Purple Heart ?

Keith Willis

Well-Known Member
I found some Purple Heart,that I was able to swap for.This will be the first I have ever used.
My question is how do you guys finish this stuff?
Thanks for the help.
I wet this piece.What do yall think

God bless,Keith
 
I have not used it on a knife yet so I have never had any stabilized. I have made some keepsake boxes, pens and other things. I have finished it all sorts of oils and hard finishes but the best thing about purple heart is the fact that you can use a heat gun to change the color! The hotter it gets the darker the purple, you can go almost to a black if you like. This is great for highlighting edges and things like that. Most wood will darken with heat but this stuff really pops. I don't know if that helps but that is what I know.
 
I have used purpleheart on one knife, and I used a heat gun to darken it up. I didn't have the wood stabilized (don't know how well it stabilizes as it's a pretty oily wood), and I finished it to a medium-high grit by hand (600 or so) and then used danish oil. Apply multiple coats allowing it to soak into the wood until it stops taking it in. It turned out pretty well.

Here's the knife. It's ATS35 with purpleheart and white liners:

IMG_7386.jpg


IMG_7388.jpg


The white liners work very well with this wood.

A word of caution: Don't get carried away with the heat gun. Remember that the tang of the knife and the pins will conduct heat VERY well. So while the wood is barely warm, the tang can be very hot. I found this out after getting carried away and then burning my hand when I shifted the knife. The heat also caused the epoxy to let go, and I had to remount the handle scales. Go slowly and in very short bouts until you get where you want. Check the heat in the tang/pins often with a bare hand, and stop when it gets warm. You may be able to get a similar effect at a low heat in the oven (125F??) for a little longer time without ruining the epoxy bond.

When you cut into or grind on the wood, it will be a lighter color. If you don't color it, that's no problem. It will eventually darken up with exposure to air and light.

--nathan
 
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Thanks guys,that helps a lot.Did not know that about the heat.

Hey Nathan,really like that knife,and the Purple Heart looks good.I have never thought I would like white for a liner,but from what I can see,that does look good,I'll be trying it.
Thanks again for the help.

God bless,Keith
 
Keith if I am remembering right purpleheart doesn't have to be stabilized. I have always just sanded it down and then buffed it out.
 
Nathan,

I like the knife, and I agree the white liners look good. I have some white spacer material I've been waiting to try out. Now I have an idea how it will look.
 
This is the only knife I've used white spacers on to this point. In my mind, it takes the right combo of handle material and spacer to make it work. This knife was for my sister, and it looked really nice on this small EDC with the purpleheart.

Glad you guys like the knife. Thanks!

--nathan
 
Nathan is SO right about tangs and pins conducting and holding heat. I have ruined scales of different materials, because in final shaping I ground the handle too fast and the heat in the steel/brass/etc. scorched the micarta/wood/whatever around the pins. Looks really ugly :( He's also right that too much heat will melt or weaken epoxies.

G10 in particular gets downright hideous when over-heated. It can de-lam and blacken horribly. Be gentle.

Take your time when you get close to finished shape and let it cool down BEFORE it gets hot to the touch, no matter what handle material you're working with.
 
Sorry guys,this is the first time my computer has been on since 5:30 AM yesterday

Hey James,the first time I used SS Colby bolts I was making a knife for my brother.I was using some Walnut,and as you said,I got it to hot.It left two almost perfect dark rings around each pin.It really looked good,although I try not to let it get that hot anymore.

God bless,Keith
 
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