Hidden Tang Construction, my way

I'm a new maker that has done only full tang with scales so this helped me alot. Alot of times it's hard (for me anyway) to visualize how something should look when I read an article about it. All of these tutorials are a BIG help. Thanks alot.
 
Bruce - Great tutorial! Thank you for making it look so very simple. :eek:

Two Questions:

1) I've been making hidden tang knives almost exclusively and have learned a few of the procedures you show by trial and error. The process you show that I am not able to mimic is milling out the tang slot in the guard. I have no milling capabilities, so I use small files to do the job. I'm getting better, but I still have much room for improvement.

Other than going slow and careful with the files, what tricks have you up your sleeve that might help me get a better/tighter fit from this process?

2) Other than using a ruler to check the straightness of the handle glue-up, what tricks do you have for making sure the blade is square and parallel with the handle block? I often end up with my blade turned a little ****-eyed in the block and that throws off the whole process for there.

Thanks again Bruce.
 
Thanks for the tutorial. I've been wanting to try a hidden tang and this is very informative.



mo
 
Thanks for the effort of putting this together, Bruce.
I'll be adding it to my Favorites.

Only Hidden Tang I've ever done was a Bark River Settler, and the handle was a 2 piece.
I do have my Smoke Jumper to do, but that, too, will be 2 piece.

Here's the Settler. I wanted there to be more handle to it.
That was also my first attempt at making a guard.
 

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Bruce I've done quite a few hidden tangs but I still learn something from this thread. I liked the spring trike, I'll have to try that. I guess old dogs can learn new tricks.:) Thank you for contrbuting so much to the forum.
Larry
 
Another trick it to use a mirror on the flat of the guard so the reflection of the handle is visible in the mirror. If the handle is straight it will show up in the mirror. The mirror trick was taught at Josh's hammer-in by Tim Hancock. It works great for squaring a guard to the blade too.

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Bruce, I don't get how to use of a mirror to check for straight handle/blade and to check for a square guard.

Mike
 
I really like the valve spring trick, I've got all kinds of little pieces of pipe and washers for that but never thought of a valve spring. Probably because all the valve springs laying around here are a way big for that application. I'll have to hunt some down off some little engine.
 
Bruce, I don't get how to use of a mirror to check for straight handle/blade and to check for a square guard.

Mike

Hi Mike, The height gauge is one way, the other way is to place a small mirror flat on the front flat on the guard and look into the mirror reflection. If the handle or blade is crooked it will show easily. The eyeball is an amazing invention of Gods.
I can take a picture if I'm not making sense here, just ask.
Bruce
 
Thanks for the effort of putting this together, Bruce.
I'll be adding it to my Favorites.

Only Hidden Tang I've ever done was a Bark River Settler, and the handle was a 2 piece.
I do have my Smoke Jumper to do, but that, too, will be 2 piece.

Here's the Settler. I wanted there to be more handle to it.
That was also my first attempt at making a guard.

That Settler knife is a real beauty! Thanks for showing it to me.
 
Bruce - Great tutorial! Thank you for making it look so very simple. :eek:

Two Questions:

1) I've been making hidden tang knives almost exclusively and have learned a few of the procedures you show by trial and error. The process you show that I am not able to mimic is milling out the tang slot in the guard. I have no milling capabilities, so I use small files to do the job. I'm getting better, but I still have much room for improvement.

Other than going slow and careful with the files, what tricks have you up your sleeve that might help me get a better/tighter fit from this process?

2) Other than using a ruler to check the straightness of the handle glue-up, what tricks do you have for making sure the blade is square and parallel with the handle block? I often end up with my blade turned a little ****-eyed in the block and that throws off the whole process for there.

Thanks again Bruce.

Yes with slow curing epoxy filled in the handle it can settle during the night and you wake up to a twisted handle. To fix that I use super glue around the joints so it will instantly bonds and holds itself straight all night while it drying.
Another trick is to not shape the handle exact until after the epoxy dries

Hope this helps. Sorry to just now find this question.
 
Bruce

One thing that kinda intrigues me or maybe i missed something

when you dremel the guard??

is there a trick to making it fit with the handle?? err does that make sense?

I cant believe I missed this question too. Sorry,
On this knife I roughed it out on my bandsaw and dremeled it to final size after the handle epoxy is cured. I didnt show any dremel work, sorry, next time.
 
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Thanks a lot, that's one fine tutorial. (that's a fine dog you got there, too!)
 
Bruce,

I cant find the debonder your using on the finish.
Would acetone or alcohol also work as a substitute?
 
Bruce , could you show us a look at one the tangs without the guard on it, then how you mount it.
thanks vern
 
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/QUOTE]

Bruce, been scouring through the archives to get hidden tang construction set into to my brain. Found an old tutorial you put up, which is great by the way.

I got a pattern drawn out, a couple handle material choices, some SS for a guard and spacers,etc. But, could you please tell me what you are using for the black spacers on this knife? You called it "fiber" washers, but not sure what you're using. I'd really like to try and replicate the look of this guard, if you don't mind, at least as close as I can.
 
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100_3432_edited.jpg
/QUOTE]

Bruce, been scouring through the archives to get hidden tang construction set into to my brain. Found an old tutorial you put up, which is great by the way.

I got a pattern drawn out, a couple handle material choices, some SS for a guard and spacers,etc. But, could you please tell me what you are using for the black spacers on this knife? You called it "fiber" washers, but not sure what you're using. I'd really like to try and replicate the look of this guard, if you don't mind, at least as close as I can.

Anthony, its called vulcanized spacer material
I copied this link from here on Bosses site http://usaknifemaker.com/spacer-liner-black.html
 
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