Made my first batch of Micarta......

martinjj

Well-Known Member
Well my first two batches!!! I took a few pair of blue Jeans that don't fit any more and cut them about two inches wide and 6 inches and 8 inches long. What a mess, even got the wife to help me out!! One batch is from a dark pair of blue jeans and second batch is layered dark and faded blue jean. Cant wait for tomorrow to see how they turned out!!
Martin
 
That is interesting. I did not realize micarta could be homemade. How about sharing your process?

Be sure to show us the results.

Ken h
 
Hey Ken is real simple to do.

What you need.
1. Wood to clamp it down. I used 3 pieces of 3/4" plywood 4" wide by 12" long. I took two pieces and screwed them together making an L shape, that way you get a back rest when putting your layers down.
2. A couple of medium to large C-clamps.
3. I used Tin foil and some butcher paper, all you really need is some wax paper.
4. Box of disposable plastic gloves.
5. Fiberglass Resin and hardener. I used Bondo's it already comes with the hardener.
6. Blue Jeans cut to 2" wide and 8" long
7. Couple of chip brushes



Place paper on to the wood.
Mix Resin.
Place first strip of blue jean on wood.
Apply resin with brush, get it completely saturated.
Place second strip of blue jean down and brush resin on.
Repeat until you have reached desired thickness.
Pull wax paper over top of the stack of blue jeans.
Place 3rd piece of wood on to stack of blue jeans and clamp down.
You will have resin being squeezed out, so do it over a large piece cardboard.
Let sit over night.
first knife 101.jpgfirst knife 104.jpgfirst knife 110.jpgfirst knife 115.jpgfirst knife 114.jpgfirst knife 119.jpg
 
Well I'll be! I did not realize micarta was that easy made! Polyester resin would cure fast, but I quit using that stuff many years ago - I like epoxy better. That would make a tough handle material for sure. I will look into micarta for handles.

BTW, who is that skillful man helping you (I'm sure you have camera?) {grinning}

Martin, I thank you for the good tutorial. BTW, have you posted this in the tutorial section? If not, you should.

Ken H>
 
Ken I like epoxy better to but this was more of an experiment than any thing!! I have never worked with Micarta and wanted to try it out and also keep the cost down. I can be cheap sometimes!!

The skillful man in the photo is a paid model I flew in just for the photo shoot!!!!!!!!

I believe there is a tutorial on making Micarta already I just threw the photo's in to help out on what I did. I know it always helps me when I can see it being done. Plus I tend to take alot of photo's of my projects. I like to send them to my grandfather, he gets a kick out them. Makes him feel like he back out in his shop tinkering, He getting bit old to do to much. You can also look on youtube, there are a few vids there to.

Well here are some picks of the Micarta after I cleaned them up a bit. There is a small piece I did a quick sand and polish on. I like it! I am making a set of scales for that smaller knife right now. I will post some picks of in the next few days.

Thanks for looking!!

making micarta 027.jpgmaking micarta 030.jpgmaking micarta 031.jpgmaking micarta 032.jpgmaking micarta 033.jpg
 
Thanks Steven, that is where I got the idea but could not remember where I got from!

Martin
 
I've done a few batches using MAS Epoxy. Its nice and thin, wets out very quickly and no odors!!!! 100% solids, no VOC's.

OFNfillet2.jpg

CamoGut.jpg

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It gets addicting! I have another 3 sets to do up this week.
 
Taz, how do you get that rag micarta look? (the camo scales)?

When I make my camo scales, I just layer tan canvas or cottom fabric with olive drab canvas or cotton. I use to buy all my "material" at Goodwill in the form of old pants. But now I've discovered Hobby Lobby. They have a ton of different fabrics and they have them on sale regularly. Plus they have a 40% off coupon every week you can print off from your computer or just show them on your smart phone.
 
My first batch of mircarta was a failure !!!!!!!!!! I learned the hard way not to skimp on the resin. I was proud of my first batch, glued it to the knife and started to shape. Dang, I was all most finished when it started to unrival:12: . But I learned a hard lesson, Can't say this enough "don't skimp on the resin":mad:
You can get Bondo resin at Walmart for under $14.00 . Home depot, Lowes and everywhere starts at $20.00.
I get a lot of material from Swapmeets. A pair of used jeans $1.00 most of the time.
 
Epoxy sure has increased in price since the last I purchased a few yr back. I just checked raka.com - which used to be one of the better (cheaper) places around to buy epoxy. Now 1-1/2 qt will be $35 plus shipping! That would make a LOT of handles and epoxy is good for a LOT of things.

Taz - those handles sure look good. total knife in fact look like what I dream of making someday. Gives me ideas for micarta.

Ken H>
 
I took some Lighter Green Denim, some darker green linen, khaki color twill (thinner than denim, thicker than the thin linen) and some brown denim. I added some orange denim and orange linen to the mix to make up the one with the orange in it. I found that the linen keeps its color better than the Denim; the Denim really darkens quite a bit once the epoxy hits it and soaks into it. I have some thicker channel molds I made up that are around 6x11"; I tried 5x9" bread pans, but the bottoms dimpled and crushed in from the clamps.

Pic of the bits all chopped up and ready for the epoxy. This next batch will have even smaller bits to it.
Epoxytime.jpg


The epoxy I use (MAS Epoxy Low Viscosity Resin and Fast or Slow Hardener) is around $170 for 1.5 gallons (1 gal resin, 1/2 gal hardener). I use around 10-15oz of epoxy per batch, so it's not exactly cheap, but not having any odors and how quickly is wets out the fabric are big pluses!!

