Corby Bolts?

theWeatherman

Well-Known Member
I bought some Corby Bolts from Jantz and I don't know if I have a problem or not. The male end does not thread all the way into the female end. Because of this I am unsure on how to countersink the whole on my scales correctly.

What can you guys tell me about how to use Corby bolts and how to know the correct counter sink depth? Plus whats the deal with the bolts not threading all the way, I have 8 of them and they all do it? Can I shorten the threads?

I forgot to add, that the scales are 3/8" thick and the tang is 5/32" thick.
 
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I countersink at least half way through my scales.. if that helps.. some times if its a thicker blade and scales I will have to countersink past half way just to get a few threads on the pieces.. assuring that I have enough of a mechanical connection. it is possible to countersink the pieces to deeply and then not have enough threads to get a good cinch.. dont ask me how I know this.. lolol

Hope this helps, Have fun.
Randy
 
I guess I could just test it but it really bothers me that the bolts don't screw all the way together, they just stop.
 
Hmm, You can sand the threaded side down to adjust it to your needs.. Most of the corby style bolts I have used thread into each other all the way to the bottom. Have extra threaded side can be adjusted pretty easily by sanding away till you get it to the length you need. :)
 
If that is all the farther that the two halves will screw in then there is something wrong with the bolts. I ran downstars to the basement to make sure and with both sets of mine the sleeve on the female side will screw all the way up to the shoulder on the male side. I would contact Jantz about returning defective merchandise. Things sometimes happen in manufacturing that shouldn't. It looks like the female side of the bolt was not drilled out deep enough.

Doug
 
I use the Loveless type bolts and I learned along time ago to have a Tap & Die that match the bolt & Nuts, 3/38" I think it is?

Don't know the size of Corby's?

Anyway, The maker supply place you purchased the Corby's from or head to a local hardware store and the the pair of em.

Sometimes there are burrs in or on the threading that need to be cleaned out!

That may be your problem?

Good Luck!

Laurence
www.rhinoknives.com/
 
I have had poorly machined Corby bolts from different suppliers, looking at yours, they need to be returned ! I am very positive that Jantz supply will correct the problem and make things right. On another note; I get all my Corby bolt supplies from POP'S, James makes them himself and is very consistent with size and quality and sells the counter bores too !
Better luck,
Clint
 
Just an FYI, I got my Corby's from Tracy and they came in their package screwed together so defects like that would have been sportted before shipping.

Doug
 
I presume that it's not that you have lots of threaded bar in there?

Perhaps check the hole size using a toothpick down it.

How much depth screwing together do you get?
 
I agree there is a issue with this bolt, and It should thread all the way down to the shoulders. as most do. I would contact Jants either way and have them send me a new one as well.

That said, When I make a knife using Cobys, the threads are not bottoming out.. And as long as there are a few threads into the one side.. and still enough room to tighten it down properly, as well as the heads are deep enough into the handle material to shape the handle without it becoming a issue. You should still be able to use this bolt without worry of it becoming a problem.
 
I called Jantz and they said they were made this way and they aren't suppose to meet. I am going to return them because they are to wide for me to use on my materials.

Thanks for all you help guys.
 
Remind me to never get my Corby bolts from Jantz. Go to Tracy's store, USA Knife Maker Supply and get them from him. His do touch at the shoulder. You might want to take a look at the Acorn bolts that Jantz carries though. You can adjust the bolt the screws into both end pieces.

Doug
 
I dont' think I will be ordering from Jantz again. I am thinking about just using 1/8" stainless steel rod for my "pines" The epoxy is really strong, saves money as well. Just frustrated with the bolts.
 
The other great thing about the Loveless Type bolts is you can get longer Screws if you really have a thick handle for a big knife project.!

Remember to order the step drill from who ever you get them from. I get from K & G Supply and I can't remember if Jantz has them? I know most of the supply houses do!
Good Luck!

Laurence

www.rhinoknives.com/
 
You will probably do just as well with straight pins. They won't give the mechanical hold that the bolts or rivets will give but, from everything that I've read from experienced makers on the subject the main problem with scakes popping loose is from shear force as occures from a blow to the edge of the scales. If you have ever temporarily glued scale or bolster blanks down for shaping you would know that a sharp blow to the edge of the material will usually pop them right off. Pins will reinforce against that.

Doug
 
Doug, I was told the exact same thing! The only thing that leaves me with a question is that I have my tangs pre drilled to a 1/4" for my corby bolts. If I go to pins now then the hole would be to big. Any suggestions?
 
Yes, get some 1/4" pin stock. All the hardware stores in my area that I've visited carry brass are carbon steel rod in that size or you could order some if you don't want those materials. The only thing is that you may need to ream the pin holes out a couple of thousandths of an inch but dry fit the pin stock first, just to make sure. The holes need to be just slightly larger than pin stock. For most of the 1/4" pin stock that I have that means using a 6.4mm bit. The one exception that I have is 1/4" copper rod. It's slightly undersized and fits snug with with a 1/4" bit. It's a good idea to measure your pin stock with a micrometer. If you don't have one, I found one at Lowes that measures in metric, decimal, and fractions of an inch for less less than $20. It's a great tool to have around.

Doug
 
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