Tutorial Folded stainless steel handle and tang pin balisong

cardoso5fr

Well-Known Member
What you neet

Material
steel for blade
stainless steel plate
2 pivots
4 screw(M3)
2 tang .
4 washer

Tool
To fold a vise, hammer, blade+washer thickness steel place,
To cut hack saw, band saw, angle grinder
To grind file, sandpaper, angle grinder, belt sander, backstand.
To heat treat Blow torch, torch, forge, heat treatment oven, oil or water :D

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To fold the steel, you put the plate in the vise to the folded highness you want. You put the two plier wrench , you fold to more than 90°, after you press the plate in the vise. You use the hammer (on an anvil or something strong) on the U you obtain in order to straighten it with the thickness plate in the u :)


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After the folding

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To the angle grinder i cut the place where the blade will go. more or less 2 cm deep.

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Steel plate, ink, some draw....

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After some bandsaw work.

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It's shaped.

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i clean the part i cut with the angle grinder.

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I draw the middle of the blade

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The scale are in position

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I point the futurs holes.

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3.8mm

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I reamed to 4mm the pivot, the tang place stayed to 3.8mm

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Drilled and reamed

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I point the futurs holes in the handle.

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3,8mm

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Reamed to 4mm

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I build it in order to see where i have to not grind around the pivo
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Draw of the futur handle.

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I cut with the bandwaw.

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It begin to seem to be a balisong

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Open

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I shaped a bit with a 60 grit belt.

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I did the choild with dremel rotary burr.

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Cleaned everything with 240 belt

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My grind plied, (simply O1 hardened pieces with a stainless piece and two rolled pins.)

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60grit

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120 grit

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It's thin before HT

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Lazy fileworked

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Propan torch oil hardening

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Hardened and degreased. (to not too much dirt my belt)

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The grind is white in order to see the color during the flash tempering

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Flash tempering, the point is a bit darker, but it was 4mm too long, the point had been decreased after to go in the handle :). And i temperered generally a bit more the point of the balisong.)

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240 grit

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500 grit

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My poor stencil.

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Electro etching

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I decreased a bit the diameter of the tang in 100c6 hardened.

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Everythin is on the spot, at the right size and polished.

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Tang cup with the rotary burr.

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Open

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I cut the screw and polished the cut.

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The pivot are decreased to the right size.

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Polishing.

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15 parts

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500 grit to create the edge, some buffer to complete the work.

You have a small balisong not too much "bling bling". the aim is to use the same idea of the folded handle that i use to my Cardo No Kami.
It's thin, and cool to flip even if it's a bit short and thin to offer all the possibilty of a full size balisong.

9cm closed, , 3,2 cm widht, 7mm and 1cm to the thickest, open 15,3 cm, 6 cm sharp. XC75 blade full hardened, gold flash tempered. Hardened tang pins. 74g.

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Thanks for taking the time to post this great tutorial. Learned a lot here. Do you hand hammer the tang pins in? If you hand hammer them how do you make sure they go in straight? I've done it this way a few times and every now & then they are slighty crooked.
Mike
 
Yes i hammered then, now i try to make a mushroom head on each side :D. that is not maybe perfectly straight, but as i make the tang cup one by one i can adjust :D
 
Can you elaborate on your hardening & tempering of the blade? From what I've read elsewhere, you heat the blade with the torch till it's cherry red for a minute or two & then immediately dunk it into oil (they said vegetable oil was ok) while swirling the blade. Then they said to heat in an electric oven at 400 F for 2 hours, allow to come to room temp & repeat a second time. Is this accurate?
mike
 
Ben,
Forum says your inbox is full & you cannot get any more PMs until you delete some messages. I am interested in buying the unclaimed bali if it is still available.
Mike
 
Cardoso has developed his own unique "post industrial" style and he sells these bali's pretty much as fast as he can make them.
Nice pictutorial.
t
 
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