What type of wax for scales?

martinjj

Well-Known Member
I read a lot of people put wax on the scales to finish them, what wax is this? we are not talking about buffing compound are we? Thanks.

Martin
 
If I put wax on my scales, I rely on Renaissance Wax. It's a good general use product that works well on a number of products.

Doug
 
Thats a good question ! I have been wondering the same thing. So far I have been using green and white buffing compound for polishing. I then follow up with a metal polish such as MAAS on the blade.
 
There are many. Ren Wax is great but expensive. I have used Auto Polish Wax. Birch Casey makes a Rifle & Gun Wax that works great too!
At shows I buff up the steel and handles with the Rifle and Gun Wax for finger prints from prospective buyers.
It makes them Bright & shiny and SALE!

Laurence

www.rhinoknives.com/
 
One question, a million answers. :biggrin:

I have used Ren Wax almost exclusively in the past but have began using a home brew made of carnauba, paraffin and mineral spirits that works well. The only down side to it, is that you have to get mix pretty hot for it to work properly since Carnauba wax has such a high melting point. When I make the mix, I cool it small square containers that give it an easy to manage shape. I apply the wax to a polishing wheel and go to work.
 
Been using ren-wax for about 5 years, just finished up my first can and need to buy another one.
Love this stuff.
CW
 
I've tried MANY different types over the years. I dislike Ren Wax because IF you get a fingerprint in the wax when applying...and it dries, it's nearly impossible to "buff" out that fingerprint. I refuse to use any wax that contains silicone, because IF there is any moisture present, a silicone wax will trap the moisture under the wax, and you will get a rust/tarnish spot in short order (on any steel/material that will rust).

Johnson's paste wax works well, and so does Briwax.....but my preferred is Mother's Caranuba Cleaner/Wax.
 
When I posted this I had Johnson's past wax in mind. I am glade to see it mentioned a few times, think I will give it shot.

Ed Caffrey thanks for the silicone tip, would never have given it a thought.

Thanks all!

Martin
 
I usually use Briwax, but it includes a solvent that I think detracts from building a thicker wax finish with more applications that will "fill" grain.

I used African Leadwood for scales on a few knives. It has good color and figures well but has small open veins. I was thinking of melting some bee's wax and coating the scales, then heating the wax until it wicks into the veins to fill them. Anyone tried that before?

Jay
 
I would discourage heating the wood enough to "melt" wax into it......most of the time doing so creates various unforeseen problems....the least of which is the "wax" sticking out like a sore thumb when it cools/hardens.... a simple, single coat, put on just like you would on your vehicle generally works the best. If you was to "build up" something, I would say go with Tru-Oil.....but be careful what wood(s) you apply it to.
 
Well good point, Ed! I'd forgotten that heat and thin wood don't go well together and would most likely warp the scales. Maybe I'll try it on some scrap wood the way you would "hot wax" a sheath, enough heat to melt the wax but not enough to damage the leather.
 
African Blackwood, Desert Ironwood, Kingwood, Cocobolo, or most other woods that do not have at least some slight porosity. For a lack of a better way to say it, Tru-Oil should be used only on those woods where the base coat can "soak" in a little bit and give the remaining coats something to "grip". Apply Tru-Oil to woods that don't present that characteristic means it will either not dry, or if it does it will easily "peel".
 
Mr. Caffrey, a few years back I made a batch of razor scales from Cocobolo burl and Rosewood burl... in my sophomoric wisdom, tru-oil seemed like such a good idea. As you've said, it does not work and yields only an ungodly flaky and or tacky mess. :biggrin:
 
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