It's hard to tell in the picture but I was using my knife to cut deer meet and then I washed it off and dried it. I forgot to oil It so when I checked it today to see how bad it rusted it formed a blue tent across it and did not rust at all. How could this of happened.
Aelgin those aren't gaps it's were metal fillings from sanding stain the wood black. Do you know how to prevent that in the future. Also nit pick as much as you want I'm taking notes for the next one
I agree in the vine. It didn't seem to be that thick before the handles were put on. Yes that is brass liners it actually came out perfectly balanced. I think it's because I made the blade to big for the handle
You might be right it did harden but not like I think it should of. I'm going to finish it and see how it performs. Next knife I make will be out of known metal.
I used a old farriers rasp so I'm thinking 1095 or w2. I just got over my fear of water quenching and tried that and now the file skates over every thing but edge
I just heat treated my knife and it came out soft. I quenched in 130 degree canola oil. It was non magenetic but I think it got to hot. Is there Any way to save it
Guar dog how many times do you temper? I was thinking about 375 just to retain extra hardness. Any advice is helpfull in only on my second knife so I have a lot to learn. If I decide to start selling I definitely will take the time to get parks 50 but for now to keep it simple and easy I'm gonna...
Thanks for the info those are the first facts I have seen on canola, maybe the one against it are using thicker blades. What is your temper cycle you use.
I haven't tried canola yet there is a lot of controversy on weather it works or not. I have use transmission fluid and it did not come out very hard. What do you temper at when using canola oil.
Honestly I probably is a dumb idea. I was just trying to find something faster than canola and easier to obtain than parks 50. I'm sure it's best to stick with what's known but you'll never find anything new if you never try.