Removing scales from a production knife

knifecarver

Well-Known Member
I'm thinking about buying Case, Buck etc. knifes with composition handles (less expensive), removing the scales and putting my own on. I'm sure I'd have no problem cutting and fitting the scales, I just don't know how to remove & replace the pins. I'm talking about folders, although fixed blades should be the same process. If I just had some KNIFE MAKERS to work with (Hint, Hint) I wouldn't have to do this. Any help would be appreciated.

Cathy
 
Grind away my Dear!
Really Cathy there are a few ways to get scales and pins off a knife.

I Grind or use hand files, Then a Heat Gun To loosen the epoxy, sometimes Freezing and a smack with a hammer will do it once you have taken the pin tops off.

In case you don't know? Most of the brass & Nickel silver pins on the case and other knives are lightly tapped with a hammer or pressed to mushroom a little to keep the scales on along with a epoxy.

Buy some old junker condition Case or other knives broken blades etc...at flea markets etc.. that are made the same and practice taking off the scales on a few. over time you will develop a set of steps like.

1)hand File off the peened pin ends.
2) focus Heat gun on the knife for ?? time to loosen any epoxy.
3) Carefully work a flat screw driver that you have tapered the head down on, Under the scales and pry them off.
4) Stubborn scales get soaked in Acetone to dissolve the epoxy. ( Do this outside)
That's just a for instance.

You will find what works for you!
Then you will need to buy a Drill bit & pin stock of dimensions that fit to peen/Epoxy on a new set of scales.

Cheers.
Laurence

www.rhinoknives.com/
 
I am no expert on folders, I have made a few kits, and just recently finished my first complete build of a folder. But I do have a few tips.

The one pin on folders that will be a little difficult, is the one in the center along the bottom edge, that is the spring pivot pin, and it has some pressure on it from the spring, so you will need to hold against the spring, to relieve the pressure, so this pin can be replaced. A vice will work for this along with a piece of hard wood or brass stock the same thickness, or just slightly thinnner than the spring is. After removing the old scales, just get it all lined up in the vice, and squeeze it slightly, and remove the old pin, and replace with your new one. When peening this pin, be very careful not to over do it on fragile scales, being so close to the edge, it can crack easily. One way to eliminate that problem, is to countersink the holes in the liners, and peen that pin to the liners, and sand it flat and put the scales over it, this may not work on very thin liners though.
Hope this helps,
Dale
 
I need pictures. Sounds complicated and I have questions. Are there any tutorials? or Books? Thanks Laurence and Dale for answering.

Cathy
 
What I've done in the past is take a small center punch and punch a divot in the pins, then I take a drill bit slightly smaller than the pins and start drilling. The peened area can also be drilled out with a larger bit after you drill your smaller hole if need be.

At this point, the scales can usually be pried open/off very easily, and the pins pushed out of the other side.

As for replacing the pins, you'll want to use the old scales for a template to locate your holes, drill them according to your new pin stock, which should be the same as the old, and then you may want to take a small reamer to taper your pin holes. This will allow the pins to fill the holes a little better when you peen them, and when you grind them flush they'll hold the scales a little better. Also, as already stated, you'll need some way to compress the back spring when putting things back together.

Do yourself a favor, go on ebay, and buy a few old slipjoints of different patterns, sizes, and configurations. You can find plenty with broken blades or scales for a couple of dollars, and use these as learners on how exactly scales and bolsters were installed, and how the over all knives were put together.
 
If it has corbys or loveless bolts you'll have to drill them out first. And Just put it in a pan with boiling water for a few minutes.
 
Cathy,
I know you will be at NCCA this weekend. I only do fixed blades but will be happy to talk to you. I am sure we can find a couple of makers who do folders also who can help you out . I am not going to set up until Saturday morning but we should be able to get together during the show.

Kevin
 
I wish I could go to the NCCA this weekend :( Too busy with stuff going on at work and the shop and Fish and Game Club Derby to help out with.

Kevin, where in CT are you?? I'm in East Hampton!
 
I got to try this in inadvertently today. I got one of the Knife Kits Damascus lockbacks with damascus bolsters. I was in a rush and peened the pins together to assemble the knife and since the scales/bolster were screwed on, I figured I could fit them later. You have to peen the pins over before the handle scales go on because they aren't full length pins like I usually do. Well, I forgot to drill the holes first :( So basically I had an assembled knife with no bolsters or scales, like if you were to remove the scales to re do them. What a PITA!!! I was able to make a working knife out of it, but it was way more time/effort/headaches that it would have been if I thought it through and not as nice as it could have been. I think you are better off customizing some of the kits out there instead or building one from scratch.
 
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