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Thanks for the info guys. I think I need to go back to basics, I'll check everything you said doug and give it another go with a fresh batch of steel Ian

can anyone tell me why my blades are bendining during heat treat. I'm using 4mm O1, the blade is a bushcraft design with a scandi grind, i'm using a propane forge, heating to non magnetic and soaking for 10 min, I quench in veg oil. I heat the blade forward of the handle and quench point...

Hi guys thanks for the info, I tried the WD 40 and it works great, I also tried thin machine oil and liquid metal polish all with good results. regards Ian

I've just started working some G10 scales in hunter orange, as I go up the grit grey marks are starting to appear on the scales from the pins and stainless bolster. can anyone give me advice on how to keep my scales clean. regards Ian

little field knife I just finished for a friend Blade is O1 3 3/4" long by 1 1/8" wide and 1/8" thick the handle is 4" long with hunter orange G10 scales 1/4" mosaic pins & 3/8" mosaic lanyard tube

when I had a ready supply of O1 plate I would make a blank that would be ready for heat treatment, if I liked the feel and shape, this would then become my template, I now use 1/8 tufnol or MDF Ian

little necker in O1 with african blackwood scales backed with red fibre liners & 1/8" mosaic pins, blade 3" with a polished finish & handle 3 1/4" Regards Ian

O1 bushcrafter with a polished finish Blade is 4 1/4" long x 1 1/8" wide with a flat scandi grind Handle is 4 1/2" with Yew scales backed with black fibre liners & 1/4" mosaic pins & 3/8"mosaic lanyard tube Regards Ian

Hi guys, great forum. I'm Ian I'm a hobby maker and collector from the UK