Hydra- WIP

lerman

lerman

Well-Known Member
Hello,

it's been a while since i last made a full WIP, i have just started making some knives for the helsinki knife show in january and this is the first project.

hope you'll enjoy it.



cutting the O1 on the band saw




rough contouring




final contouring


marking the edge


marking the grind height


this is a good opportunity to show off my new file/grinder guide, it's made out of stainless with a full carbide faces, works great.







rough grinding, 40 grit ceramic belt



and after, 300, 160, 100, 65, 45 and 30 3M trizact belts


rough grinding of the false edge



and fine tuning with a file



drilling the holes



and some weight reducing holes



flatning the snake wood scales on the disc sander


drilling the wood





rough contouring of the handle, 36 grit AO belt



and a 220 J-flex belt


some hand sanding



220 grit


320 grit


rough shaping of the handle with the stop pin machining method






some more shaping with 320 flex shaft


hand sanding- 600 grit


up too 8000 grit


and after some oil
 
Interesting WIP, wonderful knife as a result.

Where can I buy one of the 45 deg cutters like yours?
 
gorgeous... I like that a lot. Can you explain a bit about the stop pin machining method with that 45 degree cutter? Do you think it could be adapted to a drill press with some careful hand feeding?
 
Bruce Bump said:
Interesting WIP, wonderful knife as a result.

Where can I buy one of the 45 deg cutters like yours?
Click to expand...

i bought mine at the local hardware store but you can find them on ebay as well, it's a 90 (45) degrees solid carbide burr

DropPoint said:
gorgeous... I like that a lot. Can you explain a bit about the stop pin machining method with that 45 degree cutter? Do you think it could be adapted to a drill press with some careful hand feeding?
Click to expand...

i hope my english won't be a problem here :D i'v first seen the stop pin machining method in another knife making forum by a knife maker named tom watson, before i used to do the same chore with an upside down wood router with a ball bearing mounted cutter but this was only for wood, g10 and micarta, the stop pin works the same as the ball bering and lets you cut only to a certain point, in this case it's the outline of the handle, you can set the depth of the angled cut by adjusting the hight of the Z axis on your mill, you will need a flat surface with a small dia. steel pin (preferably hardened), the pin shoud protrude about 0.02" from the flat surface, you center the tip of the cutter to the pin and then you move only the Y axis so that the cutter will sit flush with the edge of the pin (this step is only needed when working on thiner parts).
this wethod works best on matirials with uniform structure like G10 and micarta it cuts so well that you don't have to finish it and it can be laft as is if you want this kind of look, with oily woods like ironwood and snakewood it's a bit harder to cut on some areas, and with a crbide cutter you can even work on titanium but slowly :D

droppoint, i think it can be done with a drillpress but you will need the center it by hand, shouldn't be too complicated.
 
Lee, very interesting. Thanks for that explanation of the stop pin method. I can see myself try this soon.
 
I just tried that "stop pin machining method" using a 45º bevel and milling machine on a scrap piece of Kirinite I won from The Boss. It does put a nice bevel - I think I'll use that for finishing the knife using the Krinite scales.

Thank You Lerman for the thread - every little thing helps.

Ken H>
 
thanks for the explanation of that stop pin method as well. I will have to give it a try and see how well it works with just a drill press.
 
marking the file work/jimping


after using a round file and a split mandrel on the flex shaft




after the heat treatment


some cleaning




etching the logo and name




final polishing of the handles


and final hand sanding


 
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