Martin, "stabilizing," is a very broad term. Lets start with the lower end... some folks will soak their wood in a mason jar (filled with Minwax wood hardener) hooked into a food saver and call it stabilizing. Though, to some extent, punky wood will be denser and less prone to crumbling but it is a far cry from what K&G, Woodlab, WSSI, Moore and other top service providers will do. Their process would be more of a plasticizing than stabilizing as the finished product behaves more like an acrylic or other plastic than wood.
If its something you want to do to the degree that the aforementioned professional companies do, it will be costly and will yield more heartache than good results. The chemicals used are expensive as is the equipment and there is also the issue of safety. I've read many accounts where people have tried to make their own vacuum chambers only to have them rupture and cause adverse conditions in your shop.
Long story short, not every wood needs to be stabilized. Typically the denser and oilier the wood, the more stable it tends to be. And those that aren't so dense and oily will typically do well when seasoned properly. At the end of the spectrum, there are those woods that are only available due to modern techniques and would never be suitable under any other conditions , this being your spalted, and fast growth woods. If you decide to do it on your own, read as much as possible on the subject and be safe while putting your ideas into practice. In the end it ends up being a bit more practical and cheaper just to send your stuff out to the professionals.
Regards,
Mike