These blades are all kits; the Guthook is called the Santa Fe at some places IIRC. Texas Knife, Jantz and Knifekits.com all have it I believe.
 
Hi Taz575 that is sweet looking Micarta you make can you maybe make a short TUT with pics to show how you use these bits and pieces, I have seen the normal Tutorials on how to use the lengths of cloth like MartinJJ use but this is something else:confused2:!!

Sorry MartinJJ if i Hi-jacked you’re Thread :oops: it will give me a different view on micarta!!

Thanx Martin Schutte
 
I don't feel you Hi-jacked the thread, I would also love to see how Taz575 does it, I am always looking to learn!!!

Martin
 
My method is pretty messy!! I will try to do up a tutorial for you guys if I can get someone to man the camera/vid camera!

If you guys want to do this type of handle material, get a rotary cutter for fabrics!!!!! It's like a small pizza wheel with a razor sharp edge on it and they are replaceable. I can cut out strips very easily with one, or roll it back and forth like crazy to make little bits and pieces for the camo stuff. Doesn't hurt your thumb and very easy to do!

Verbal Tutorial:

Select the fabric colors you want to use. Cotton Fabrics work well. Linen holds it colors better than the thicker Denim does. Wet a piece of the fabric to see what it will look like when it's wetted be the epoxy, this will be the end color you will see in the material. Chop the fabric you want to use into little bits. Too big and they roll over in the mold and sometimes you get epoxy blobs between the layers. Make more than you think you will need since the fabric will compress!!! I get my mold and line it with plastic and wax paper. I try to find a plastic bag big enough to put the whole mold in. This helps with any overflow so the material can't get stuck to the mold. My mold is open ended, so I duct tape a short piece of wood or something over the ends so I can get an idea of thickness and to keep the material from squeezing out when I clamp the heck out of it. By using a short piece, around 1/2" or so, the epoxy can still ooze up and out, but the fabric stays in place better. By taping it, I can cut the tape and knock the piece out to make it easier to release the material once it's cured.

Last time I sprayed the plastic with PAM, but I will probably skip this step; I didn't have any issues with it, but am concerned if the PAM will get onto some other pieces and prevent a full bond. Better safe than sorry!! I get a 9x11 low tin foil tray to pour my epoxy out on to (trick from building fishing rods; epoxy makes a thin layer, bubbles release quicker and the tin foil helps pull the heat away, slowing the cure time a bit). I grab handfuls of the material, toss it in the tray and mush it around until it's fully soaked. I let it sit a little bit to absorb more epoxy and make sure it's all wetted out with the epoxy; the pieces will change color so you can tell when this happens. I take the fabric and kinda clump it up in my hands and pack it into the mold, starting at one end and working my way down. I make sure it's nice and solid and try not to have any low areas or areas with little fabric. I keep adding more epoxy and fabric to the foil tray and packing the material into the mold. Add more than you think you will need because it does squeeze down a good bit! I try to get around 3/8"-1/2" slabs when it's cured. Once I have the fabric wetted out fully and pressed into the mold, I will push down with my hands to make sure it's thick enough in the pan and I don't feel any low spots or spots with too little fabric. When it's ready to clamp, I put my top board down, which is wrapped in wax paper and plastic and push down leading my weight on it (I weigh 300#), then remove the board and make sure I have the right thickness to the piece. I put another layer of wax paper or plastic over the fabric in the mold and then I put the board back in place and start C Clamping the heck out of it!! The other layer of plastic/wax paper will help when the epoxy oozes out so that it doesn't get near the clamps too much; it gives it a place to go. I will usually clamp at the corners and work in, then go back and tighten everything down fully. I get the big XL or XXL Ziplock bags from the Grocery Store, the ones people use for packing clothing in luggage. I put my molds in the big plastic bag to contain any fumes and bring it inside and put the bag near the stove for extra heat to cure quicker. Once it's set, I remove it from the bag and then unmold it, then put back in the bag near the stove. The MAS Epoxy takes a little while to fully cure and the extra heat helps it. Don't try to work it before it's fully hard; it's a PITA to sand and stuff once it's fully cured! If you work it when it's not fully cured, it can be kinda gummy and fuzzy fabric pieces will go all over.
 
Thanks Taz575. could you post a few pics of your mold? Your patterns are so unique and impressive THANK YOU very much for sharing!! I expect you will be seeing some of us posting pics with your style of Micarta on are own blades. Again Thank you, you could have easily kept it your own little secret!!!!!

Martin
 
I will get some pics tomorrow, but the mold looks like this from the end: \____/ It's 11ga steel maybe, around 1/8" thick. I cut down some thick plywood for the top, but I want to get metal plates for it.

I watched all of the Youtube tutorials I could find and on the web, I saw one where a guy used some 2" wide channel, wetted out random sized and colored strips and packed them into the mold randomly, then pressed them in to cure. I had some issues with the longer pieces (voids in the material where there were big epoxy blobs), so I tried using little bits. I was looking for a pattern like the old Rag Micarta. I saw some pics of Butch Harners Mycarta I believe it's called and liked how it looked, so I tried to figure it out!
 
I did 2 batches on Weds. One is the camo and I used 4 layers of dark green on the bottom to act as an integral liner. I found out that the epoxy does stick to ZipLock bags though, so I gotta sand the plastic off :( But I did find that Parchment Paper works wonderfully at not sticking!!!! Much better than wax paper, leaves a clean smooth surface and doesn't wrinkle up as much. The second batch was a 3x10 piece of 4 layers of black bottom weight material, followed by 2 of the dark green, then alternating black/green. The stacked layers are so much easier :) I'll try to get the mold pics today.
 
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