Corby bolt problem.

Tod Lowe

Well-Known Member
Knives.jpgSup guys.
This is my second time using Corby Bolts. The first time no problems and then this time it appears I ground off to much creating the holes you see in the pic. :34:
Anybody have a fix for this ?
 
I may not have the best answer,and I'm sure it wont be the answer you were looking for.
I have done it a few times,and all I could do is drill it out,and hope to save the scales,which I dont thinkI ever did.

If you have enough thickness left on your scales,you may take a Dremel,and cut a slot for a screwdriver.

Well after typing this I looked at the pic,I probably wouldn't do anything.I really dont look that bad in the pic.
Nice knife,BTW

God bless,Keith
 
Yessir - drill it out and epoxy in a faux bolt or grind off the scales and start over.

I usually leave about 1/16" of material for the shoulder - that seemed to help quite a bit after I did the same thing multiple times.

BC
 
It is a nice knife. And I have done the same thing, but I dont know of any fix options other than what has been stated.

Respectfully
Bill
 
I would consider one of two options:

Drill the existing corbies out and counter sink scales more, or shorten ends of corbies before replacing

Drill out and just replace with a straight pin epoxied into place
 
This happened tp me once and I left the corbys in and drilled the peek-a-boo holes out to 1/8" dia. without going too deep and pounded in an 1/8" dia. brass pin (or SS to match corby) and sanded it off flush and it was virtually invisible. A liitle epoxy would help too..

Just dont drill too deeply as to destroy the threads and it will hold up well.

If you want to get real fancy you can also drill a hole on the other side and put a contrasting pin (brass with SS or vice versa) in to look like a Loveless style bolt.

Regards,
Steve
 
To go with what Steve is already saying... Since the handle is already black, what about a center section of 1/8" CF rod epoxied in place, then sanded...
 
Good call, Brad...My local hobby shop also has fiber optic plastic rods in flourescent red and green, could be cool.
Todd, this is a great chance to exercise your artistic license.

Lets see your fix and we all will learn something here.

Steve
 
This happend to me once, I drilled to 1/8" and put some mosaic pins in there, then drilled out the other side and did the same thing.
 
Thanks for the advice guys.
Unfortunately I was on night shift last night and didnt wait on the replies.:34:
I took the knife down to the shop and tried to put a small tack weld on each Bolt with stainless wire.
I figured I would burn some of the G10 in the process but thought I could just grind off the burnt part. The heat in the pins ended up burning about a 1/8 inch ring in the g10 around the pins all the way to the tang.:sad: Im going to have to grind the scales all the way off and start over.
And g10 smoke is actually orange when its burning.:eek:
LESSON LEARNED I hope.
 
Yessir - drill it out and epoxy in a faux bolt or grind off the scales and start over.

I usually leave about 1/16" of material for the shoulder - that seemed to help quite a bit after I did the same thing multiple times.

BC

Man that seems to be cutting it close Bill. 1/16 is not much wiggle room. I dont think im that good. Do you use a counter bore or a stop of some kind on the bit?
BTW This handle texture style is just a variation of how you taught me how to do it when I asked you a while back. You probably dont even remember telling me lol. Thanks for the tips brother!
 
Man that seems to be cutting it close Bill. 1/16 is not much wiggle room. I dont think im that good. Do you use a counter bore or a stop of some kind on the bit?
BTW This handle texture style is just a variation of how you taught me how to do it when I asked you a while back. You probably dont even remember telling me lol. Thanks for the tips brother!

I do remember that conversation!

No stop used - just a step drill and check your depth frequently. I rarely have a problem once they're sunk that deep.

:)

Good looking knife!
 
I countersink to about 1/16" or so as well, and the easiest way I've found to do it with my 7/32 corbies with 5/16 heads is to drill my 7/32 pilot hole first, and then use a depth stop on my drill press for the 5/16" hole.
For that, it's just a matter of eyeballing the end of my drill bit next to the piece of handle scale that I have on my table.

I've been thinking about getting one of those fancy smancy corby drill bits that various knife suppliers sell, but I just haven't gotten around to it.
 
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