Recent content by Taz575

It can get hot enough to forge weld. It may be hard to keep moving a heavy canister or large billet through the coils to get it hot enough though? You may need to insulate the coils, not sure what will happen if you bump them with the metal billet? One of my buddies forge has one and they use...

Glad you are keeping it and got it figured out!!

I clogged a 40 grit AO belt on Desert ironwood pretty quick yesterday, but a 40 grit Zirc Oxide belt at a little slower speed worked great! Maybe I gotta slow down when grinding the ironwood. I gotta find my Iwasaki Carvers files...

Took a piece of my 16 layer billet and forged it out. This was the end cut and was around 1.3" thick, 1.7" wide and around 1.4" long at the longest, but the length was rounded out due to being the end of the billet. I tig welded (poorly!) a handle onto the chunk, but it only held for a few...

I used to use the Iwasaki Carving Files. They work very fast and shave off material as opposed to gouging it off, so it leaves a MUCH smoother finish without the deep marks of a rasp and doesn't tear out at the edges as much. The Shinto saw file is one I haven't tried yet, but may get one for...

Got a few done and others almost done! 225mm 80CRV2 gyuto from 1/8" barstock, full height convex grind and laminated wood and old Ivory paper micarta. Customer wanted his Hawaiian middle name in katakana (Japanese script for western words) on the blade, too. Guy wanted a knife for a RMEF...

Got to use my buddies press last weekend! 16 layers of 1084 and 15N20, stretched out to around 13", but went too aggressive on the last inch at the tip, so I will cut that off. Going to grind it clean, cut into thirds, restack and draw out 2 more times hopefully! The press isn't as easy to...

Some guys make a v swage from angle iron and hammer into it as they rotate to help pack it down. I picked up a half round swage bar but havent gotten to use it yet.

Working on these 2 in 5/32" 52100. Upswept blade has White G10 guard, liners and pin and Blue G10 liner and Blue Ameragrip handles. Hunter has a 4" drop point with canvas micarta with black pins, liners and lanyard tubing.

I've seen micarta that has tiny air bubbles. They collect sanding dust/polishing residue and really stand out. If you wipe down with denatured alcohol and try to "wash" the pits out, it may blend better coloring wise? Or try the CA glue in them, but that will leave those spots as shinier than...

Spent the majority of my 2 days off doing some heat treating! Did 3 52100 blades; 2 of my basic 4" drop point and one that will be an upswept blade like a Marbles Woodcraft for a 40th RMEF dinner prize. Used 5/32" 52100 stock. HT recipe was the Knifesteelnerds from Larrin; 1700 30 min, air...

Made a little fixed blade very close to the benchmade bugout! 80CRV2 steel that I heat treated to 62, OD green canvas micarta handles, black pins and black micarta lanyard tube. Working on this one with grey/black G10 camo handle scales, white pins, black lanyard tube and a roughly 3" 80CRV2...

Played around with the finish on the Magnacut gyuto. I had read about doing a faux kasumi finish with 220 grit SIC sandpaper on a foam or leather backer whileo using 220 grit SIC powder mixed with mineral oil on the blade and tried it on some differentially heat treated blades. It gives a...

Just curious if you ever figured this out? With the San Mai and Cu Mai type stuff, I wonder if the layer of the softer metal throws off the indenter by cushioning it, even if you ground a spot to the 80CRV2 core.

Got Covid 2 weekends ago, but am finally back at it! Worked on a 240mm Magnacut gyuto from 3/32" thick, 64 HRC barstock. Did the 36" radius grind on the upper 2/3 and the lower 1/3 is a laser convex grind. Edge was .14mm/.006" before sharpening :) Working on the profile and blade finish: