grizzly
- Thread starter roesso
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Mike Martinez
Well-Known Member
Sampson knifeworks
Well-Known Member
Anybody Know what the durometer is on these wheels and the arbor hole size? They seem way to cheap to be true. If they run smooth "balanced" and have a durometer around 70, I would snag one of these !
Thanks,
Clint
Thanks,
Clint
NJStricker
Well-Known Member
I seem to remember that the hole is a metric size, a little larger than a half inch. Bruce Culbertson built a Goddard-style grinder a couple of years back using one of these. He used the arbour that BossDog sells, but had to have a machine shop add a sleeve to take up the gap. He said it performed well for him, but most of his grinding is on the platen or slack belt, he hadn't done much in the way of hollow grinds. The hole is not threaded nor does it have a keyway, by the way.
rhinoknives
Well-Known Member
My Motto in buying knife making equipment is, Only Cry Once! Save $$ and get the machine or part you will never regret.
check out http://www.contactrubber.com/contact-wheels.asp Many of the knife Grinder builders & knife supply houses stock & use these. from this company.
Tell them exactly what you want.
Laurence
www.rhinoknives.com/
C Craft
Well-Known Member
The Grizzly 10" doesn't come with pockets for the bearings to be pressed into. That is one reason it is cheaper!
However a good quality machine shop, (not your average automotive shop) can mill the pockets and press them in for you. Be sure to install a top of the line bearing, don't go cheap their either, the China stuff doesn't cut it. Have the shop run the wheel after milling and pressing in the bearing. My wheel required nothing else but I have heard of them needing to be re-balanced but I think that is the unusual as they are balanced from the factory and if milled properly it should not effect that! But like anything else once it has been modified Grizzly won't take it back for being out of balance that one is on you!
As for the hole size the bearing you press in will take care of that to make it a true 1/2". Don't know the exact durometer but it works well whatever it is!
I love mine and the guy that did the bearing pockets and pressing them was reasonable. Cost me like $35.00 which don't even amount to the minimum I was quoted by another shop$75.00 pr./hr. I have had to replace the bearings as the first ones where cheap and didn't last too long. Oh, one other thing don't over-tighten when installing, I think that may have contributed to killing the bearings the first time!
However a good quality machine shop, (not your average automotive shop) can mill the pockets and press them in for you. Be sure to install a top of the line bearing, don't go cheap their either, the China stuff doesn't cut it. Have the shop run the wheel after milling and pressing in the bearing. My wheel required nothing else but I have heard of them needing to be re-balanced but I think that is the unusual as they are balanced from the factory and if milled properly it should not effect that! But like anything else once it has been modified Grizzly won't take it back for being out of balance that one is on you!
As for the hole size the bearing you press in will take care of that to make it a true 1/2". Don't know the exact durometer but it works well whatever it is!
I love mine and the guy that did the bearing pockets and pressing them was reasonable. Cost me like $35.00 which don't even amount to the minimum I was quoted by another shop$75.00 pr./hr. I have had to replace the bearings as the first ones where cheap and didn't last too long. Oh, one other thing don't over-tighten when installing, I think that may have contributed to killing the bearings the first time!
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Don't know what durometer it is but you can press your thumb nail into it and it has some give, it's softer than my 8" Bader wheel. The center hole is .750, hub is 2-1/2" and hub thickness is 1-5/8+/-. Plenty for setting bearings. I bought it for my home built grinder but I mounted it right out of the box on the Grizzly and it ran true. You'll see balancing holes drilled into the wheel. Just had to true up the edges with some 36 grit paper and get the edges unbumpy. Even though I have a mill, I had my buddy who owns a machine shop do the bearing pockets on a lathe. It works fine. I'm thinking on ordering a couple more just to have them....Gri zzly is going to catch on sooner or later.
Rudy
Rudy
Sampson knifeworks
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the info guy's !!
Clint
Clint
NJStricker
Well-Known Member
By the time you buy the Grizzly wheel, pay for shipping, have a shop check to see if it's balanced, have the center milled out, buy quality bearings and have them installed you'll likely wish you had gone a different route.
Some makers have had good success with wheels from Sunray. They build wheels for a variety of applications, and about 5 or 6 years ago some makers started looking at them for a less expensive alternative for contact wheels. You can specify the dimensions and durometer you want, and if you talk to them directly and tell what you want it for they should fix you up. I've heard they'll even crown the wheel. They can make wheels with bearings or keyed for a drive wheel. They have a $100 minimum order now, but an 8 or 10 inch wheel will get you over that easily without breaking the bank.
Some makers have had good success with wheels from Sunray. They build wheels for a variety of applications, and about 5 or 6 years ago some makers started looking at them for a less expensive alternative for contact wheels. You can specify the dimensions and durometer you want, and if you talk to them directly and tell what you want it for they should fix you up. I've heard they'll even crown the wheel. They can make wheels with bearings or keyed for a drive wheel. They have a $100 minimum order now, but an 8 or 10 inch wheel will get you over that easily without breaking the bank.