Tips and Tricks for hand Sanding.

Rusty McDonald

KNIFE MAKER
A lot of people have problems hand sanding so I thought I'd share some of the tricks I use that I have picked up.

First of all you will not have as much to hand sand if your finish when you heat treat is good. I take my blades down to 400g before I HT but that's just me. Remember the better finish you start with the less you will have to do in the end.

Clamp it down to a solid surface. I put mine on the 2" edge of a 2x6 that is clamped into a vise on my work bench. and clamp the blade to it with a ratchet clamp. Careful of the point it will get you. (ASK ME HOW I KNOW lol)

First of all I use my old Klingspor belts to start off my hand sanding, they are flexible and cloth backed and this makes them durable enough to put a little pressure on but flexible enough to get into the plunge line. I start with 120g and finish with the 220g, Mind you these belts are the old ones I don't use on my grinder any more. I cut them in to about 8" strips.

also when I start to sand I have a brass bar 1.5" x .25 that has leather glued on one side and is brass only on the other side. I start with the brass side for the rough grits and above 220g I use the brass first then the Leather to give it a better finish


I have found by trial and error mostly that going in multiple directions the scratches come out quicker. I try to go diagonally and then strait and finish in one direction from plunge to tip.

Change your sand paper when it gets clogged up! your not helping your self by trying to save a dollar on sand paper use that stuff! And Lubricate the blade I use WD-40 mostly because I like the way it works for me. Some use Windex or Tap magic or water, really anything will work just to keep the paper from clogging up, it's kind of a preference thing. Try any thing as long as you like it and it works for you.

Wipe off he blade regularly the grit under the paper can scratch the blade and make more work than started with.

There will be more when I can remember more hope this helps.

I just remembered I have a piece of micarta with a quarter rounded side and one that i put an angle on to get into tight places like under the ricaso this is one place that is often over looked.

I also have both flourescent and incandescent lights at the sanding area. I frequently check with the hand held flourescent to look for those little scratches. I also check it in day light and regular shop lighting to find those remaining scratches.
--nathan


Just wanted to add to nathan's post, I use an optivisor to examine for scratches between each grit change


From Mike Griffin
A few things I have learned the hard way:
-Use sandpaper like it is free.
-If you want an 800 grit finish, finish the blade to 1500 then make about 10 straight passes with dry 800 changing to fresh paper for every pass.
-Never get lazy and convince yourself that the last little bit of that one scratch will come out with the next grit.
-It just plain takes time.

-Mike
 
Good tips, Rusty. I'll second the fact that a good finish prior to heat treat is very helpful. The fewer deep scratches to remove the better.

Here's my hand sanding rig. It is set up with threaded holes along the length and covered in leather so that the bolts (held secure with stop nuts) can be advanced to push out the leather and support the distal taper of the blade. There are a number of holes along the entire length to support varying lengths of blades. No bounce/flex is a good thing with sanding:

IMG_6489.jpg


IMG_6488.jpg


IMG_6492.jpg


As you can see, I use a piece of angle iron to hold my paper. I have two that I use: a piece of angle iron with a true flat ground on one side, and another piece with leather glued to the angle iron. I start with the plain angle iron in the lower grits, and I finish from 400 and up with the leather backed angle iron.

I also have both flourescent and incandescent lights at the sanding area. I frequently check with the hand held flourescent to look for those little scratches. I also check it in day light and regular shop lighting to find those remaining scratches.

I use a piece of micarta with a small radius on one edge to sand in the plunges, and, I also have a handheld sander that I mounted a piece of micarta to, in place of the plastic platen with edges profiled to match the plunge. I mount this upside down in a vice, turn it on, and use it to sand the plunge as well. Use light hold spray adhesive to mount the paper.

For lubrication, I use honing oil to keep the grit in play longer. I always finish with dry sanding, though. Once you have one side completely done, be sure to tape it up for protection before you flip it over. I use painters tape and keep it in place until I glue up handles. Then I retape the blade to shape the handles.

Hope this helps.

--nathan
 
this is already one of my favourite threads of all time.
Thank you, guys!

In my own very limited experience, I've found that lighting is really super important.
 
A few things I have learned the hard way:
-Use sandpaper like it is free.
-If you want an 800 grit finish, finish the blade to 1500 then make about 10 straight passes with dry 800 changing to fresh paper for every pass.
-Never get lazy and convince yourself that the last little bit of that one scratch will come out with the next grit.
-It just plain takes time.

-Mike
 
I hope you dont mind I have copied and pasted parts of your posts to the top so it is all together and easier to read and go through. And as I remember or find more to put on there I will continue to add to it.

Nathan that's a good idea with the bolts, I just use scrap leather under the tip.
 
I do all my grinding and finishing after HT so for me the most inportant thing is when to leave the grinder...

I usual leave the grinder with a 5x finish, so basically I'm at a mirror when I start the hard stuff...

Dont leave the grinder at 220 grit then start hand sanding at 400 grit! ;)
 
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