Annealing 1095 ???

Lerch

Well-Known Member
Hi guys,

well i was attempting to do a differential heat treated 1095 knife and apparently i got my clay a little to close to the blade edge and the hamon runs way farther down than i want it to, all the way into the edge at a couple points. well i was wanting to anneal the blade and re do my HT, a guy i know told me to heat it to 1400deg and let it cool in the oven overnight. would this work or does there need to be a soak time or a different temperature???


thanks
steve
 
Annealing at that temperature won't erase the quench line, you will have to reaustinize the blade. Like Jason said, just repeat the heat treating this time making sure that the clay is a little farther away from the edge.

Doug
 
So I can take the blade as it sits now and just redo my clay quench as i would do if it were the first time?? i just wanna make sure im reading it right, thats great if i can!!! ya i had read where some different steels re act to the clay quench differently, some form there lines either before, on or after the clay line. well this 1095 really forms its lines a decent ways after the clay line, im gonna have to watch for it more. though some pics of one i didnt screw up so much (but did run the hamon a little to close to the edge) will be coming tomorrow night hopefully!


i just wanna make sure i was reading that right before i try it again

thanks
steve
 
Yes, that is all you need to do. If you wanted to start out with a clean slate, so to speak, you could normalize it one time so everything is the same when you put the clay on the blade but I don't see where that is necessary. Heating the blade as is with the clay on will still austinize the steel. Yes, different alloys will react to clay coating differently. Some will not produce differential hardening with it others will give a different intensity of quench line/hamon.

Doug
 
Last edited:
Agreed. Take it as is, put on a new coat of clay, throw it in the forge, and quench it again.
 
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