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Sounds like Blade doesn't like it when your working and not giving him attention. :9: Glad to hear you're on the mend.

Generally speaking there are two schools of thought on this. One is to use JBWeld. If you ever need to replace the glass, heat it up to about 400 degrees. This will soften up the JBWeld and you can peel the glass off with a putty knife. The other method is to use 3M exterior double sided...

Ammo cans work nicely and they have lids that are sealed so you can keep the oil in them. Check out an army surplus store for one. Its what a lot of guys use. The larger ones will hold about 4 gallons.

Make sure you express the importance of the glass being exactly 2" wide when you explain to the glass shop what your looking for.

I've not used any yet, But I'd read that ironwood can be unpredictable on the inside of a block. I was just wondering how you'd managed to scale 4 knives with such good looking grain. I need more practice before I invest in ironwood scales, I'm looking forward to it.

I believe this is it here: Rotary Cutter

The only thing that I've been hearing from the gun lobbyists is "this won't work because (fill in the blank, we've heard them all) or that won't work because (ditto)". Fine, then tell me what will work? More guns? Guns for everyone and in everyplace? (War Zone mentality). Saying that more...

To take your stance to a logical conclusion, in a war zone everyone has a gun, yet I wouldn't exactly call them a safe place to be. Had the venue at the Florida nightclub had metal detectors at the entrances, much of that carnage may have been avoided. There was nothing that prevented a person...

Thanks Calvin, that would be a great help.

And be especially careful around the tip. :biggrin:

Great looking set of knives. The ironwood has some great looking grain. Did you purchase these as scales or cut them from a block?

I'm guessing that you've primarily used a balled end type cutter to do the jigging? I'm going to have to give this a try in near future...but I think I'll start with some scrap pieces! Great looking knife by the way. I really like the full grind on this one.

Steve, I sympathise with your position but if we look at this in the larger context I think we can come to understand why a venue might choose to do this, especially in Florida given recent events in the state. Its a different world that we live in, and its certainly everyone's right to protest...

There you have it...If Mr. Long says this is the style sheath you should have, you can take that to the bank! And Paul, I just recently purchased all three of your DVD's and have to say that without them I would be years behind the learning curve when it comes to making a passable knife sheath...

Here's a shot of 5 Paul Long custom knife sheaths for inspiration that another poster put on this site some time ago. I especially like the single strap over the guard as opposed to a strap that wraps around the entire knife. Also notice the use of studs instead of snaps, something I would...

Maple is not a particularly oily wood and would take stabilization. Is it absolutely necessary to stabilize maple...no, it falls into the category of 'should be' stabilized. If its spalted, or burl the I would personally stabilize it for sure. If its run of the mill...then its your choice...

A picture of the knife would be very helpful. Have you considered a sheath that would hold the knife horizontally as opposed to vertical? A sheath can even be made to hold the knife either way so that you can develop a preference. I personally like large knives held horizontally on my belt...

Denatured alcohol is your friend when cleaning up uncured epoxy.

Another possibility is if the local community college has a CNC program you could ask if they might have a student mill it down for you.

Thanks Matt. That makes sense. And here I thought I was getting a little something extra for nothing. :rolleyes: