Need help! Scandi confused!

bootstrap

Well-Known Member
This maybe the dumbest question out there, but confusion has set in, and I don't like it :confused2:

How far do do take a scandi grind before heat treat? I know with other grinds you take it down to certain point before HT, and after you sharpen with the second bevel. With scandi grinds only having one bevel, how do you ensure it doesn't warp?

Thanks,

Will
 
First of all, I think warping due to the edge being thin is overblown. I've had to go back and reheat treat blades that I've put an edge on because they were too soft and I haven't had one warp on me yet. What is more important is not getting the steel too hot. I've done that on blades that were taken down to about the thickness of a dime and had the them come out of the quench looking like a potato chip. That doesn't mean that you can't take the edge down to around the thickness of a dime, heat treat, and then finish the blade by bringing the primary bevel down to an edge instead of establishing a secondary bevel.

Doug
 
Thanks for the reply Doug. I am just fascinated by scandi grinds for there function within bushcraft. I am planning to try a couple of these and see how they come out.

thanks again,

Austin
 
What Doug say's.
Heat is the enemy. I work with stainless and have done nothing more than profile grind with a 45 degree bevel on the edge and then HT. Doing all the work no matter the grinds after it's Heat treated. Grind, Dunk, Wipe, Grind, Dunk, Wipe!

Laurence

www.rhinoknives.com
 
I take the scandi/saber bevel down to just shy of a dime thickness before heat treat and final bevel it after the blade is heat treated. Keep the blade cool after heat treat and grind away.

Jeff
 
Much depends on the steel, and the equiptment you have. I take 01 to about .015 before HT, and seldom have any more warp than I can hand straighten easily right out of the quench.
 
Back
Top