Recent content by James Perrin

Kurt is dead on with his recipe. I use the same recipe with the same results. Had a 63 HRC blade get caught by the buffer and thrown across the shop with no ill effects, which is what made me love the toughness of AEB-L. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Looks like spalted oak burl too me. Nice find. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

He is probably talking about another knife made from stock he has bought recently, not the old saw blades he uses. Great work on knife wall e. Keep it up. As far as annealing and rehardening M2, I don't suggest it. It can be a real pain, and hardening temp is 2100-2200 for most HSS. Sent...

Okie, if you ever come down to Edmond/OKC area, send me a pm and you are welcome to use some of my tools. Grinder, furnace, carbide bits, ect. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The elements are embedded to help with radiant heat from the coils. They act like a baffle. I use stainless sheet in my setup for the same purpose, and it works just as well. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You don't need to use foil for stress relief. The layer of scale that build up is minimal. I do the full 2 hours for stress relief. You may not need the full 2 hours, but I see no reason to cut it short to experiment with it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It is just scale from the heat treatment. The reason for the sanded part was to get a hardness test. I normally sand to 400 grit before heat treatment and start back at 220 when finishing the hardened steel. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You could always just build one if you felt like fooling with it. Doing the wiring isn't that tough, finding good sources for the materials can be a challenge, but can be worth it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What you are referring to with the O1 is just scale, soak in vinegar or a pickling solution removes it. I use a product called ATP 641, and have no scale unless I don't coat it properly. It is available at Brownells and through ATP. A2 is a bit more resistant to corrosion, but a lot of the...

I would go with O1 for carbon/tool steel. It is easy to work with and performs very well. It is also one of the more economic steels to work with. For stainless, I use AEB-L. You simply can't beat it in bang for your buck. If brought to an acute edge to take advantage of it's stability, it...

Overheating quench oil causes oxidation. Most commercial quench oils use additives to slow this process, but it will happen over a period of use. The general rule is no more than one pound of metal per gallon of oil. Edge quenching causes severe overheating because you are reducing the...

Best way to think of it is cost. If it warps, it will cost you the time to fix it. If the heat treatment doesn't turn out how you like it, it will cost you time and will double your cost to retreat it. Enco has foil for about 1.25 per square foot with free shipping right now. (120 for 50' x 20"...

I normally heat treat D2 according to the Carpenter data sheet. Place blade in furnace at 1850 Equalize Soak 25 minutes (30 minutes covers both) Plate quench Cold treatment Temper between 400-500 depending on the hardness I'm after. I normally get 62 at 400 and 59 at 500 give or take .5...

Myrtle/bay laurel actually makes a pretty good handle. It is pretty durable from what I have seen. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I normally buy bowl blanks and cut the scales myself. Doing this, I have some really nice burl scales that only cost me about $3 a set. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk