"Setting the edge"

DLBrothers

DLBrothers

Well-Known Member
As a survey- how do you fine gentlemen "set the edge" on a completed knife?

I normally take the grind down to finished thickness after hardening (thickness depending on intended use) and then use a 2" 220 grit to grind in the edge, move to a 400 to more finely hone it, then go to the hand stones - diamond and Arkansas finally to sharpen.

I have tried a Lansky - once - WAAAAY to time consuming for my impatience to tolerate. Im sure there are better / different ways out there, as I'm sure I might even be able to learn a few..... What ya'll doing in this stage?

Thanks-
 
I set my angle and go to an edge on a 6x48 horizonal sander using a worn 100 grit belt. I sand against the belt direction. Once I have the edge, I go to the fine red stone on the Norton Tri stone sharpener. Then to a medium Arkansas, then I use a barbers strop with green chrome rouge on it. Done.
 
I set the edge quickly on a 120 grit belt, then finish it by hand on diamond hones, a medium natural stone and a strop. I don't like letting the edge touch the belt grinder once it is down to zero. More and more often I quit the grinder a little before zero and take the last little bit down on 120 grit paper backed by granite.
 
I use my variable speed Bader B111 to fully sharpen all my knives, with the speed on 10% and new belts. I have a fixture that bolts on my combination tool arm that allows me to keep the exact angle that I want on the blade. I start with 120 grit and go to 220 grit, then to 600 grit, and finish with a felt polishing belt loaded with green compound. This method gives a hair popping edge. I would not recomend this if you do not have a variable speed grinder, it would be very easy to over heat the edge with a high speed grinder.
here is a pic of my setup in use.
100_2243.jpg
 
JW - that contraption looks like the cat's meow! I gotta come up with some way to adapt that idea to my KMG.... with your permission of course :)
 
I just set the angle on my KMG rotary platen and grind away. Just keep the blade face perpendicular to the ground on each pass. I go 120 grit till I get a burr. Then 100 micron, 45 micron, 16 micron, 5 micron, and lastly a leather belt with green rougue.
-John
 
John Barker said:
I just set the angle on my KMG rotary platen and grind away. Just keep the blade face perpendicular to the ground on each pass. I go 120 grit till I get a burr. Then 100 micron, 45 micron, 16 micron, 5 micron, and lastly a leather belt with green rougue.
-John
Click to expand...

John - that sounds like that would give you a convex edge- is that correct and what your looking for? A friend of mine has a rotary platen and best I can remember, it is sorta like 4 different slack belt areas. just trying to get that picture in my mind....
 
DLBrothers said:
John - that sounds like that would give you a convex edge- is that correct and what your looking for? A friend of mine has a rotary platen and best I can remember, it is sorta like 4 different slack belt areas. just trying to get that picture in my mind....
Click to expand...

Depends on how tight the belt is. BTW, convex edges are very sharp and strong.
-John
 
franklin, I think it would work for a scandi grind, but for a full flat grind the blade clamp would get in the way, maybe attach to the tang would work.
DLBrothers, no permission needed, but you sure have it, if it would help anyone out, go for it. Dale
 
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