Friction Folders

C Craft

Well-Known Member
I am trying to nail down a guide for the pivot and stop pin on a friction folder. First of all let me say I have made a friction folder before but it had no closed stop pin as when it closed the blade was against the antler.

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Have you ever started a blade that you thought you liked the design and then couldn’t bring yourself to finish it? This is that knife for me!

The one in the bottom of this pic. I haven’t been able to finish it because after I got it this far I don’t like the looks of it!

onthebench002.jpg


So I have decided that it would look good as a friction folder. But try as I might I can’t seem to get the pivot point Vs the stop pin right! When I get it where it will work as in these pics . The pivot and the stop are too close. I can’t seem to leave enough meat at the pivot once I cut for clearance on the stop pin.

This show the stop pin in the open position using approx. a 1/8” stop pin.

FrictionFolder002.jpg


This show the stop pin in the closed position.

FrictionFolder005.jpg


The problem is the pivot right now is a paper clip when I enlarge the hole for the pivot pin there is going to be little to no meat left around the pivot pin on the outside of the circle.
I have tried moving the pivot and the stop every where I can think of and nothing seems to work.

Anyone want to share a pattern for the pivot Vs stop pin that can be adapted to any shape of knife?

Or is it possible to have a universal pattern for any shape of knife?

Any advice or help here on figuring out the pivot pin Vs the stop pin, would be greatly appreciated before I pull out all of my hair trying to get (what seems like it should be a relatively easy solution) worked out! So far I am missing something as too how to locate the pivot and stop and leave some meat at the outside (for lack of a better term) of pivot circle.
 
Guys I am not looking for anyone to give up trade secrets, just a little assistance on locating of the stop pin and the pivot pin.

I am not sure maybe it's not possible on a narrow blade but, I feel like in my gut I just haven't hit the right combination yet. Although I have tried moving both the pivot and the stop pin every way I can think of! I don't want the cut for the stop pin to be exposed once the knife is assembled and if I get the area around the pivot pin where there is still plenty of meat left,................ then I end up with the stop pin cut out being exposed somewhere as the blade rotates.

I know this could be easily remedied by making the handle wider at the pivot end but I want to use the handle I have already got fashioned laying next to the knife in the picture. So far trying to locate the pins correctly seems to be an exercise in futility and frustration!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I was just hoping some one had a pattern or a formula that they used when doing friction folders. I think a lot if not all of the older friction folders probably didn't have a stop pin. It opened against the handle and closed against the handle!

I have an urge to build something a little more modern than the 18th century style, to salvage the knife I am going to use in the picture!

It will have a spine made of metal so the blade can't close against it. The more modern friction folders I see being made have a much wider blade than the knife in my pic. Maybe that is why they can seem to incorporate the stop pin and still leave enough meat around the pivot, too be able too not worry about compromising strength!

Anyway I have not given up on this idea as of yet and still have some more hair left so guess I will work on it more today. At least I still have plenty cardboard to make patterns out of!
 
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It looks like you're on the right track. I like to use mylar instead of paper. Mylar is clear and can be drawn on with a pencil and erased a hundred times until the pins are are in the perfect locations. Mommas sewing pin for the pivot. After the mylar templete glue it to tin or thin stainless as a template for the blade and liners. Drill 1/16" holes for the pivot and stop pins. It will be a universal pattern, the handle shape doesnt matter, if you have a standard pin placement it can be used on any shape handle.

There is a small inexpensive book out called "Antlers and Iron" I loaned it out and never saw it again or you could borrow it. Its a great How to book on the Mountain Man style friction folder.

Oh also I've found that every project has its "ugly duck" stage so dont quit in the middle, it will look good when its finished.
 
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Thanks for the encouraging word Bruce!

After several Google searches and turning up nothing I decided to start going back the pages under the search buried on page 3 of one of my searches I found this. :happy: It is pretty neat and along the lines of what Bruce was talking about!

http://coustil.free.fr/atelier_bidulepliant_gb.html

I got to make me up one of these it would be useful on any type of folder by just taking into account what you are working on!

I also found this. Maybe I have been over thinking this.

http://coustil.free.fr/coutel_montage_gb.html

In the third pic down he shows a stop nail/ stop pin. He does not have the blade notched for it too work against the stop. I can't wait now till I can build the board from the previous post to be able to play around with this idea!
 
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Not to go off topic here.
Bruce, The Ugly Duck stage is the perfect name for that not quite sure how it's going to come out period that I also go through on any first time project and even many of my knives I've been making for years! LOL.

Laurence

www.rhinoknives.com/
 
CC, I hope you get your location issues figured out soon. The only trick i have found, is to use a washer with 1/8" hole (or whatever your pivot diameter is). Put the washer over your template and you can easily trace the round edge, letting you know the limits of your pin placement.

As for the Ugly Duck stage... I always call that the Banana Bread Stage. Have you ever watched someone make banana bread? Gross. but the outcome? Wonderful! :)
 
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