10xx vs. O1

Sean Cochran

Well-Known Member
What are some of your thoughts. I use mainly 1084 and 1095 because the HT is fairly simple, but I see alot of knives made from O1. What is advantage of using O1? I know the HT is a little more involved, I am building a new forge and plan to make it PID and solenoid controlled so I can get consistent temp control. Should I start using O1? Why or why not?

Thanks for all the help. This is a great forum.
 
I was in the same boat about 10 years ago, and I switched to O-1 and havn't looked back since. From my observations O-1 rates 10-15% better at cutting and edgeholding when properly heat treated. A little bit of tungsten goes along way. I made a knife for my father, who is a professional whitetail guide, and he had a busy season a few years back. He field dressed 6 bucks all over 200lbs in one day, without sharpening in between. He brought me the knife and I touched it up, just a few strokes and it was sharp again. A few days later he had a customer who shot 2 bucks, but only wanted the hides and the antlers. My dad took the same knife and field dressed, caped and completely deboned both deer. The knife just need a bit a touching up.
After that, I was sold completely, when customers ask me about edgeholding I ask them if they would be happy if they could field dress thier deer without sharpening, most respond with a yes and then I tell them about my dad.
That particular knife was O-1, L-6 and pure nickel. It also is the answer to those who have doubts about using pure nickel in a working knife.
 
I have little crap knife (not a mistype) that was one of my early attempts made from O-1. I use it for cutting my leather while making sheaths and in almost 3 years haven't sharpened it once.
 
I'm working on a Lil push dagger in O1. It grinds like butter when annealed and gets hard as wood peckers lips when quenched, don't do anything with it until you temper. I've broken 2 already messing around before temper I dropped one and put the other in a vise for some reason and snapped the tang off.
 
1095 has a certain peculiarity in that when you temper it at 325 F exactly, you get high hardness and peak toughness.

I think O1 is probably easier to HT than 1095 just because 1095 has the short nose that you can quench it in. aside from that small difference, I believe they are pretty much the same HT.
 
I still use L6 and 1095 some times. However I have been using O1 for most of my knives for many years. I, like others have stated have had customers report skinning multi deer before needing to retouch the blade. That in it's self is good enough for me. I want my knives to be used, if it won't perform, it won't be used. It ends up in a drawer somewere.
I do like to use L6 and 1095 for larger camper/chopers. Something you can touch-up with a file when needed.
 
I have used O1 a lot and have it in my personal huntingknife. It stays sharp i am easy dress a deer with out sharpening so i am very satisfyed with it and its very nice to HT.

Seved
 
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