rarely use, some of these are extremely expensive but when I need them you can rest assured that they're the best tool for the job at that time.
This isn't the end all be all sharpening tool/system, (let's call it a tool, a system to me has more steps, variations, adaptability) this sharpener is infinitely adjustable and very easy to use so unlike any off the other systems out there it's very portable quick to set up.
Also unlike many pull through sharpeners this is not a fragile tool and with the leather sheath that it comes with you have a durable great looking way to carry it conveniently on your belt along with your other fields gear. (Carry on belt or vest)
Recommendations, a Kydex sheath might bring the price down a little, ceramic rods on the opposite sides to polish the edge, (they would already be at the proper angle on the opposite side (180°) of the carbide bits. Maybe the addition of a lock washer to the thumb screw because when you do very acute angles the pressure from the blade is father from the pivot and the mechanical advantage increases, you have more leverage so it needs to be more secure.
Because this is a precision tool you won't be able to easily reprofile a badly damaged edge but you'll be able to maintain a good bevel and keep a sharp edge that's just been dulled by regular use. This to me is a robust knife steel with the ability to remove or realign an existing edge on your blade. This will be a great field expedient sharpener for maintaining edges that stated out sharp. (I do want to add that when gripped in a bench vise the ERU is a lot more aggressive and easier to use on edges that are really bad.
In my shop I use mostly bench stones and hones, I carry a few diamond hones in my bag and pocket for touch ups, I have powered wet stones, strops, basically everything I need to put an edge on anything" Would I buy one? Yes I would and when I get a little extra cash, (this could take awhile) I'll contact Fred for one of his ERU Sharpeners.
If you find your one of those people who due to their work are constantly resharpening their blades, (landscapers, mechanics, tree service) or are still learning how to put a working edge on your knife this is for you, even more refined edges are possible by varying pressure and draw against the carbide.
The price point quoted may be a little on the high side for some but consider the Sharpmaker and the price those go for, along with the portability of the ERU and ease of use in the field.
I believe there are still slots available in the passaround and if your not sure sign up and try it out, I believe you'll be quite surprised. If you're going to use a pull through sharpener why not use the best you can find.