Tru oil

Walt2

Well-Known Member
I am wondering if any of you ever use Tru Oil on stabilized scales to prevent fading of the finish from useage, blood etc.? I have used it on non stabilized scales but have never used it on stabilized wood. Any opinions? Thanks for any response.
 
I think it all depends on the specific stabilizing agent(s) that are used on the wood..... I know it works well on stabilized woods from WSSI, and from another private stabilizer that I've used. To keep from sounding like I'm dogging anyone, I won't mention names, but there are several that I've tried it on and the finish came out "muddy" looking, which I believe was a reaction with the stabilizing agent(s) those individuals used. Just a light, single coat, then wipe it dry....kinda like a sealer.

I always use it on synthetic materials like micarta and G10..... as with woods, just a light coat, then wipe it "dry"....it keeps all the body oils and other stuff from staining the handles.
 
I just picked up some Tru Oil yesterday to experiment with. I think Ed may be correct with his application method. I applied some and let it sit for a bit and it got real gummy and had to be sanded and stripped with acetone. I've been using tung oil or Minwax paste on all my wood and micarta up till now.
 
I used to use Tung Oil until my dad knocked over my 10 year old bottle of it and it cracked. I tried some Tru Oil on Micarta, G10 and my laminates and it works great. It works well on non stabilized woods and some stabilized woods. I usually wipe it on with a paper towel, let it sit a few minutes and them wipe the excess off. If I really want something sealed, I will do a couple thicker coats and let harden fully, but it doesn't always work nicely on some woods like Ed said.
 
After re-reading my post, I also wanted to add......when using Tru-oil on non-stabilized woods, the process is a long one for the best results.....you apply, let it sit for just a minute or two, then wipe is "dry" with a paper towel or lint free rag. Let it sit for at least two hours.....go over it with #0000 steel wool (lightly), then apply another coat in the same manner as the first. Depending on the specific wood, things will start to look really nice at between 8-15 coats. It's a long process, but there's nothing else that will give the look you can achieve with Tru-oil.

Tru-Oil should never be allowed to sit on wood in a heavy coat.....all that happens is what camojoe mentioned above.....it will get gummy, sticky, and be a general mess.
 
I use it as well for lots of woods.........in fact that will be finish of choice for some picture frames I am working on. (quilted cherry, leopard, and curly maple). The only issue I have run into is using it on oily woods like African blackwood.... It takes FOREVER to dry, and I believe thats because of the woods oily nature. Otherwise its awesome for stabilized (WSSI/KG) and non stabilized woods.... Larry
 
I certainly agree....Tru-oil SHOULD NOT be used on woods such as African Blackwood, Desert Ironwood, or any of a number of others......many exotic woods are at their best with a very fine finish that has been lightly buffed with something like Pink No-Scratch, and given a good coat of "wax" as the final finish.
 
Just curious if you folks had ever heard this.

Was told once that Tru Oil should be exposed to direct sunlight to harden fully. Person talking to me felt it was the UV in sunlight that help it set.

I have not tried it yet, but next time I use Tru Oil I will, Havnt a clue, just wondering if anyone else had heard that.

God Bless
Mike
 
Ive been useing tru oil for about thirty years or so,refinished a gun stock when I was about 12 years old..like ed says,,long process,,the end finish is worth the work,And does seem to take couple of days to fully harden..You can also buy a sealer ,grain filler ! not as many coats//also use it on my cork handled fishing rods,,works great!
 
Nothing quite like it. But it can take up to a week or 2 for the finish to fully set and cure against marring depending on temperature.
 
When you apply Tru-oil or any of the others that will build up a finish it is best to wipe it down thoroughly as soon as it starts to get a gummy feel.
15 minutes up to a couple hours depending on the weather.
This way you don't get a yucky surface but it can still fill the pores.
If you are somewhere with high humidity you should do it indoors where it is air conditioned. A/C removes humidity from the air.
The use of light application of oil to stabilized wood (my experience is with K&G's) will usually brighten the colors and add depth to the figure.
 
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