How To Make Damascus "Pop"!??

DonL

Well-Known Member
I'm finishing up a blade made from Alabama Damascus steel and I'm wondering what a good method is to use to make the pattern really pop? I've heard several techniques including bluing the blade then lightly sanding with something like 2000 grit sandpaper or doing 5 - 1 minute etchings and then lightly sand with 1500 grit between etchings.

Just wondering what you fellas that handle damascus on a regular basis do to make those patterns really jump out?
 
Hello, I use Alabama Damascus quite frequently along with many others. I use a 50/50 mix of vinegar & ferric chloride. I like a deep etch, so I soak my blades for over an hour sometimes, etching speed depends on temperature. My shop is usually on the cool side, sixty degree's. After the first soak I will neutralize the blade, dry and lightly sand the surface with 1200-2000 grit. I like to do this twice to get the best results for me with the high contrast I like. Also make sure you do not contaminate your etching solution, clean blades with alcohol each time and wear rubber gloves, even a fingerprint can contaminate your ferric chloride. This way works for me and I am sure other folks have different opinions. P.S. I have used cold bluing after the etch to make things darker or Brownell's baking lacquer, followed by a light sanding. See how the double etch works before trying the other stuff.
Sincerely,
Clint
 
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I have used Brad's damascus on a few knives, and actually just made a small blade from it a few weeks ago that etched nice and dark and really quite quickly.

My process is very similar to most, I sand my blades to at least 600g B4 etching often to 1000g or more. I think hand sanding over machine sanding gives a cleaner looking etch. Clean the blade good like Clint mentioned. Then dip it into a 50/50 solution of Ferric and distilled water. The temp. of the enchant and your steel will change soak times and results. 70+ degrees seems to work best.

When I get the desired etch, I neutralize with baking soda and water and rinse well. then dry the blade and lightly sand the highs with 1000G paper.. Then I either oil or wax the blade.

I can usually get a nice Poppin etch on my blades..
 
Thanks guys! I was a bit impatient, so I tried it per the instructions that came with the billet. I kept getting a "cloudy" appearance after neutralizing with Windex, drying and using WD-40 for a finishing oil. So I contacted Alabama Damascus and asked what they would recommend and Lacy replied to etch, rinse with warm water and baking soda, dry quickly and coat with Strike Hold. Well, there's no place around me that has Strike Hold so I used Break Free. It came out great! I loved the contrast.

I will try Clint's and Randy's techniques on my next Damascus blades. BTW, this is the first time I've seen temperature mentioned when talking about etchant. Thanks guys for passing that along!

Apparently the WD-40 strips carbon or oxidation off of the metal. (Sorry, can't recall Lacy's response off the top of my head!) I'd asked about Rem Oil and he said it would do the same thing and really recommended that I get some Strike Hold. So I ordered some online so I'll have some the next time. He didn't know whether or not Break Free would do the same thing, so I experimented a bit and it looks like it did well!
 
Rem Oil and most aerosol type gun oils have high contents of detergents in them. This makes it more efficient when removing carbon from dirty guns, unfortunately it also removes contrast on dammy etch. This may be contributing to the cloudy look. I dont think WD40 contains detergent but it is mostly fish oil and isn't a good choice for Damascus in my experience.

Etch and clean til dry using any of the above methods then coat with Johnsons Paste wax or Renasance wax available from Tracy.

Steve
 
I usually etch in 50/50 ferric chloride and water for 15 minutes then remove the blade and wash it off in cold water. If I want the pattern deeper, I repeat. I usually do this 3-4 times. After rinsing the blade the last time, I boil the blade in water and baking soda for five minutes. This sets the oxides. Then I rinse and dry the blade and oil with gun oil (not aerosol) and let is set over night. Next day wipe off the excess oil, sand lightly with 1200 grit and wax.
Kevin
 
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